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Posted: 8/22/2005 7:12:39 PM EDT
I want to get one,however, I'm confused about what one to get. I have a Bushmaster and have learned that I need the small pin one so far. I just plink around with the thing. But I also like being VERY accurate with my targets I shoot at. I'm not in competition or anything, other than just  becoming better and better for myself. I just want a better trigger with a lighter pull. My question is, do I want single stage or the two stage? Do I want the flat or curved trigger? I would also like it if someone could explain the difference between the two. Does anyone out there have one and what do you think about it compaired to the stock trigger. I'm not really looking for opinions, I'm hopeing for some feedback from people that know from experience.

JohnNLV
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 7:30:16 PM EDT
[#1]
If you plan on any kind of home defense with the weapon I would highly recommend keeping the stock trigger. If not the Chip Mcormick is a great trigger. Which one you go with is all personal preference. I personally would go with a curved 2 stage. I have never used a straight tigger but just can't see how it would be benificial.
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 8:29:40 PM EDT
[#2]
I wouldn't use a AR-15 for home defense
Link Posted: 8/22/2005 9:10:44 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
I wouldn't use a AR-15 for home defense



Me neither, they're perfect for the job.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 4:33:08 AM EDT
[#4]
do a search



this topic has been discussed a lot here.



imo, its personal preferrence
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 5:00:05 AM EDT
[#5]
I did the search thingie and found only one post in the last three months on any of the boards regarding the CMC trigger and that one got locked after 25 posts because someone got their panties in a wad over one reply and the initiator of the thread requested it get locked.
My question is once you have it installed, how do you make adjustments?  I know it's a self contained one piece drop in unit, but I can't see how you would adjust it to raise or lower the trigger pull.
I'm totally knew to the "precision" AR platform.  I've got a free floated 20" with a stock Bushy trigger.  Just looking to make it shoot tighter and more accurately.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 5:41:50 AM EDT
[#6]
I didn't think the CMC was adjustable.  But I've been wrong before.

ETA:
From www.rbprecision.com:
1. Gunsmiths: Patent pending one piece assembly installs in minutes. Check for safe and proper function, you're done.
2. ) Installation of the trigger group is quite simple: Drop in the one piece assembly, install the supplied over-sized pins. No screws to adjust or worry about coming loose at the worst possible time. 3. ) No cheap tricks or compromises: Full strength music wire springs for fast lock-time & reliable discharge with factory or military ammo. Fully machined tolerances of +/-.001" and through hardened, the S-7 tool steel hammer, trigger, disconnector and pins are made with the highest grade, hardest, longest wearing material available. You won't get this kind of quality, performance and service life with inferior surface hardened cast parts! Housing is 410 stainless steel.
4. ) Patent pending "Super Match Flat Trigger**" yields unprecedented control, ergonomics and consistency. Highly recommended!!!
5. ) Factory tuned for a better than average match grade trigger pull with minimum take-up and over-travel. Typical quality we're famous for.
6. ) Available in single stage and two stage trigger action. Fits Mil-Spec receivers. Available for small or large center pin receiver holes.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 5:42:23 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
I didn't think the CMC was adjustable.  But I've been wrong before.





they are not
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 5:48:38 AM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
I did the search thingie and found only one post in the last three months on any of the boards regarding the CMC trigger and that one got locked after 25 posts because someone got their panties in a wad over one reply and the initiator of the thread requested it get locked.
My question is once you have it installed, how do you make adjustments?  I know it's a self contained one piece drop in unit, but I can't see how you would adjust it to raise or lower the trigger pull.
I'm totally knew to the "precision" AR platform.  I've got a free floated 20" with a stock Bushy trigger.  Just looking to make it shoot tighter and more accurately.





ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=12&t=244467


ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=242512

ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=240761
all the others have been archived. if you are a team member you can search the archives.


there is a few threads that are 3 pages long with reviews and comments about these triggers. i got  a page full of hits when i searched chip mccormick
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 6:03:26 AM EDT
[#9]
"do a search" I've searched this trigger on your forum and others and can't get my questions answered. Do YOU know the answers? Could you take some time out to talk to me if you do. This thing is driving me crazy. Personal preference is fine, however, I can't make a good choice without knowing the diffrence between a two stage and a single. What does two stage mean? Is there room before the thing comes to the point of the actual fire point? If so, what the heck good is that why would someone want that? They sell them, people obviously buy them. And whats up with the flat trigger? Is there anyone on this forum that has a CMC match trigger?

JohnNLV
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 6:11:14 AM EDT
[#10]
two stage has two stages equalling the total breaking weight.

first stage is the "take up stage" pre- breaking point that the trigger has to move through then there's the second stage which is the breaking point, dropping of hammer.


single stage has just one stage. pull trigger, hammer drops.


flat and curved is up to you.


the curve is like the traditional. flat is flat. imagine your std trigger now but straight. up and down with no curve in it and see if you would like it.



i use the two stage with the curved trigger.

two stage cause i like the take up before the break and it seems as its lighter. curved cause it similar to the std. trigger.

i only have the cmc triggers in my precision rifles though.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 6:13:04 AM EDT
[#11]
the blue stuff above are links to threads that discuss the cmc trigger. click on them and do some reading.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 6:39:16 AM EDT
[#12]
ThankYou eklikwhoa..Questions Answered

JohnNLV
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 11:46:21 AM EDT
[#13]
see below
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 11:46:59 AM EDT
[#14]
I just bought one a couple days ago and so far so good. I pulled both the flat and the curved and the flat seemed to be lighter but I went with the curved. It was VERY easy to install. You will have more work taking the old one out (which is easy) than putting the new one in. If you have any questions then you can email me. I use my gun for hunting app's but I reload all my ammo so a good trigger is a must when it comes to testing the ammo. When it comes time to buy call Jason at JTAC. Thats who I got mine from and I am very pleased with him and the way he handles his business.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 2:03:32 PM EDT
[#15]
in got mine from dennysguns


hes has the best price i have found on them and offers a package price for the trigger and kns anit-rotational pins


Link Posted: 8/23/2005 6:14:38 PM EDT
[#16]
I got a two stage curved CMC from Midway. It installed easily in a 20" Bushmaster. I found the second stage way to light. It was so light that I couldn't reliably tell when the second stage would let off. This trigger would not work well for 200/300 yard rapid fire in high power matches because in rapid fire I couldn't even feel the second stage. I have a RRA trigger in my match AR and the CMC was a distant second. I returned the CMC and bought another RRA trigger  from White Oak Armament.
To be fair about the CMC trigger, I think I got a lemon. I've seen mostly praise for the CMC and I don't think my CMC trigger is representative of all CMC triggers.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 9:12:56 PM EDT
[#17]
I love these guys that get an attitude when they are being helped. I also prefer a two stage trigger. They have a takeup and then a nice light crisp break. The combination of both stages equal their pull weight. For instance a two stage trigger might have a 3 pound 1st stage and then a nice light 1-11/2lb pull whereas a single stage will have like a 2 or 3 pound break. There are also some single stages that can be adjusted to break at very light weights as well. Like a 1 and a half pound total pull weight.
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 9:20:09 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
I love these guys that get an attitude when they are being helped. I also prefer a two stage trigger. They have a takeup and then a nice light crisp break. The combination of both stages equal their pull weight. For instance a two stage trigger might have a 3 pound 1st stage and then a nice light 1-11/2lb pull whereas a single stage will have like a 2 or 3 pound break.




So let me ask this.  Is there a "stopping point" between the first and second stage?
In other words, as you pull the trigger back taking up stage 1, is there someplace
where you "bottom out" and know that the smallest movement will fire the weapon,
or is it more like a long slow takeup and a total surprise when it fires?
Link Posted: 8/23/2005 9:41:07 PM EDT
[#19]
It's not a surprise. After the takeup stage you will feel the stop as you will need another 1 or 2 pounds of pressure to break the trigger. You can actually pull the trigger through the first stage and sit there all day before you actually pull the trigger through the second stage. If it were just a surprise it wouldn't be a two stage trigger. There are two pronounced stages. There are also two stage triggers that have a light first stage and a heavier break. Once again it comes down to preference.
Link Posted: 8/24/2005 3:32:35 AM EDT
[#20]
yep.
first stage is light pulling on it and when it hits the second stage there is a slight stop which would require the rest of the pull weight in order to drop the hammer
Link Posted: 8/24/2005 4:00:00 AM EDT
[#21]

Quoted:
It's not a surprise. After the takeup stage you will feel the stop as you will need another 1 or 2 pounds of pressure to break the trigger. You can actually pull the trigger through the first stage and sit there all day before you actually pull the trigger through the second stage. If it were just a surprise it wouldn't be a two stage trigger. There are two pronounced stages. There are also two stage triggers that have a light first stage and a heavier break. Once again it comes down to preference.



Well then my brand new Rock River is a piece of junk.   I don't feel this "stop" at the
second stage, I just get one long slow creepy trigger and then an unexpected
firing. I wasn't sure if this was how it was supposed to be since I'd never fired
a 2 stage trigger before this, but it didn't seem like something anyone would want.

Thanks for the info, it's going back to RRA......or should I send it to White Oak?

sorry for the slight hijack.
Link Posted: 8/24/2005 4:51:52 AM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:

Quoted:
It's not a surprise. After the takeup stage you will feel the stop as you will need another 1 or 2 pounds of pressure to break the trigger. You can actually pull the trigger through the first stage and sit there all day before you actually pull the trigger through the second stage. If it were just a surprise it wouldn't be a two stage trigger. There are two pronounced stages. There are also two stage triggers that have a light first stage and a heavier break. Once again it comes down to preference.



Well then my brand new Rock River is a piece of junk.   I don't feel this "stop" at the
second stage, I just get one long slow creepy trigger and then an unexpected
firing. I wasn't sure if this was how it was supposed to be since I'd never fired
a 2 stage trigger before this, but it didn't seem like something anyone would want.

Thanks for the info, it's going back to RRA......or should I send it to White Oak?

sorry for the slight hijack.





if rra would replace it get them to or just save the hassle/time and send it to woa.

i had a woa/rra two stage and it had a pronounced two stage feel to it.
Link Posted: 8/24/2005 5:49:08 AM EDT
[#23]
Both of my Rock river triggers have a light first stage (about 2lbs) followed by a pronounced second stage (2.5lbs ?).  Creep on one, when new, was gritty, but after 200 or so rounds this feeling abated.  I've owned a CMC 2 stage trigger, and while it's a fine trigger, their performance does not warrant the extra $80 I spent.  

Bottom line, the CMC was sold to defray the cost of both of my Rock River triggers.  I'm debating whether or not to send my triggers to woa, but hate the thought of going back to the standard trigger while I wait.

I've read of others whose RR 2 stage triggers "lost" the second stage.  Sounds like a hammer/sear engagement issue (take up spring or 1st stage function works fine, but the hammer and sear engagement is so small that pulling through this 1st stage leads to no definitive "stop" and a subsequent "surprise" break).  Send it back to RR with a detailed description of the problem

just my 2 cents.
Link Posted: 8/24/2005 6:55:00 AM EDT
[#24]

Quoted:
Both of my Rock river triggers have a light first stage (about 2lbs) followed by a pronounced second stage (2.5lbs ?).  Creep on one, when new, was gritty, but after 200 or so rounds this feeling abated.  I've owned a CMC 2 stage trigger, and while it's a fine trigger, their performance does not warrant the extra $80 I spent.  

Bottom line, the CMC was sold to defray the cost of both of my Rock River triggers.  I'm debating whether or not to send my triggers to woa, but hate the thought of going back to the standard trigger while I wait.

I've read of others whose RR 2 stage triggers "lost" the second stage.  Sounds like a hammer/sear engagement issue (take up spring or 1st stage function works fine, but the hammer and sear engagement is so small that pulling through this 1st stage leads to no definitive "stop" and a subsequent "surprise" break).  Send it back to RR with a detailed description of the problem

just my 2 cents.








i guess the rra works better for you cause after i got the cmc i noticed that it was much better than my woa/rra two stage and felt that the cmc was well worth the price tag and sold my woa/rra to offset the cost of another cmc
Link Posted: 8/24/2005 8:26:37 AM EDT
[#25]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Both of my Rock river triggers have a light first stage (about 2lbs) followed by a pronounced second stage (2.5lbs ?).  Creep on one, when new, was gritty, but after 200 or so rounds this feeling abated.  I've owned a CMC 2 stage trigger, and while it's a fine trigger, their performance does not warrant the extra $80 I spent.  

Bottom line, the CMC was sold to defray the cost of both of my Rock River triggers.  I'm debating whether or not to send my triggers to woa, but hate the thought of going back to the standard trigger while I wait.

I've read of others whose RR 2 stage triggers "lost" the second stage.  Sounds like a hammer/sear engagement issue (take up spring or 1st stage function works fine, but the hammer and sear engagement is so small that pulling through this 1st stage leads to no definitive "stop" and a subsequent "surprise" break).  Send it back to RR with a detailed description of the problem

just my 2 cents.








i guess the rra works better for you cause after i got the cmc i noticed that it was much better than my woa/rra two stage and felt that the cmc was well worth the price tag and sold my woa/rra to offset the cost of another cmc



Oh, never had any problems with the CMC...subjective trigger preferences aside...it works very well, but not 80 bucks better.  I've debated this very topic with the friend who purchased the CMC from me...he absolutely loves it and wouldn't have anything else, BUT he gave me $130 for it so I don't expect anything but glowing remarks about it from him.  

The CMC trigger's transition from 1st to 2nd stage wasn't "sure" enough for me i.e. not abrupt.  I prefer a definitive "point" which I perceived as being greater in the RR unit.  But like I said...just my two cents...everyone has their preferences.
Link Posted: 8/24/2005 4:08:08 PM EDT
[#26]

Quoted:
It's not a surprise. After the takeup stage you will feel the stop as you will need another 1 or 2 pounds of pressure to break the trigger. You can actually pull the trigger through the first stage and sit there all day before you actually pull the trigger through the second stage. If it were just a surprise it wouldn't be a two stage trigger. There are two pronounced stages. There are also two stage triggers that have a light first stage and a heavier break. Once again it comes down to preference.



I love the bold part!  The first stage is where the springs are at rest and are beginning to let off in there rested position and all your doing is taking up that slack of the first stage to reach the breaking point which is felt in the second stage.  Once you get to the second stage imagine pulling a light single stage trigger.  Most handguns have 2 stage triggers by design.  There is a slack take-up point, then you begin pulling to fire (that is double action semi-autos).  Only with a CM the pull is super light.  These triggers could be used in any situation with training, remember point index!

I have the CM 2 stage flat and love this thing...it is awesome.  Jason at JTAC will hook you up good.  
Link Posted: 8/25/2005 4:38:37 AM EDT
[#27]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Quoted:
Both of my Rock river triggers have a light first stage (about 2lbs) followed by a pronounced second stage (2.5lbs ?).  Creep on one, when new, was gritty, but after 200 or so rounds this feeling abated.  I've owned a CMC 2 stage trigger, and while it's a fine trigger, their performance does not warrant the extra $80 I spent.  

Bottom line, the CMC was sold to defray the cost of both of my Rock River triggers.  I'm debating whether or not to send my triggers to woa, but hate the thought of going back to the standard trigger while I wait.

I've read of others whose RR 2 stage triggers "lost" the second stage.  Sounds like a hammer/sear engagement issue (take up spring or 1st stage function works fine, but the hammer and sear engagement is so small that pulling through this 1st stage leads to no definitive "stop" and a subsequent "surprise" break).  Send it back to RR with a detailed description of the problem

just my 2 cents.








i guess the rra works better for you cause after i got the cmc i noticed that it was much better than my woa/rra two stage and felt that the cmc was well worth the price tag and sold my woa/rra to offset the cost of another cmc



Oh, never had any problems with the CMC...subjective trigger preferences aside...it works very well, but not 80 bucks better.  I've debated this very topic with the friend who purchased the CMC from me...he absolutely loves it and wouldn't have anything else, BUT he gave me $130 for it so I don't expect anything but glowing remarks about it from him.  

The CMC trigger's transition from 1st to 2nd stage wasn't "sure" enough for me i.e. not abrupt.  I prefer a definitive "point" which I perceived as being greater in the RR unit.  But like I said...just my two cents...everyone has their preferences.




i paid $160 for mine new and the woa/rra was $115 which is only $45 more. imo well worth it.


just stating my opinion on the trigger, everyone is entitled to their $.02
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