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Posted: 4/12/2006 6:06:46 PM EST
HI all does anyone on the forum had any reason to refinish the barrel as the finish wares off or get or something happens to damage the finish? and what would be the best thing to use, all 4 of my rifles are bushmasters they have the dark matte black look, some say gunkote? any ideas would be helpful thanks much mike b
Link Posted: 4/12/2006 6:45:43 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/12/2006 6:47:49 PM EST by Lon_Moer]
Bushmaster barrels have a manganese phosphate parkerizing finish. Barrels can be re-parkerized, in fact I do mine on the kitchen stove.
Link Posted: 4/12/2006 7:29:29 PM EST
HOW DO YOU DO IT ?? is there a kit to buy, I like to do as much as I can when it comes to my firearms, you know how it is I dont like to send my guns away, clue me i if you would thanks mike b
Link Posted: 4/12/2006 8:25:10 PM EST

Originally Posted By zerofixer:
HI all does anyone on the forum had any reason to refinish the barrel as the finish wares off or get or something happens to damage the finish? and what would be the best thing to use, all 4 of my rifles are bushmasters they have the dark matte black look, some say gunkote? any ideas would be helpful thanks much mike b



Ive used brownells gunkote, it works great. You can do it at home in your oven. all directions are included on the can

Make sure and practice spraying, its a little harder to use than spay paint (more runny) apply only light coats at a time, wait 30 minutes between coats.

Shake can well

Calvin
Link Posted: 4/13/2006 4:10:26 AM EST

Originally Posted By zerofixer:
HOW DO YOU DO IT ?? is there a kit to buy, I like to do as much as I can when it comes to my firearms, you know how it is I dont like to send my guns away, clue me i if you would thanks mike b



You will need to sand blast your barrel assembly. The manganese phosphate solution is available from Brownells and comes with good instructions. You will need a stainless steel container to hold the solution and large enough to fit the barrel into. You will also need a way to heat the solution to 190 degrees and a way to monitor temperature. I use a automotive temp gauge.

Here is my rig, I used a old gas fire place burner and fabbed up a base and had a stainless tank made at a local fab shop.

Link Posted: 4/13/2006 2:34:49 PM EST
i park my barrels. the last time i parked it came out a lighter grey than before. i used a new batch of solution cause i needed more depth this time. i was doing a cannon barrel. i usually use steel wool to age it but i used atomized steel this sime. i parked alot of parts so it should of aged anyway i guess but it was still a lighter grey. i have used a pre dip of diluted muratic acid before but i gout away from that. i stained the wifes countertop. got any sugestions on why it is lighter. i did mess up when mixing it and added the park solution while it was cold and then heated it up to the aging temp.. i think 140 degrees. whould that have an effect. it says to bring it to temp then add the solution.
Link Posted: 4/13/2006 4:42:50 PM EST

Originally Posted By machinehead:
i park my barrels. the last time i parked it came out a lighter grey than before. i used a new batch of solution cause i needed more depth this time. i was doing a cannon barrel. i usually use steel wool to age it but i used atomized steel this sime. i parked alot of parts so it should of aged anyway i guess but it was still a lighter grey. i have used a pre dip of diluted muratic acid before but i gout away from that. i stained the wifes countertop. got any sugestions on why it is lighter. i did mess up when mixing it and added the park solution while it was cold and then heated it up to the aging temp.. i think 140 degrees. whould that have an effect. it says to bring it to temp then add the solution.



Sometimes it the color is dependant on the alloy of the steel.
Link Posted: 4/13/2006 5:09:33 PM EST
comp1911 thanks for the look see I can get hold of a tank i got to figure how to heat it! I might be able to use a old grill cut the ends to fit the tank or something like that. How do you keep the chemical out of the barrel, wont it hurt the chrome plating inside? I have a glass bead cabinet, to clean up the parts and barrel, do you know how the gunkote stuff holds up? I this past week I had my barrel threaded the gunsmith has an old lathe and uses roller bearings near the end of the muzzle end of the barrel as he cuts the threads, it left marks around the barrel a band 5/16 inch wide around the barrel, I know so many questions! but thank you for help in this matter any ideas on the gunkote let me know thank you mmuch MIKE B
Link Posted: 4/13/2006 5:23:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/14/2006 9:12:21 AM EST by machinehead]
park wont hurt the chrome at all. i still plug the barrels just to keep it out but it dont hurt. i blew the plugs out of a shotgun from the expanding air this weekend. the barrel was still just as shiny. it didnt touch it at all. i think ill quit plugging chrome ones. ill still do regular steel unlined barrels though.

edited for spelling
Link Posted: 4/14/2006 7:10:08 AM EST
Same here on the chrome, park won't mess with the chrome but I still plug the bore with the bore plugs from Brownells. Don't for get to plug the gas port.

Unlined barrels must be plugged.
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