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Posted: 5/26/2013 4:40:50 AM EDT
[#1]
Turns out the 14" CMR goes perfect with 14.7" barrels and suppressors!
These uppers both feature 14.7" Centurion Arms barrels and 14" Centurion Modular Rails. They are suppressed with the AAC M4-2000 and Surefire SOCOM suppressor 
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Posted: 5/26/2013 5:49:46 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters: Turns out the 14" CMR goes perfect with 14.7" barrels and suppressors! These uppers both feature 14.7" Centurion Arms barrels and 14" Centurion Modular Rails. They are suppressed with the AAC M4-2000 and Surefire SOCOM suppressor https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/CMR%20Cans-%20800.jpg  |
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NE, USA
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Posted: 5/26/2013 9:04:57 AM EDT
[#3]
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Turns out the 14" CMR goes perfect with 14.7" barrels and suppressors! These uppers both feature 14.7" Centurion Arms barrels and 14" Centurion Modular Rails. They are suppressed with the AAC M4-2000 and Surefire SOCOM suppressor https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/CMR%20Cans-%20800.jpg Is there enough room for a suppressor if a person has a 14.5" barrel? |
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Posted: 5/26/2013 4:48:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Originally Posted By LRB45:
Is there enough room for a suppressor if a person has a 14.5" barrel? It depends on the can. |
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NE, USA
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Posted: 5/26/2013 8:10:06 PM EDT
[#5]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By LRB45:
Is there enough room for a suppressor if a person has a 14.5" barrel? It depends on the can. Looking at the Surefire Socom mount and can if it will work. So if anyone knows that would be great because I don't want to pin and weld the muzzle brake and not have it work. Thanks in advance! |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 5/27/2013 1:07:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 556hollowtip]
[#6]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Dissident:
Any pics of a 12 on a 12.5" upper? Oddly enough I've got the parts next to me... Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to wait for a 11" to come out.... |
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Posted: 5/27/2013 2:09:00 AM EDT
[#7]
Originally Posted By 556hollowtip:
Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to wait for a 11" to come out.... It won't, the 12" is longer than an actual 12 inches. Check the first post out for the reason. |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 5/27/2013 10:37:38 AM EDT
[#8]
I have quite a few of the 556 CMR rails, they are really nice
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UT, USA
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Posted: 5/27/2013 10:47:15 AM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By 556hollowtip:
Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to wait for a 11" to come out.... It won't, the 12" is longer than an actual 12 inches. Check the first post out for the reason. I see, somehow missed that. Looks like I will be waiting then. Do you by chance know if Rainier will carry the 11" when released? |
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Posted: 5/27/2013 3:39:06 PM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By 556hollowtip:
Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to wait for a 11" to come out.... It won't, the 12" is longer than an actual 12 inches. Check the first post out for the reason. I take it then that the same will hold true for all mounts/suppressor combinations? 12" won't work on a 12.5" nor the 14" for the 14.5"? |
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Posted: 5/27/2013 7:41:04 PM EDT
[#11]
Originally Posted By 556hollowtip:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By 556hollowtip:
Interested also. Fairly certain my NT4 can would work with its latch/attatch method being that close, but pics would help. Not sure I will be patient enough to wait for a 11" to come out.... It won't, the 12" is longer than an actual 12 inches. Check the first post out for the reason. I see, somehow missed that. Looks like I will be waiting then. Do you by chance know if Rainier will carry the 11" when released? Rainier Arms carries everything Centurion Arms makes, and is the largest dealer/ distributor. I can't think of any reason in the world why the 11" CMR would be ignored. 
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Posted: 5/27/2013 7:45:35 PM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By Dissident:
I take it then that the same will hold true for all mounts/suppressor combinations? 12" won't work on a 12.5" nor the 14" for the 14.5"? It all depends on the components used. The 14" is actually a bit shorter than 14". The attachment method for the cans will play a large part of it as well. |
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Posted: 5/27/2013 7:46:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Stickman]
[#13]
Direct mount Magpul MVG.... it took about 5 mniutes worth of work to get it modified.
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Posted: 5/28/2013 4:12:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jukeboxx13]
[#14]
Originally Posted By Stickman: Direct mount Magpul MVG.... it took about 5 mniutes worth of work to get it modified. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/8860609486_970aa3198c_o.jpg So does the mbus have to be behind the light or is that where you like it? ETA: Looks like you have to mount behind the light, but I would need to see it in person.  |
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Posted: 5/28/2013 4:18:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jukeboxx13]
[#15]
Had to re-post cause it such a great set-up.
ETA: I am so tempted to buy this handguard because its lighter and stronger than the competition, but I'd really like to see what kind of hand stops will work with it first. So if the IWC hand stop will work I will be saving my pennies for this baby.  |
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Posted: 5/28/2013 7:11:07 PM EDT
[#16]
I got my CMR .308 Rail put together, this thing is awesome! The rail went together very well but I really had to scrounge for a spanner wrench to tighten the barrel nut. It is much lighter then I expected, I look forward to some of the accessories for the rail system to get released! I look forward to shooting it shortly, hopefully weather holds out this weekend for me
Specs are: 14" Centurion Arms CMR 308 Rail 16" Rainier Arms Select Barrel Mega MaTen Upper Receiver BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 7.62 Charging Handle 762 Industries BCG LaRue PredatOBR lower (since its been sitting in the safe collecting dust  )
Leupold Mark 6 1-6x CMR-W 7.62 in a LaRue LT-120 Mount 
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Posted: 5/28/2013 10:29:17 PM EDT
[#17]
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Posted: 5/29/2013 9:45:30 PM EDT
[#18]
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Posted: 5/30/2013 6:32:16 PM EDT
[#19]
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Originally Posted By HisMajesty:
Will these rails work with a MUR upper? Please say yes  Just did a quick test fit, and yes, they work fine with the MUR-1A I just got straight from VLTOR Just finished up a CMR 12" build with one of the Centurion Arms 14.7" barrels we finally got in. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/Centurion%20CMR%20-%20800.jpg I have a MUR-1A and it won't fit 
The centering tabs won't fit over the upper....Maybe i'm just an idiot, i've never used a VLTOR upper with a build before.... |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 5/30/2013 6:42:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: toolb0x]
[#20]
Would there be room to perm attach a Battlecomp 1.5 on a 14.5" barrel with the 14.0 CMR?
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Posted: 5/30/2013 8:02:38 PM EDT
[#21]
Originally Posted By coregon:
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Originally Posted By HisMajesty:
Will these rails work with a MUR upper? Please say yes Just did a quick test fit, and yes, they work fine with the MUR-1A I just got straight from VLTOR Just finished up a CMR 12" build with one of the Centurion Arms 14.7" barrels we finally got in. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/Centurion%20CMR%20-%20800.jpg I have a MUR-1A and it won't fit
The centering tabs won't fit over the upper....Maybe i'm just an idiot, i've never used a VLTOR upper with a build before.... Do you have the 1st gen MUR with the squared front, or the 2nd gen with the rounded front right behind the barrel nut threads? |
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Posted: 5/30/2013 11:36:38 PM EDT
[#22]
Originally Posted By Bronc:
Originally Posted By coregon:
Originally Posted By weaponoutfitters:
Originally Posted By HisMajesty:
Will these rails work with a MUR upper? Please say yes Just did a quick test fit, and yes, they work fine with the MUR-1A I just got straight from VLTOR Just finished up a CMR 12" build with one of the Centurion Arms 14.7" barrels we finally got in. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24650948/Guns%20and%20Advertisement/Centurion%20CMR%20-%20800.jpg I have a MUR-1A and it won't fit
The centering tabs won't fit over the upper....Maybe i'm just an idiot, i've never used a VLTOR upper with a build before.... Do you have the 1st gen MUR with the squared front, or the 2nd gen with the rounded front right behind the barrel nut threads? Must be 1st Gen, because it's definitely square. As I said, this is my first experience with a VLTOR upper. Thanks for the info. |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 1:43:40 AM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By toolb0x:
Would there be room to perm attach a Battlecomp 1.5 on a 14.5" barrel with the 14.0 CMR? Sure, you can pull the rail off over the BC. I'm not sure why you would want to leave the rail on when doing the work. I might be missing something in what you are asking. |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 2:30:58 AM EDT
[#24]
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Direct mount Magpul MVG.... it took about 5 mniutes worth of work to get it modified. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/8860609486_970aa3198c_o.jpg So does the mbus have to be behind the light or is that where you like it? ETA: Looks like you have to mount behind the light, but I would need to see it in person. It is placed there because I swap lights around, and often have a X300 up top. This way I don't need to rezero and move my front sight. |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 2:31:52 AM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Had to re-post cause it such a great set-up. ETA: I am so tempted to buy this handguard because its lighter and stronger than the competition, but I'd really like to see what kind of hand stops will work with it first. So if the IWC hand stop will work I will be saving my pennies for this baby.
I'm not sure if it will or not, I'll see if I can find one I had floating around. |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 2:32:32 AM EDT
[#26]
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Posted: 5/31/2013 8:49:21 AM EDT
[#27]
Mine (14") arrived a couple of days ago but I didn't get a chance to really look at it until yesterday. I'm completely impressed. Yes, it isn't inexpensive - but it's well worth the money. Awesome stuff.
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Posted: 5/31/2013 9:14:10 AM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By Stickman: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: Had to re-post cause it such a great set-up. ETA: I am so tempted to buy this handguard because its lighter and stronger than the competition, but I'd really like to see what kind of hand stops will work with it first. So if the IWC hand stop will work I will be saving my pennies for this baby. I'm not sure if it will or not, I'll see if I can find one I had floating around. I got an email reply from Centurion saying they are developing their own hand stop so I hope it turns out good. |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 9:16:29 AM EDT
[#29]
Originally Posted By Stickman: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: Originally Posted By Stickman: Direct mount Magpul MVG.... it took about 5 mniutes worth of work to get it modified. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/8860609486_970aa3198c_o.jpg So does the mbus have to be behind the light or is that where you like it? ETA: Looks like you have to mount behind the light, but I would need to see it in person. It is placed there because I swap lights around, and often have a X300 up top. This way I don't need to rezero and move my front sight. Good to know the mbus can be up front with the scout set-up. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/31/2013 1:37:43 PM EDT
[#30]
My meager contribution. 14" rail on a 16" carbine barrel
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Posted: 5/31/2013 1:42:45 PM EDT
[#31]
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:
My meager contribution. 14" rail on a 16" carbine barrel http://imageshack.us/a/img819/9596/photoyjx.jpg Nothing meager about that setup, that is nice! |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 1:56:58 PM EDT
[#32]
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these.
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Posted: 5/31/2013 2:22:22 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these. No love for the 18"? |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 2:30:44 PM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these. No love for the 18"? This. a LW 18" Noveske 1/7 (like in a Rogue Hunter) would be a good choice... |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 6:40:32 PM EDT
[#35]
It's pretty sweet that the 14" CMR is lighter but stronger than the 13" Troy Vtac Alpha.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/31/2013 7:06:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ritterbruder]
[#36]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:
My meager contribution. 14" rail on a 16" carbine barrel http://imageshack.us/a/img819/9596/photoyjx.jpg Nothing meager about that setup, that is nice! Haha thanks for the compliment. First time showing my AR on ARFCOM and I wasn't sure how an untacticoolified gun would fare on this thread :P. Plus I'm no professional gun porn maker hehe Anyways, there is a small gap between the anti-rotation tabs and the upper receiver, and it is allowing the handguard to rotate just slightly. It's kind of a big deal since I like shooting irons and it causes the front sight to cant. Does this mean I need to torque the barrel nut with a spanner wrench? I got lazy (and cheap) and just used my hand to tighten the barrel nut 
Also an option is to put shims under the anti-rotation tabs to tighten it up. |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 7:26:06 PM EDT
[#37]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these. No love for the 18"? Not for this. For hunting longer is better, more for noise than velocity. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/31/2013 7:32:40 PM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these. No love for the 18"? Not for this. For hunting longer is better, more for noise than velocity. I really like your hunting rifle idea. Ever thought of a 24" barrel? Or is the increase in velocity from 20" to 24" marginal? |
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Posted: 5/31/2013 7:40:36 PM EDT
[#39]
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:
Haha thanks for the compliment. First time showing my AR on ARFCOM and I wasn't sure how an untacticoolified gun would fare on this thread :P. Plus I'm no professional gun porn maker hehe Anyways, there is a small gap between the anti-rotation tabs and the upper receiver, and it is allowing the handguard to rotate just slightly. It's kind of a big deal since I like shooting irons and it causes the front sight to cant. Does this mean I need to torque the barrel nut with a spanner wrench? I got lazy (and cheap) and just used my hand to tighten the barrel nut
Also an option is to put shims under the anti-rotation tabs to tighten it up. If you were here, I would treat you like my brother, and kick you in the junk for tightening it with your hand. You need to get a wrench and do it right! No, an option is not to shim the antirotation tabs, the only option is to do that %#&$#&$#^&%&*) right!!!!
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Posted: 5/31/2013 7:41:50 PM EDT
[#40]
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Not for this. For hunting longer is better, more for noise than velocity. No arguing that angle. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/31/2013 7:53:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ritterbruder]
[#41]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:
Haha thanks for the compliment. First time showing my AR on ARFCOM and I wasn't sure how an untacticoolified gun would fare on this thread :P. Plus I'm no professional gun porn maker hehe Anyways, there is a small gap between the anti-rotation tabs and the upper receiver, and it is allowing the handguard to rotate just slightly. It's kind of a big deal since I like shooting irons and it causes the front sight to cant. Does this mean I need to torque the barrel nut with a spanner wrench? I got lazy (and cheap) and just used my hand to tighten the barrel nut
Also an option is to put shims under the anti-rotation tabs to tighten it up. If you were here, I would treat you like my brother, and kick you in the junk for tightening it with your hand. You need to get a wrench and do it right! No, an option is not to shim the antirotation tabs, the only option is to do that %#&$#&$#^&%&*) right!!!!
Improvised wrench, LOL Worked farily well, got it nice and snug now. Would an AR castle nut wrench improve upon this? 
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Posted: 5/31/2013 7:58:11 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By ritterbruder:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
As soon as I can figure out how to get a 1/7 or 1/8 lightweight 20" barrel I am making a hunting rifle with one of these. No love for the 18"? Not for this. For hunting longer is better, more for noise than velocity. I really like your hunting rifle idea. Ever thought of a 24" barrel? Or is the increase in velocity from 20" to 24" marginal? It's probably 90fps but then the length is getting to be too much. Besides 20" gives me expansion with a 70 TSX to 300m or so. |
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KS, USA
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Posted: 5/31/2013 9:08:25 PM EDT
[#43]
Sorry I didn't post my pic last week, my vltor mur upper receiver got lost in the mail and had to travel from coast to coast then back to the midwest to get to me.
Sorry for the crappy pic was in a rush. 
16" blackhole mid barrel. 14" rail, muzzle brake will be getting swapped for battle comp or similar. Might shorten to 14.5" after I finish fluting. Really need some panels to finish it off 
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Posted: 5/31/2013 10:56:47 PM EDT
[#44]
Centurion Arms CMR rails do not come with any rail sections, which is nice if you are like me and don't want extra stuff thrown in you aren't going to use. If I need rails, covers, spices, drink mixes or anything else, I'll buy them on my own. Nothing is free, it is all added into the cost of the products.
In this case, Centurion Arms will have a very low profile 1913 rail section out in a few months, but for anyone who wants to go cheap, get it now, or already has Magpul plastic rails floating around, this trick works great. The two hole polymer Magpul MOE section lines up perfectly with the CMR rail (the 3 screw does not). Using 8/32 screws, screw the polymer section in, and you are good to go! 
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Posted: 6/1/2013 4:44:45 PM EDT
[#45]
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UT, USA
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Posted: 6/2/2013 12:09:36 AM EDT
[#46]
What wrench/tool are you all using to install your CMR? I just got my 12" CMR and don't have the tools to install it. I thought I would have the tool figured out before the rail got here but it turns out this has been harder than I thought. When I look for tools that include that feature most are the worst kind of cheap (unspecified foreign country) combo wrench crap.
Is there a decent quality tool I can purchase, without spending a fortune, that will do the job? Also, There were no instructions included with my CMR. Since the CMR barrel nut does not interface with the gas tube I assume I can set it to whatever torque rating I want. What torque rating do I want? I have always just gone in the "range" wherever the nut lined up. If there is an ideal torque setting I don't know it. Thanks in advance guys. I am not a rich man and this rifle has been 3 years in the making. The funny thing is, being poor has made me spend more on the rifle! Back when I had money I always did "bang-for-the-buck" builds. Decent quality but nothing amazing. Now that I knew I could only sell the wife, and myself, on one rifle I have spent as much as two or three of my old rifles (all sold after an unfortunate life event that has led to our current financial state). It's the whole "If you could have only one" question brought to life. It HAS to be right. The last several months I have only needed the rail to finish the rifle but I could not find a single one that I was satisfied with. The quality was either too low, they had some objectionable feature, or they were missing a must-have feature. I was NOT going to build this with something that was not going to make me happy. As far as I am concerned, the CMR was born so that I could finish my rifle. It is almost exactly what I was dreaming of. Please help me so I can get this thing put together! After 3 years of patience I am all out! Thanks again. |
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Posted: 6/2/2013 1:14:59 AM EDT
[#47]
Mine didn't come with instructions either, but I torqued mine down to roughly 50 ft-lbs with my calibrated elbow.
I already had a spanner wrench in my tool box that worked, don't remember where I got it. I've heard of people using a castle nut wrench that's meant for the receiver extension too. My RRA wrench with its three teeth wouldn't fit on the nut, you'd need one with a single tooth. I thought of sticking something like a long allen wrench all the way through the holes and just tightening the hell out of it, but decided against it. Also, pics will be posted after I paint her next week
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/2/2013 1:37:38 AM EDT
[#48]
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KS, USA
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Posted: 6/2/2013 9:05:14 AM EDT
[#49]
Originally Posted By DWCOYOTE:
What wrench/tool are you all using to install your CMR? I just got my 12" CMR and don't have the tools to install it. I thought I would have the tool figured out before the rail got here but it turns out this has been harder than I thought. When I look for tools that include that feature most are the worst kind of cheap (unspecified foreign country) combo wrench crap. Is there a decent quality tool I can purchase, without spending a fortune, that will do the job? Also, There were no instructions included with my CMR. Since the CMR barrel nut does not interface with the gas tube I assume I can set it to whatever torque rating I want. What torque rating do I want? I have always just gone in the "range" wherever the nut lined up. If there is an ideal torque setting I don't know it. Thanks in advance guys. I am not a rich man and this rifle has been 3 years in the making. The funny thing is, being poor has made me spend more on the rifle! Back when I had money I always did "bang-for-the-buck" builds. Decent quality but nothing amazing. Now that I knew I could only sell the wife, and myself, on one rifle I have spent as much as two or three of my old rifles (all sold after an unfortunate life event that has led to our current financial state). It's the whole "If you could have only one" question brought to life. It HAS to be right. The last several months I have only needed the rail to finish the rifle but I could not find a single one that I was satisfied with. The quality was either too low, they had some objectionable feature, or they were missing a must-have feature. I was NOT going to build this with something that was not going to make me happy. As far as I am concerned, the CMR was born so that I could finish my rifle. It is almost exactly what I was dreaming of. Please help me so I can get this thing put together! After 3 years of patience I am all out! Thanks again. I used the DPMS wrench. Cost less than $25 when I bought it might be alittle higher now. 50 ft/ibs with a torque wrench. 
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Posted: 6/2/2013 9:40:05 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bronc]
[#50]
A lot of guys are using the DD Lite Rail wrench by filing down the 2 unneeded
tabs. |
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