Gidds,
Scope mounting is no problem at all, assuming that you have the allen wrenches or proper screw drivers.
I would heartily suggest that you do this operation, as a 16 power scope is probably gonna be pretty picky about eye position, and you will want to get this correct. A day on a prairie dog town with a scope poorly mounted will turn into a very long day.
First, you will want to mount your base/rings on the flat top with the top of the rings off. I have no experience with the Larue, so bear with me on this one, although it should go similarly. With the lower portion on the gun, set the scope in the base to check for clearance of rear irons if you have them. If they are clear, then what you want to do is set the eye relief, roughly. This is simply laying the scope in the open rings to make sure that the turrets will clear the rings, and you have the eye relief that you want. Once you have checked the eye relief, and are sure that everything will work, remove the scope. Wipe all of the surfaces with a solvent to remove any grease or gunk. Set the scope back in the lower base, and add the top halves. Start all of the screws, and tighten until you can still move the scope, but it is not excessively loose.
Now the "hard" part, getting it level/plumb. The trick is to get the flat top level, and the cross hairs plumb to the horizon. A vise can work, or a bipod, anything that can hold the gun steady. A string line hanging from the cieling, or the corner of a wall or a reticle leveler can all work to get the crosshairs plumb.
Now you can tighten the screws. Generally, I like to tighten them all evenly, keeping the ring gap about even on both sides. It is very important to have the proper allen wrench or screwdriver tip for slotted screws. Just go slow. I like to say use the universal torque setting, one quarter turn before they strip, but you may not find that funny, while doing it. You do not have to go crazy with the torque, as the 223 is not hard on scopes, even big 16x scopes. You can distort a scope tube with high quaility rings and excessive force. A lot of folks like to use loctite on the screws, and I do as well. I would just suggest that you not loctite them until you have fired the gun enough to know that it is good to go. You can always do this later, by just loctiting one screw at a time, one ring at a time. And, never red loctite, unless you want to have to heat things up, and a "little dab will do ya" .
An easy check on the fit after shooting is to mark or record the gap distance between the front or back of a ring, and a point on the scope, like the turret base, or the line where the front or back of the scope bell, before you shoot it. If the scope shifts, it will move forward in the rings (as the gun shifts to the rear from recoil).
You should have no problems doing this if you are only a little handy. For the price of taking it to a gunsmith, you can probably buy the reticle leveler device, which is pretty cheap. You did not say whether or not this was your first scope, but I will throw this out. It is pretty easy to get things on paper by doing the poor mans laser bore sighting. At the range open the action on the gun so that you can see down the barrel. hold the gun very steady (perhaps a bipod and sandbag), and rest the gun so that you can see down your barrel to the target. carefully raise your head up to the scope, and check where the cross hairs are at. Make adjustments, and you should be pretty close to being on paper for a standard size target.
Good luck,
Craig