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Posted: 1/20/2013 8:45:37 PM EDT
Hello,
I am assembling my first rifle with a PSA upper, and carbine length gas system, and have heard carbine length rifles are a little less reliable due to something with the bolt cycling too fast  . I was considering getting an H buffer to slow it down a bit, and hopefully increase reliability, but this will probably be a year or so down the road. My question is if I stake it now, and I want to swap out the buffer later, do I need to replace the end plate and castle nut? I ask because I was planning on running a magpul ASAP sling plate, and don't want to have to replace that too often.
Also, are there any opinions on replacing the buffer at all? Thanks for taking the time to help a noob |
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Posted: 1/20/2013 8:49:52 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Hello, I am assembling my first rifle with a PSA upper, and carbine length gas system, and have heard carbine length rifles are a little less reliable due to something with the bolt cycling too fast . I was considering getting an H buffer to slow it down a bit, and hopefully increase reliability, but this will probably be a year or so down the road. My question is if I stake it now, and I want to swap out the buffer later, do I need to replace the end plate and castle nut? I ask because I was planning on running a magpul ASAP sling plate, and don't want to have to replace that too often.
Also, are there any opinions on replacing the buffer at all? Thanks for taking the time to help a noob w/ the magpul sling plate u do not need to stake the castle nut. There is a square piece of meatal you insert into the castle nut/sling plate that prevents the castle nut from moving. I may be wrong, but I never staked my castle nut w/ magpul sling plate, thousand of rounds later it has not moved at all |
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Posted: 1/20/2013 9:09:56 PM EDT
[#2]
Ohh, ok, I didn't know what that peg was for! If that is what is it, that would seem to solve me issue.
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Posted: 1/20/2013 9:28:11 PM EDT
[#3]
The peg fits into the slot on the receiver extension, you still need to stake the castle nut. It's not a big deal, you just push a little metal from the plate into the notch on the castle nut (after it has been torqued to 40ft lb and you have double checked that the stock is straight).
You can swap buffers anytime without removing the end plate or receiver extension. Simply push down on the detent at the rear of the receiver and the spring pressure from the main spring will push the buffer out. Pull the main spring off of the old buffer and slide it on your new H buffer then slide the assembly back into the receiver extension. An H buffer is a good idea, they are standard issue on M4 carbines now.
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Posted: 1/20/2013 9:31:41 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
The peg fits into the slot on the receiver extension, you still need to stake the castle nut. It's not a big deal, you just push a little metal from the plate into the notch on the castle nut (after it has been torqued to 40ft lb and you have double checked that the stock is straight). You can swap buffers anytime without removing the end plate or receiver extension. Simply push down on the detent at the rear of the receiver and the spring pressure from the main spring will push the buffer out. Pull the main spring off of the old buffer and slide it on your new H buffer then slide the assembly back into the receiver extension. An H buffer is a good idea, they are standard issue on M4 carbines now. I am new to building, so I could be wrong, but I believe it is 40 INCH pounds, not foot pounds.... |
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Posted: 1/20/2013 9:35:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted: Quoted: The peg fits into the slot on the receiver extension, you still need to stake the castle nut. It's not a big deal, you just push a little metal from the plate into the notch on the castle nut (after it has been torqued to 40ft lb and you have double checked that the stock is straight). You can swap buffers anytime without removing the end plate or receiver extension. Simply push down on the detent at the rear of the receiver and the spring pressure from the main spring will push the buffer out. Pull the main spring off of the old buffer and slide it on your new H buffer then slide the assembly back into the receiver extension. An H buffer is a good idea, they are standard issue on M4 carbines now. I am new to building, so I could be wrong, but I believe it is 40 INCH pounds, not foot pounds.... 40 inch pounds is listed in the TM but it is a typo, the correct number is 40 ft lb. |
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Posted: 1/20/2013 9:56:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
The peg fits into the slot on the receiver extension, you still need to stake the castle nut. It's not a big deal, you just push a little metal from the plate into the notch on the castle nut (after it has been torqued to 40ft lb and you have double checked that the stock is straight). You can swap buffers anytime without removing the end plate or receiver extension. Simply push down on the detent at the rear of the receiver and the spring pressure from the main spring will push the buffer out. Pull the main spring off of the old buffer and slide it on your new H buffer then slide the assembly back into the receiver extension. An H buffer is a good idea, they are standard issue on M4 carbines now. Yes this..Just properly staked my build I did last year..Pretty easy w/ a starret punch. They do make staking tools specifially for this but kinda pricey. Punch works good, just takes a few whacks. You can use some aluminum black to re-blue the plate & castle nut to prevent rust if u shoot in the rain or live where it is humid..I guess I was lucky my castle nut did not back out! ..thanks for the correct info jaqufrost |
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Posted: 1/20/2013 10:07:18 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The peg fits into the slot on the receiver extension, you still need to stake the castle nut. It's not a big deal, you just push a little metal from the plate into the notch on the castle nut (after it has been torqued to 40ft lb and you have double checked that the stock is straight). You can swap buffers anytime without removing the end plate or receiver extension. Simply push down on the detent at the rear of the receiver and the spring pressure from the main spring will push the buffer out. Pull the main spring off of the old buffer and slide it on your new H buffer then slide the assembly back into the receiver extension. An H buffer is a good idea, they are standard issue on M4 carbines now. I am new to building, so I could be wrong, but I believe it is 40 INCH pounds, not foot pounds.... 40 inch pounds is listed in the TM but it is a typo, the correct number is 40 ft lb. Copy that! Thanks! |
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Posted: 1/20/2013 10:44:40 PM EDT
[#8]
M4, H buffer.
M4A1, HH buffer. |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 12:04:54 AM EDT
[#9]
Ok, so since I have never done it, but now want to after reading this, is there a wrong way to stake the castle nut? Or, is it literally just staking the top of the plate into the small square area on the castle nut
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Posted: 1/21/2013 12:57:43 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
M4, H buffer. M4A1, HH buffer. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is an HH the same as H2 buffer? Also, what is the difference between m4 and m4a1? |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 1:28:53 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Ok, so since I have never done it, but now want to after reading this, is there a wrong way to stake the castle nut? Or, is it literally just staking the top of the plate into the small square area on the castle nut yep, that's it! 
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Posted: 1/21/2013 2:14:39 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ok, so since I have never done it, but now want to after reading this, is there a wrong way to stake the castle nut? Or, is it literally just staking the top of the plate into the small square area on the castle nut yep, that's it! Ha, thanks! |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 2:22:33 AM EDT
[#13]
First off, that reliability issue with carbines has to do with automatic fire. If your gun runs fine with a standard carbine buffer (and full power ammo), don't sweat it,
The Magoul ASAP plate is HARD. It will take a lot more effort to displace material from the ASAP plate, but "the hive mind" here says it's possible. Make sure you properly torque the castle nut (the small notches go forward) at 30-40 foot-pounds, then secure the receiver very firmly in a vise before you get ready to whack on it, |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 4:31:26 AM EDT
[#14]
I didn’t know aluminum black worked on steel??
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Posted: 1/21/2013 4:45:50 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
First off, that reliability issue with carbines has to do with automatic fire. If your gun runs fine with a standard carbine buffer (and full power ammo), don't sweat it, The Magoul ASAP plate is HARD. It will take a lot more effort to displace material from the ASAP plate, but "the hive mind" here says it's possible. Make sure you properly torque the castle nut (the small notches go forward) at 30-40 foot-pounds, then secure the receiver very firmly in a vise before you get ready to whack on it, This. Your gun will run fine. |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 7:19:38 AM EDT
[#16]
Those end plates are pretty hard steel. I used a 3/8 punch and a 32 oz. ball peen to do this one. It took more than a few good whacks
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/longbranch44/AR%2015/rtsidestkclose.jpg |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 7:37:01 AM EDT
[#17]
Another tip, when capturing the buffer retaining pin it should look something like this:
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/longbranch44/AR%2015/buffretpinfixed3.jpg And not like this: http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd23/longbranch44/AR%2015/buffretcloseup.jpg |
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