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Posted: 9/8/2009 8:13:12 PM EST
It's my personal preference to have my black evil rifles in that same black color throughout.

Will a Duracoat finish hold up on an AR stainless steel barrel?
Link Posted: 9/8/2009 8:33:06 PM EST
Link Posted: 9/8/2009 8:43:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/8/2009 8:48:06 PM EST by Losing_Streak]
I believe so, but IIRC the barrel must be bead blasted for the paint to work to full effect, somebody confirm this?. I have also heard that KG Koting works good with SS barrels.

ETA: Check out the Refinishing Section, you might get a definitive answer in there.
Link Posted: 9/8/2009 9:03:29 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/8/2009 9:08:22 PM EST by riflecrank]
I Duracoat stainless barrels all the time. Duracoat works well, and is pretty tough. The key to applying Duracoat is surface prep. I blast the surface with aluminum oxide and then use a spray degreaser/cleaner. Apply in thin coats and allow the Duracoat to flash over between coats. You can use an air brush or a mini spray gun and get outstanding results. Duracoat Tactical black matches most anodized AR parts pretty well.
Link Posted: 9/9/2009 5:16:42 AM EST
I was told it's best to prep the surface first. Could somebody please tell me how to go about useing Aluminum oxide. I'm sure if I went into a Home Depot store to ask for a bag or Aluminum Oxide, or asked them what tools to use for it, they wouldn't have clue.

I have a 125 PSI large upright air compressor. Do I just need to buy some kind of an automotive sand blasting gun that I may find at a typical Harnor Freight chinese tools place? (I don't want to get carried away with a metal sand blasting work station, since I may never use sand blasting tools ever again)
Link Posted: 9/9/2009 7:51:21 AM EST
Link Posted: 9/9/2009 4:59:44 PM EST
I use this for small projects. If you look around, you can probably find it for $40.
Use 120 grit aluminum oxide or sand as the blasting media. Bead blasting will give more of a polish, you want the finish rougher to provide a good surface for the Duracoat.
Link Posted: 9/9/2009 5:23:15 PM EST
I've used Alumihyde on a stainless barrel with great results.
Link Posted: 9/12/2009 11:09:36 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/12/2009 11:11:51 AM EST by edwin907]
1200 degree with ceramic black header paint ($5.95) applied by directions on the can including baking in the over for a few hours.
Only surface prep on the MRP 16" SS barrel was wiping with acetone.
No wear, flaking, pretty much can't scrape it off.



Link Posted: 9/13/2009 5:06:43 PM EST
Originally Posted By edwin907:
1200 degree with ceramic black header paint ($5.95) applied by directions on the can including baking in the over for a few hours.
Only surface prep on the MRP 16" SS barrel was wiping with acetone.
No wear, flaking, pretty much can't scrape it off.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z238/edwin907/MRP.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z238/edwin907/IWALd.jpg


Looks nice. What brand of paint did you use?
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 7:03:57 AM EST
Don't Bead Blast,

Glass Beads will not give the Duracoat anything to bite to

Sandblasting will etch the metal, glass just dents it making it smooth.
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 7:53:05 AM EST
Use etching primer,then Duracoat.
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 11:59:35 AM EST
Allright, now I'm getting confused! I hate starting a project and finding out when I'm done that its ass backwards and won't work properly.

I don't know an "Alumihyde", to a "bead" blast (what is "beads" anyway?, to a "sand" blast, to my ass or my elbow. Which one of these products will produce the proper rough surface I need with the least priming or prep work if possible. And who sells the stuff? ..... Can I go to an auto paint supply place locally, or is it industrial use stuff that I'll need to shop on the web?
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 1:54:11 PM EST
Duracoat recommends blasting the bare surface w/120 grit aluminum oxide.
No primer is needed or recommended.
If you have an air compressor, the small sandblaster I posted above will work just fine for the prep work.
Use a degreaser prior to blasting, and after, if you touch the surface.
Use masking tape to protect any surface you don't want etched.

I believe Midway carries aluminum oxide blasting media. If you only have 1 barrel to do, I would just use sand that you can pick up at Home Depot, etc. Or you can go to a nearby wash, (if you live in the desert) and fill a bucket (be sure to screen it). I blasted a Mini 14 like this years ago and it worked beautifully. Just wear a mask and goggles so you won't get silicosis!

Link Posted: 9/14/2009 4:18:36 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/15/2009 2:14:57 AM EST by shadowcop]
I've used Aluma-hyde II on AR's, AK's and 870's wit great results. All I do is wipe it down with acetone and paint it. Only downside is it takes about a week to fully cure. But when it does, it stays. You can get it from Brownells.
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 5:44:57 PM EST
I assume "alumihyde" is aluminum oxide. I looked "alumihyde" up on google and saw Brownell's is selling it. So I assume it's a marketing name for a specific product that they sell.

Ok, by George I think I got it. Even if an occassional input comes along on this thread to stray me off course, the last two posts stated here, (along with a couple of other posts), is pretty cut-and- dry and easy enough for me to follow. Sounds pretty hard to screw up if I just blast the thing with one of the mentioned alumi-products, and clean the barrel with acetone before I spray it!

Thanks guys.
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 7:09:29 PM EST
Alumahyde is just another brand of paint marketed for use on aluminum


Aluminum oxide is the media you use in a 'sand' blaster to etch the metal to give the paint something to bite too.
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 7:11:22 PM EST
Hell, if you just want it black then hit with some BBQ black paint, or Header paint.. something made to take the heat.
Link Posted: 9/14/2009 10:08:26 PM EST
Why not do a black oxide treatment? Kind of looks alot like parkerized.
Link Posted: 9/15/2009 2:15:44 AM EST
Let me back up. It'sAluma-Hyde II. Epoxy based.
Link Posted: 9/15/2009 2:35:54 AM EST
I did the barrel on my remmy 700 5r with OD duracoat and it came out fine...I just wiped it down with acetone first and then sprayed...the only spot it flaked a little is at the muzzle from the blast. I did it about 5 years ago and still looks great.
Link Posted: 9/15/2009 8:09:14 PM EST
Link Posted: 9/15/2009 9:23:34 PM EST
Really for the money....alumihyde II is as good as it gets when looking for durability and ease of use.....prep is important as it will be in any other finishing products. If you live in the south like i do, and if you use it over the next month or 2....2 to 3 days is the longest it should take to fully cure. I use alumihyde !! only on barrels and have had outstanding results for being me and not a re finisher.

Ps: if u roll with hyde II.....even light coats....no longer than 15 min. b/t coats (VERY IMPORTANT), once the curing process starts just remember no add-ons. If u want to add you will have to sand and re-prep and redo. However you can wait a full week to be positive it has cured, and then add by lightly sanding and then applying.
Link Posted: 9/16/2009 5:04:49 AM EST
Thanks guys. This is the thread that never ends.

If I could only get this much help on the "Build It Yourself" where I currently have a thread and have already had to beg for a reply.

Maybe I'll let that die, and run it here instead.
Link Posted: 9/20/2009 11:22:27 AM EST
Parkerizing/black oxide treatment doesn't work on stainless steel so you have to bead blast (120 grit Aluminum Oxide as others have stated). If you have a carbon steel barrel then parkerizing is recommended prior to Duracoating. It also adheres well to anodized aluminum.

Originally Posted By eric10mm:
Originally Posted By hdbiker1:
Why not do a black oxide treatment? Kind of looks alot like parkerized.


Can I easily do that in my kitchen?


Link Posted: 9/20/2009 5:27:05 PM EST
Originally Posted By VaniB:
Thanks guys. This is the thread that never ends.

If I could only get this much help on the "Build It Yourself" where I currently have a thread and have already had to beg for a reply.

Maybe I'll let that die, and run it here instead.


Looks to me like you did get an answer



"To remove the old barrel nut from the DPMS upper receiver you will need the lower pictured wrench (unless you don't care about saving it). The upper wrench is for AR-15s.

You definitely need to use the DPMS LR-308 upper receiver action block to hold everything while you remove the barrel."
Link Posted: 9/20/2009 8:19:37 PM EST
Try KG gunkote or something else.
Duracoat is not very heat resistant and will burn or peel off your barrel if you get it hot enough, ask me how I know.
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