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Posted: 11/2/2009 6:29:41 PM EST
I am having trouble getting the castle nut removed from a stock 6920. I couldn't help but notice that the piece in front of the nut appears to be staked to the castle nut. Is there any trick to it's removal?


Thanks.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 6:35:35 PM EST
Are you using a stock wrench to take it off? If not, you might want to consider it.

if the staking is too deep to get it off with some wrist-power, you can use a punch to knock the staking back out. There MAY also be locktite on the nut. In that case, a heat gun, or some indirect attention from a torch can help free things up as well.

If all else fails, a good old-fashioned pipe wrench will get it off of there, but the castle nut will be toast, and will require replacement.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 7:46:26 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/2/2009 7:52:53 PM EST by Reloading]
If loctited it may require 400 - 450 deg. of heat to break it loose, you can use the oven. But watch out for the kitchen BITCH they snap too.

Look at the threads to see if you see a blue or red coating. If it is blue this is good. If it is red this will be hell to remove. Red is high-strength and made to never take it a part again. Red should never be used on a gun in my opinion.

BE VERY CAREFUL THAT YOU DO NOT SNAP OFF THIS AREA OF THE RECEIVER This is a weak point.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 8:40:26 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/2/2009 8:40:44 PM EST by SSeric02]
If it's a factory stock Colt, there is no threadlocker on the nut or receiver extension/lower receiver threads. Use a punch to back off the staking a little, and try lightly tapping your castle nut wrench with light hammer to break the staking off the end plate and it'll come loose. Just keep in mind the staking may get pushed inward as the nut turns and be careful pulling the end plate off the extension so you don't bugger the extension threads up.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 2:18:38 AM EST
Originally Posted By wrenchmonkey:
Are you using a stock wrench to take it off? If not, you might want to consider it.

if the staking is too deep to get it off with some wrist-power, you can use a punch to knock the staking back out. There MAY also be locktite on the nut. In that case, a heat gun, or some indirect attention from a torch can help free things up as well.

If all else fails, a good old-fashioned pipe wrench will get it off of there, but the castle nut will be toast, and will require replacement.


Mine gets some dig marks, but I can live with that.

Link Posted: 11/3/2009 8:15:54 AM EST
I had a castle nut put on with red loctite on a lower i got from R-Guns. My suggestion as others have suggested is to first remove the staking to eliminate that, use the correct wrench, and if that sucker will still not move, remove the stock, the buffer, & the buffer spring & then heat it up with a propane torch. dont be gentle with that propane, you are not gonna hurt the tube, nut or lower. just afterwards dont quench it, let it cool on its own. get a couple of mommas potholders by the way to save your hide. did it to mine, no problem, woks good with frozen brake slide pins too even though the west virginia flame wrench works better for that
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