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1/22/2020 12:12:56 PM
Posted: 9/18/2009 10:09:34 AM EST
Guys,

Pretty new to AR15.com, but thanks for all the useful information so far.

I have quick question regarding possibly modifiying my Bushy Varminter. I have tubular free floating forend on the rifle and I was interested in mounting a detachable bipod. However, I'd rather not take the easy way out and attach to the barrel directly as I'm sure I'd kill my accuracy. So my second thought was to drill and tap a Picatiny rail onto the bottom of the free float tubular forend.

However, I have a few questions:

1) Is this a worth while modification, or would I be better pressed just replacing the free float forend with one that has rails built in? I kindof wanted to preserve the look of the tubular forend. I like the look and I am comfortable with it..... oh and I'm cheap.

2) If it can be done, do you guys have any recommendations for a rail system that is radiused on the back side in order to fit to the round forend?

3) While I'm at it, Any recommendations for a bipod?

Thanks guys,
MSax
Link Posted: 9/18/2009 11:41:25 AM EST
Why do you need QD bi-pod on that kind of gun?? They do fold up ya know?? Just get the sling swivle mounted harris bi-pod and be done ... BUT ...
I have the same rifle ...with the stock tubular aluminum handguards ... I do not like those handguards ... when I first got the rifle the handguards were canted to the left ... I loosened the index nut and then hand tighten it and then its straight but as soon as I torque the index nut a little it cants on me again ..... they really do not seem solid enough to me to think about mounting stuff to them ... they're gone ASAP. Just my .02
Link Posted: 9/18/2009 12:06:17 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/18/2009 12:16:43 PM EST by PR361]
As a fellow cheapscate, I aready did what you're talking about to a DPMS elcheapo freefloat tube. I just bought a 4hole, 6" rail with a vertical grip for $ 7 off ebay(nice heavy aluminum piece for the money), marked the centerline, mocked up the rail with rubber bands and marked the holes, drilled and tapped 'em, and mounted the rail. Works great, I run a harris bipod on a yhm mount on the front and a cheapo vertical grip on the rear. 'Coarse if you don't want a rail, you could just drill and tap for a sling swivel stud for the bipod. I don't think my rail was radiused, and Walmart sells a pretty good looking copy of the Harris bipod for around $35. Can't speak to the function, but it looks the same. Great design. I bought the tube off the EE for $30, had my neighbor mill out the finger grooves for air circulation and a cool look, the yhm on the EE for $10, Harris at a yard sale for $40, and the $7 for the rail and grip, so less than the price if a railed free float tube got me the whole deal.
Link Posted: 9/18/2009 3:47:11 PM EST
I am eventually going to do this to my model 1 freefloat tube. Eventually...
Link Posted: 9/18/2009 4:35:29 PM EST
Make sure the tube is TIGHT, locktite it if you have to. Drill a hole in the bottom. Put a sling stud through the hole and thread it into a backing plate. Most FF tubes aren't thick enough to reliably hold threads. Mount your Harris. Done. Cheap. Solid.
Link Posted: 9/18/2009 5:26:41 PM EST
+1 on the backing plate if you just put in the stud. Bipods have a lot of leverage and will pull the stud out of the aluminum. Not a worry if you do the rail and spread the load over 4 screws.
Link Posted: 9/19/2009 10:44:02 AM EST
Thanks for the advice guys!

MSax
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