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Posted: 4/16/2008 4:09:01 AM EST
[Last Edit: 4/16/2008 4:21:56 AM EST by 12_gauge]
Well, the other day I noticed a speckle of rust in the "pre-chamber" (area where the locking lugs rotate) in my Sabre upper. Upon inspecting the other rifles in the closet, I found that the bushmaster also exibited a splotch or two. Mind you these are minor, unimportant, and not on a load-bearing surface, but still, I am a fanatic about details, so I applied some blue/rust remover and a bit of polishing compound and the spots are now gone.

Upon mentioning this to my Dad (it's amazing how much your Dad learns from the time you were 18 to the time you are in your 20's. Blew me away what he learned in a half a decade!!!) He mentioned trying some cold-bluing...what if I blued this area with Superblue (just over the counter treatment.)?

Would it prevent/slow any form of corrosion? Well, I am going to get 2 nails, blue one, and not the other, and see if it matters, or is just for looks.

I think that CLP alone will prevent this problem in the future (The sabre was shipped DRY, and the bushmaster was pre-owned and it came to me with a few other issues, so I am betting CLP/lube/PM wasn't on it's former owners "to do" list).

However, one can never stack the odds too much in their favor, and let's face it, I am all about personalizing/modifying/bettering. If a little cold-blue will better it, I am all for it.

My only question/reservation is this: If I get any of the cold-blue solution on the anodized aluminum or the chrome chamber-lining, it won't have any adverse reaction, will it?

Anyways, before doing this, I will test it on 2 nails and see if it even matters. I know the difference will be minimal, if any, but if there IS a difference, I think it would be a fun project. Maybe something to go along with painting the "safe" "fire" with red and white.

Link Posted: 4/16/2008 12:54:32 PM EST
Cold blue will not prevent corrosion. Now that you have the area free from rust, keep it lubed up with CLP or LP to prevent it from happening again.

Pull your weapons periodically and inspect them. The Army recommends periodic 3-month inspections for weapons placed in storage. Start out with a 3-month interval and see if that’s enough.

Field strip the rifle, do a basic visual inspection, and wipe things down with a light coat of CLP before reassembly and storage.

Link Posted: 4/16/2008 2:28:04 PM EST

Originally Posted By QUIB:
Cold blue will not prevent corrosion. Now that you have the area free from rust, keep it lubed up with CLP or LP to prevent it from happening again.

Pull your weapons periodically and inspect them. The Army recommends periodic 3-month inspections for weapons placed in storage. Start out with a 3-month interval and see if that’s enough.

Field strip the rifle, do a basic visual inspection, and wipe things down with a light coat of CLP before reassembly and storage.

img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/humidity.jpg


Thanks QUIB! Now that that area has had rust on it before, is it more prone to rusting than if it had not in the first place, or do I need not keep an eye on it any more than I would a part that had not rusted?

Before reading this I blued the chamber of the DPMS/Oly mutt we have. The blue only took to the "shiny" or scratched areas. I will skip repeating it as it is a waste of time imho and according to you. I still plan on rust-testing a couple of nails with it though, just for the sheer curiosity of the matter.
Link Posted: 4/16/2008 3:25:49 PM EST

Originally Posted By 12_gauge:
Now that that area has had rust on it before, is it more prone to rusting than if it had not in the first place, or do I need not keep an eye on it any more than I would a part that had not rusted?


If you removed all the surface rust, and there is no pitting for corrosion to hide in, then I would think you should be good-to-go.

My XD9, even though I wipe it down regularly, developed a spec of rust on the fwd portion of the slide. No bigger than the head of a pin, I removed it with CLP, rags and a GI tooth brush. Now during wipe downs I pay special attention to that specific area of the slide.

I personally would keep an eye on it in the future when you perform your routine maintenance. Again, if the weapon sits unfired for any length of time, pull it out and do a quick wipe down/visual inspection.

I pull out my rifles on a monthly basis during the winter months when I don’t shoot as much, and look them over. Do a basic field strip, wipe things down with a CLP soaked rag, and run a damp CLP soaked patch down the bore for storage.
Link Posted: 4/16/2008 6:00:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/16/2008 7:56:54 PM EST by 12_gauge]

Originally Posted By QUIB:

Originally Posted By 12_gauge:
Now that that area has had rust on it before, is it more prone to rusting than if it had not in the first place, or do I need not keep an eye on it any more than I would a part that had not rusted?


If you removed all the surface rust, and there is no pitting for corrosion to hide in, then I would think you should be good-to-go.

My XD9, even though I wipe it down regularly, developed a spec of rust on the fwd portion of the slide. No bigger than the head of a pin, I removed it with CLP, rags and a GI tooth brush. Now during wipe downs I pay special attention to that specific area of the slide.

I personally would keep an eye on it in the future when you perform your routine maintenance. Again, if the weapon sits unfired for any length of time, pull it out and do a quick wipe down/visual inspection.

I pull out my rifles on a monthly basis during the winter months when I don’t shoot as much, and look them over. Do a basic field strip, wipe things down with a CLP soaked rag, and run a damp CLP soaked patch down the bore for storage.


This was a spot about 2x the size of a pencil erasor. I think it was on the weapon when I got it, as I noticed it within a week of taking delivery and Sabre ships BONE DRY. Either way, I am pretty sure I got it all, I was agressive with the rust/bluing remover, Q-tips, and some polishing compound.

So far the blued nail is resisting corrosion SLIGHTLY! better than the non-blued one, the real shock to me is that the LP only nail just DESTROYED the blued+LP nail. I put another blued+LP into the bowl under paper using the same salt-water to see if the first was a fluke, if not, wierd, bluing + LP is worse than just straight LP by FAR if the results were not a fluke. Will know in an hour or two.

ETA: Yep, the blued+CLP nail is fairing worse than the CLP alone nail.
Link Posted: 4/18/2008 8:35:08 AM EST
I use cold Blue For Touch up ONLY (Barrel/Flashider)
use clp afterwards
stuff works great for Touch up
Link Posted: 4/19/2008 3:39:09 PM EST

Originally Posted By FMJ:
I use cold Blue For Touch up ONLY (Barrel/Flashider)
use clp afterwards
stuff works great for Touch up


Same here on my SIG226 barrel.
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