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Posted: 8/12/2007 7:03:26 AM EST
Anyone out there running this setup?  I am looking at converting my RRA with 16" SS barrel to a RECCE.  I don't have all of the tools to remove the FH and FSB then reinstall the Low profile gas blocks.  I was going to dremel to FSB but not sure if it will clear the inside of either of these FF rails.  I know some shaping of the FSB wil be required but i just want to make sure that the height and width where the gas tube is will work. TIA for any help.
Link Posted: 8/12/2007 7:15:21 AM EST
[#1]
I've done it for my Troy rail, however a lot of material has to be taken away for it to work.  It took me a while of working with a dremel tool to get it down to where it will clear.  Don't worry it'll work it's just the harder way to do it and all I can say is where a mask unless you like the taste of burnt metal shavings.  In the Build It Yourself forum there's a sticky on how to install free float rails, FH's, etc...about 3/4 of the way down the page is a how to on doing a cut down FSB.  That is about the contour you're going to need to clear under a Troy FF rail.
Link Posted: 8/12/2007 7:20:55 AM EST
[#2]
I've done it too.  I used a Sawzall for the tower, and a Dremel cutting wheel for the bayonet lug.  That takes about ten minutes.

I then cleaned up the cuts with a 120 grit sanding disk on a 1/4" die grinder. That takes another 5 minutes.  The corners on the tower cuts need to be rounded down the sides of the FSB or they will hit the rail.

After cleaning up the cuts I cold-blued the exposed metal and then painted the entire FSB with high-temp engine block paint.





Link Posted: 8/12/2007 7:23:10 AM EST
[#3]
Yeah, I think the MI rail has more space underneath for the gas block.  I needed to dremel a lot more material away for it to fit properly.
Link Posted: 8/12/2007 7:27:27 AM EST
[#4]
Thanks for the info guys!  Glock, Yours is MI right?  Great pics too.  that is Exactly what I needed to see.
Link Posted: 8/12/2007 7:37:04 AM EST
[#5]
Here's pics of the Troy Rail for comparison:



Link Posted: 8/12/2007 8:03:09 AM EST
[#6]
Which model MI rail is that?
Link Posted: 8/12/2007 8:38:45 AM EST
[#7]
Yes, it is a Midwest Industries rail.

It is the MI #22, which is rifle length
Link Posted: 8/13/2007 12:58:41 PM EST
[#8]
Removal of the FSB is not hard at all. Hammer, punchs, soft block and maybe an action block to help brake loose the FS. Thats the good thing about working with ARs is the tools are cheap and you can get them almost anywhere. This isnt true with some other rifles like the AK for example. Tap the Taper Pins Left to right and reinstall right to left. I did the same mod to a pistol barrel, with the FSB off you wont risk sanding or painting the barrel, that would look sloppy.
Link Posted: 8/13/2007 4:14:36 PM EST
[#9]
It's not always that easy, after the efforts of three people with hammers and punches, the pins in my FSB just wouldn't budge.  Before the question is asked, yes, we were trying to push them out in the right direction, they just wouldn't move, so I decided to just cut the FSB down instead.
Link Posted: 8/13/2007 4:17:51 PM EST
[#10]
Have you thought about sending the upper out to Adco or Jtac to have them remove the FSB and install a gas block?
Link Posted: 8/13/2007 4:34:51 PM EST
[#11]

Quoted:
Have you thought about sending the upper out to Adco or Jtac to have them remove the FSB and install a gas block?

Why would anybody want to pay good money so they could give up a secure, pinned gas block for a set screw block that can come loose?
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