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Link Posted: 5/26/2013 3:40:50 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/26/2013 4:49:46 AM EST



Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:


Turns out the 14" CMR goes perfect with 14.7" barrels and suppressors!



These uppers both feature 14.7" Centurion Arms barrels and 14" Centurion Modular Rails.  They are suppressed with the AAC M4-2000 and Surefire SOCOM suppressor



https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/CMR%20Cans-%20800.jpg




 
Link Posted: 5/26/2013 8:04:57 AM EST
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Turns out the 14" CMR goes perfect with 14.7" barrels and suppressors!

These uppers both feature 14.7" Centurion Arms barrels and 14" Centurion Modular Rails.  They are suppressed with the AAC M4-2000 and Surefire SOCOM suppressor

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/CMR%20Cans-%20800.jpg


Is there enough room for a suppressor if a person has a 14.5" barrel?
Link Posted: 5/26/2013 3:48:20 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/26/2013 7:10:06 PM EST
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By LRB45:

Is there enough room for a suppressor if a person has a 14.5" barrel?


It depends on the can.  



Looking at the Surefire Socom mount and can if it will work.  So if anyone knows that would be great because I don't want to pin and weld the muzzle brake and not have it work.

Thanks in advance!
Link Posted: 5/27/2013 12:07:49 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/27/2013 12:54:03 AM EST by 556hollowtip]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Dissident:
Any pics of a 12 on a 12.5" upper?


Oddly enough I've got the parts next to me...  



Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to  wait for a 11" to come out....
Link Posted: 5/27/2013 1:09:00 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/27/2013 9:37:38 AM EST
I have quite a few of the 556 CMR rails, they are really nice
Link Posted: 5/27/2013 9:47:15 AM EST
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By 556hollowtip:
Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to  wait for a 11" to come out....




It won't, the 12" is longer than an actual 12 inches.  Check the first post out for the reason.  



I see, somehow missed that. Looks like I will be waiting then. Do you by chance know if Rainier will carry the 11" when released?
Link Posted: 5/27/2013 2:39:06 PM EST
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By 556hollowtip:
Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to  wait for a 11" to come out....




It won't, the 12" is longer than an actual 12 inches.  Check the first post out for the reason.  



I take it then that the same will hold true for all mounts/suppressor combinations?  12" won't work on a 12.5" nor the 14" for the 14.5"?  

Link Posted: 5/27/2013 6:41:04 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/27/2013 6:45:35 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/27/2013 6:46:16 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/27/2013 6:46:36 PM EST by Stickman]
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 3:12:46 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/28/2013 3:17:12 PM EST by jukeboxx13]





Originally Posted By Stickman:



Direct mount Magpul MVG....  it took about 5 mniutes worth of work to get it modified.  
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/8860609486_970aa3198c_o.jpg



So does the mbus have to be behind the light or is that where you like it?


 



ETA: Looks like you have to mount behind the light, but I would need to see it in person.






Link Posted: 5/28/2013 3:18:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/28/2013 3:43:25 PM EST by jukeboxx13]
Had to re-post cause it such a great set-up.









ETA: I am so tempted to buy this handguard because its lighter and stronger than the competition, but I'd really like to see what kind of hand stops will work with it first. So if the IWC hand stop will work I will be saving my pennies for this baby.






















 


 
Link Posted: 5/28/2013 6:11:07 PM EST
I got my CMR .308 Rail put together, this thing is awesome! The rail went together very well but I really had to scrounge for a spanner wrench to tighten the barrel nut. It is much lighter then I expected, I look forward to some of the accessories for the rail system to get released! I look forward to shooting it shortly, hopefully weather holds out this weekend for me

Specs are:

14" Centurion Arms CMR 308 Rail
16" Rainier Arms Select Barrel
Mega MaTen Upper Receiver
BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 7.62 Charging Handle
762 Industries BCG

LaRue PredatOBR lower (since its been sitting in the safe collecting dust )

Leupold Mark 6 1-6x CMR-W 7.62 in a LaRue LT-120 Mount





Link Posted: 5/28/2013 9:29:17 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/29/2013 8:45:30 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/30/2013 5:32:16 PM EST
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Originally Posted By HisMajesty:
Will these rails work with a MUR upper?  Please say yes


Just did a quick test fit, and yes, they work fine with the MUR-1A I just got straight from VLTOR

Just finished up a CMR 12" build with one of the Centurion Arms 14.7" barrels we finally got in.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/Centurion%20CMR%20-%20800.jpg


I have a MUR-1A and it won't fit

The centering tabs won't fit over the upper....Maybe i'm just an idiot, i've never used a VLTOR upper with a build before....
Link Posted: 5/30/2013 5:42:43 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/30/2013 5:43:15 PM EST by toolb0x]
Would there be room to perm attach a Battlecomp 1.5 on a 14.5" barrel with the 14.0 CMR?
Link Posted: 5/30/2013 7:02:38 PM EST
Originally Posted By coregon:
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Originally Posted By HisMajesty:
Will these rails work with a MUR upper?  Please say yes


Just did a quick test fit, and yes, they work fine with the MUR-1A I just got straight from VLTOR

Just finished up a CMR 12" build with one of the Centurion Arms 14.7" barrels we finally got in.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/Centurion%20CMR%20-%20800.jpg


I have a MUR-1A and it won't fit

The centering tabs won't fit over the upper....Maybe i'm just an idiot, i've never used a VLTOR upper with a build before....


Do you have the 1st gen MUR with the squared front, or the 2nd gen with the rounded front right behind the barrel nut threads?

Link Posted: 5/30/2013 10:36:38 PM EST
Originally Posted By Bronc:
Originally Posted By coregon:
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Originally Posted By HisMajesty:
Will these rails work with a MUR upper?  Please say yes


Just did a quick test fit, and yes, they work fine with the MUR-1A I just got straight from VLTOR

Just finished up a CMR 12" build with one of the Centurion Arms 14.7" barrels we finally got in.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/Centurion%20CMR%20-%20800.jpg


I have a MUR-1A and it won't fit

The centering tabs won't fit over the upper....Maybe i'm just an idiot, i've never used a VLTOR upper with a build before....


Do you have the 1st gen MUR with the squared front, or the 2nd gen with the rounded front right behind the barrel nut threads?



Must be 1st Gen, because it's definitely square.  As I said, this is my first experience with a VLTOR upper.  Thanks for the info.
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 12:43:40 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 1:30:58 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 1:31:52 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 1:32:32 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 7:49:21 AM EST
Mine (14") arrived a couple of days ago but I didn't get a chance to really look at it until yesterday.  I'm completely impressed.  Yes, it isn't inexpensive - but it's well worth the money.  Awesome stuff.
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 8:14:10 AM EST



Originally Posted By Stickman:



Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:

Had to re-post cause it such a great set-up.



ETA: I am so tempted to buy this handguard because its lighter and stronger than the competition, but I'd really like to see what kind of hand stops will work with it first. So if the IWC hand stop will work I will be saving my pennies for this baby.





 
 




I'm not sure if it will or not, I'll see if I can find one I had floating around.  





I got an email reply from Centurion saying they are developing their own hand stop so I hope it turns out good.

 


Link Posted: 5/31/2013 8:16:29 AM EST



Originally Posted By Stickman:



Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:




Originally Posted By Stickman:

Direct mount Magpul MVG....  it took about 5 mniutes worth of work to get it modified.  





http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/8860609486_970aa3198c_o.jpg


So does the mbus have to be behind the light or is that where you like it?  



ETA: Looks like you have to mount behind the light, but I would need to see it in person.








It is placed there because I swap lights around, and often have a X300 up top.  This way I don't need to rezero and move my front sight.  





Good to know the mbus can be up front with the scout set-up.

 
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 12:37:43 PM EST
My meager contribution. 14" rail on a 16" carbine barrel

Link Posted: 5/31/2013 12:42:45 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 12:56:58 PM EST
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these.
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 1:22:22 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 1:30:44 PM EST
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these.


No love for the 18"?



This.  a LW 18" Noveske 1/7 (like in a Rogue Hunter) would be a good choice...
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 5:40:32 PM EST
It's pretty sweet that the 14" CMR is lighter but stronger than the 13" Troy Vtac Alpha.
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 6:06:35 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/31/2013 6:09:25 PM EST by ritterbruder]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:
My meager contribution. 14" rail on a 16" carbine barrel

http://imageshack.us/a/img819/9596/photoyjx.jpg



Nothing meager about that setup, that is nice!


Haha thanks for the compliment. First time showing my AR on ARFCOM and I wasn't sure how an untacticoolified gun would fare on this thread :P. Plus I'm no professional gun porn maker hehe

Anyways, there is a small gap between the anti-rotation tabs and the upper receiver, and it is allowing the handguard to rotate just slightly. It's kind of a big deal since I like shooting irons and it causes the front sight to cant. Does this mean I need to torque the barrel nut with a spanner wrench? I got lazy (and cheap) and just used my hand to tighten the barrel nut

Also an option is to put shims under the anti-rotation tabs to tighten it up.
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 6:26:06 PM EST
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these.


No love for the 18"?



Not for this. For hunting longer is better, more for noise than velocity.
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 6:32:40 PM EST
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these.


No love for the 18"?



Not for this. For hunting longer is better, more for noise than velocity.


I really like your hunting rifle idea. Ever thought of a 24" barrel? Or is the increase in velocity from 20" to 24" marginal?
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 6:40:36 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 6:41:50 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 6:53:12 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/31/2013 6:56:00 PM EST by ritterbruder]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:

Haha thanks for the compliment. First time showing my AR on ARFCOM and I wasn't sure how an untacticoolified gun would fare on this thread :P. Plus I'm no professional gun porn maker hehe

Anyways, there is a small gap between the anti-rotation tabs and the upper receiver, and it is allowing the handguard to rotate just slightly. It's kind of a big deal since I like shooting irons and it causes the front sight to cant. Does this mean I need to torque the barrel nut with a spanner wrench? I got lazy (and cheap) and just used my hand to tighten the barrel nut

Also an option is to put shims under the anti-rotation tabs to tighten it up.



If you were here, I would treat you like my brother, and kick you in the junk for tightening it with your hand.  You need to get a wrench and do it right!

No, an option is not to shim the antirotation tabs, the only option is to do that %#&$#&$#^&%&*) right!!!!  



Improvised wrench, LOL

Worked farily well, got it nice and snug now. Would an AR castle nut wrench improve upon this?



Link Posted: 5/31/2013 6:58:11 PM EST
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these.


No love for the 18"?



Not for this. For hunting longer is better, more for noise than velocity.


I really like your hunting rifle idea. Ever thought of a 24" barrel? Or is the increase in velocity from 20" to 24" marginal?


It's probably 90fps but then the length is getting to be too much.

Besides 20" gives me expansion with a 70 TSX to 300m or so.
Link Posted: 5/31/2013 8:08:25 PM EST
Sorry I didn't post my pic last week, my vltor mur upper receiver got lost in the mail and had to travel from coast to coast then back to the midwest to get to me.  

Sorry for the crappy pic was in a rush.  



16" blackhole mid barrel.  14" rail, muzzle brake will be getting swapped for battle comp or similar. Might shorten to 14.5" after I finish fluting.  Really need some panels to finish it off


Link Posted: 5/31/2013 9:56:47 PM EST
Link Posted: 6/1/2013 3:44:45 PM EST
Link Posted: 6/1/2013 11:09:36 PM EST
What wrench/tool are you all using to install your CMR? I just got my 12" CMR and don't have the tools to install it. I thought I would have the tool figured out before the rail got here but it turns out this has been harder than I thought. When I look for tools that include that feature most are the worst kind of cheap (unspecified foreign country) combo wrench crap.

Is there a decent quality tool I can purchase, without spending a fortune, that will do the job?

Also, There were no instructions included with my CMR. Since the CMR barrel nut does not interface with the gas tube I assume I can set it to whatever torque rating I want. What torque rating do I want? I have always just gone in the "range" wherever the nut lined up. If there is an ideal torque setting I don't know it.

Thanks in advance guys. I am not a rich man and this rifle has been 3 years in the making. The funny thing is, being poor has made me spend more on the rifle! Back when I had money I always did "bang-for-the-buck" builds. Decent quality but nothing amazing. Now that I knew I could only sell the wife, and myself, on one rifle I have spent as much as two or three of my old rifles (all sold after an unfortunate life event that has led to our current financial state). It's the whole "If you could have only one" question brought to life. It HAS to be right. The last several months I have only needed the rail to finish the rifle but I could not find a single one that I was satisfied with. The quality was either too low, they had some objectionable feature, or they were missing a must-have feature. I was NOT going to build this with something that was not going to make me happy. As far as I am concerned, the CMR was born so that I could finish my rifle.  It is almost exactly what I was dreaming of. Please help me so I can get this thing put together! After 3 years of patience I am all out! Thanks again.
Link Posted: 6/2/2013 12:14:59 AM EST
Mine didn't come with instructions either, but I torqued mine down to roughly 50 ft-lbs with my calibrated elbow.
I already had a spanner wrench in my tool box that worked, don't remember where I got it. I've heard of people using a castle nut wrench that's meant for the receiver extension too. My RRA wrench with its three teeth wouldn't fit on the nut, you'd need one with a single tooth. I thought of sticking something like a long allen wrench all the way through the holes and just tightening the hell out of it, but decided against it.

Also, pics will be posted after I paint her next week
Link Posted: 6/2/2013 12:37:38 AM EST
50 ft-lbs is about right, here are a couple of barrel nut wrenches that will work:

Guntec

Rainier
Link Posted: 6/2/2013 8:05:14 AM EST
Originally Posted By DWCOYOTE:
What wrench/tool are you all using to install your CMR? I just got my 12" CMR and don't have the tools to install it. I thought I would have the tool figured out before the rail got here but it turns out this has been harder than I thought. When I look for tools that include that feature most are the worst kind of cheap (unspecified foreign country) combo wrench crap.

Is there a decent quality tool I can purchase, without spending a fortune, that will do the job?

Also, There were no instructions included with my CMR. Since the CMR barrel nut does not interface with the gas tube I assume I can set it to whatever torque rating I want. What torque rating do I want? I have always just gone in the "range" wherever the nut lined up. If there is an ideal torque setting I don't know it.

Thanks in advance guys. I am not a rich man and this rifle has been 3 years in the making. The funny thing is, being poor has made me spend more on the rifle! Back when I had money I always did "bang-for-the-buck" builds. Decent quality but nothing amazing. Now that I knew I could only sell the wife, and myself, on one rifle I have spent as much as two or three of my old rifles (all sold after an unfortunate life event that has led to our current financial state). It's the whole "If you could have only one" question brought to life. It HAS to be right. The last several months I have only needed the rail to finish the rifle but I could not find a single one that I was satisfied with. The quality was either too low, they had some objectionable feature, or they were missing a must-have feature. I was NOT going to build this with something that was not going to make me happy. As far as I am concerned, the CMR was born so that I could finish my rifle.  It is almost exactly what I was dreaming of. Please help me so I can get this thing put together! After 3 years of patience I am all out! Thanks again.


I used the DPMS wrench. Cost less than $25 when I bought it might be alittle higher now. 50 ft/ibs with a torque wrench.




Link Posted: 6/2/2013 8:40:05 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/2/2013 8:42:25 AM EST by Bronc]
A lot of guys are using the DD Lite Rail wrench by filing down the 2 unneeded
tabs.
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