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10/30/2020 2:42:12 PM
Posted: 1/3/2004 2:18:13 PM EST
I have heard from numorous sources that "Break Free" is the way to go for cleaning, lubricating, and protecting ones AR15.  I have also heard that "Gun Scrubber" is NOT the thing thing to be using for flushing out debris, gunk etc.  What I have been told is that I can use "Break Free" to do it all.  The thinking behind not using "Gun Scrubber" is that it will eat at loctite for example (I have a Jewell Trigger, that I loctited the trigger poundage set screw).  If I use "Gun Scrubber" on the AR, I am under the impression if I get it on the loctite, it will eat at the loctite, thus the trigger will get out of adjustment.

If I just use "Break Free", will I sufficiently remove grime?  I have noticed that "Break Free" does not evaporate, so if I have excess in the gun workings, will it create any problems for me?

I know that some people use "Simple Green" for cleaning grime out of their guns, but apparently the army is not using Simple Green anymore because they found that it harmed the finish of the AR15.  I don't know if this is true or not, but just wanted to mention it.  I worry about "Simple Green" not completely drying in the nooks and crannies of my AR, thus creating a rust problem.

Please offer you input.

Thank you!!
Link Posted: 1/3/2004 3:09:51 PM EST
While I like Break Free in the field and for pre/post cleaning ... myself like something more of a solvent to flush everyting out (in my case mineral spirts and a little ATF is the solvent of choice when can work with doors/fan vents open ... MPro7 in the very cold and inside).

Would also look at MPro7 if you have only one or three rifles to clean.

Simple Green and similar products may attack aluminum in time.
Link Posted: 1/3/2004 3:45:58 PM EST
What is ATF and MPro 7?  Where do I get it?

Link Posted: 1/3/2004 8:49:12 PM EST
ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Brownells used to sell MPro7, not sure if they still do.

Gunscrubber would be fine for use on your upper, just make sure you have it detached from your lower, and that you properly lube everything afterwards to prevent oxidation.  I agree that it probably isn't a good idea to use it on your lower/FCG.

Breakfree will work in all three roles mentioned, but it works best as a protectant, with lubrication and cleaning taking a back seat somewhat.  A lot of people are switching over to FP-10 from breakfree because it is a better cleaner and lube, especially a better lube.  Still, Breakfree is a much better lube then straight up mineral/3in1/motor oil, in my opinion.  For me, the jury is still out on wheather FP-10 is a better protectant than Breakfree, there is a lot of empirical evidence that suggests Breakfree is an awesome protectant against corrosion.

It should be said that Hoppe's, MPro7, or any other nitro and/or copper solvent will remove fouling easier and faster than Breakfree or FP-10 CLP.  The downside is that the solvents only work as solvents, and they may be a bit more reactive.  General rule is that you don't mix solvents since that can create new compounds that may be corrosive or eat steel and aluminum.  Hoppes No. 9 is a good, low-reactive solvent that does a good job at removing carbon but not copper.

Everyone has there own system for cleaning things.  Personally, I use Hoppe's to clean the bore (use a copper solvent maybe once a year to remove any copper buildup) and use either Breakfree or FP-10 to loosen up the carbon on the bolt/carrier and to clean the inside of the upper receiver.  Will then use Gun scrubber or brake cleaner to wash off all the loosened up gunk on the bolt and carrier.  Re-lube with CLP and call it good.  Don't bother cleaning the lower and FCG since those parts never get fouled.
Link Posted: 1/4/2004 7:18:23 AM EST
Does anyone use Ed's Red as a cleaner followed by a CLP to lube and protect?
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