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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/12/2003 11:09:15 AM EST
My new 16" car started short stroking yesterday,I pulled it down and found that the key had come loose on the carrier. Everything looks fine,so I was thinking of using some locktight on the screws and restaking. Is there anything I should know before I do this!

Link Posted: 7/12/2003 11:16:07 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/12/2003 11:21:27 AM EST by AMOS]
The allen cap screws should have been staked on with a center punch after they were torqued down to specs. Amos Basicly you use a hammer and the center punch to push the outer rim of the allen cap screw out into the key. Most people stake the cap screws to the key in 3 different places. Someone here can point you in the right direction to an online military manual.
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 11:32:24 AM EST
Yes I have the Marine Corp Manuel,I read about the staking, but was thinking that locktight also wouldn't be a bad idea, what do you think? (In congunction with the staking)
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 11:40:51 AM EST
[b] Good idea . Just make sure you use the [blue]blue lock tight [/blue]. Good Luck SaFe ShOoTiNg Jerry [):)][/b]
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 12:45:01 PM EST
Thx for the info guy's!
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 1:49:13 PM EST
Solvents will break down the loctite over time. Stake it, that is all you need to do and it is easy.
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 3:58:42 PM EST
This thread is a mirror of one that ran recently. [b]Torque the screws, and stake in 3 places real well[/b]........... The heat and oil/solvent will render the Loctite useless.
Link Posted: 7/12/2003 4:44:40 PM EST
Degrease the screws and holes, Locktite, torque the screws down, and stake if you want. I bought a new carrier from Bushmaster at Camp Perry two years ago. 300 rounds later, the two screws came loose. They were both staked correctly; however, the sides of the screws had "scratches" only on the surface, not pronounced knurling that any staking could grab onto. If the staking is done, it must be able to grab into the surface of the screw.
Link Posted: 7/13/2003 4:10:32 AM EST
Thx again all, sorry for the mirror thread. I do run searches before I post questions, but came up with nothing.
Link Posted: 7/15/2003 8:09:40 AM EST
Before I would start playing with lock tite I would just buy a couple of new screws replace the old ones and then restake. If by chance the old screws have stretched lock tite ain't gonna help and it's not worth trying to nickel and dime on screws that cost less than a couple of bucks.
Link Posted: 7/15/2003 8:59:31 AM EST
...and if you ever have to remove the carrier key again and break off the heads because you put loc-tite in the carrier. By staking, you are putting the lock on the heads and not the threads and greatly reduce the chances you will break the heads off.
Link Posted: 7/15/2003 4:48:13 PM EST
You know, the comments about Loctite breaking down under heat and oil interest me, because I've have a Loctite assembled piece on an AR for about 25 years now, and it's still going strong. I built up a clone of the XM177E2 flash suppressor, by using one of the early style suppressors, that you can still get from Bushmaster, thinning and lengthening the rebate at the rear , and sliding an E2 diameter tube over the rebate section. The overlay was secured with green Loctite, which is (was?) the industrial grade. Now in 25 years the thing has seen more than it's share of lube, including at the seam of the overlay, and a pretty fair amount of heat, especially from muzzle blast on the inside of the brake, and it's still going strong. Maybe it's the fact that it was the industrial geade stuff, or maybe early Loctite was more heat resistant? Oh well, just hope it stays together for another 25 years[:D]
Link Posted: 7/15/2003 6:02:13 PM EST
Acetone dissolves loctite Some solvents contain acetone
Link Posted: 7/16/2003 2:58:10 AM EST
After reading this, I checked and my Bushmaster is staked in 2 places and my Armalite is only staked in 1. Should I be concerned about this?
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