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Posted: 7/3/2008 4:55:55 PM EDT
Ok, I am looking for the best, toughest adhesive I can find. I am intending to permanently attach the picatinny rail to the top of my 930 SPX after I machine it to be a bit shorter. If I do this right, the screws will be locator pins only, and this will never come off.

My options seem to range from hardware store epoxy to acraglass epoxy to pink CA to RC tire glue to damn if I know. Everything seems to have pro-s and cons. Any suggestions?
Link Posted: 7/3/2008 7:45:50 PM EDT
JB-weld might be the ticket.
Link Posted: 7/4/2008 8:08:55 AM EDT
My vote would be acraglass... Strong enough to barrel bed benchrest rifles.. That means they glue the barrel to the stock. no action screws!
Link Posted: 7/4/2008 9:45:16 AM EDT
You've not heard of this

http://www.asseenontv.com/prod-pages/mi_t_putty_ontv.html?gid=

in all seriousness JB weld should do the trick, just make sure to mix it good and even.
Link Posted: 7/4/2008 10:30:17 AM EDT
Slowest setting JB weld, 2 part epoxy FTW. You can even machine the stuff when it sets.
Link Posted: 7/5/2008 7:53:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/5/2008 7:54:04 PM EDT by USMC223]

Originally Posted By scoutrifleshooter:
My vote would be acraglass... Strong enough to barrel bed benchrest rifles.. That means they glue the barrel to the stock. no action screws!


Link Posted: 7/6/2008 8:05:13 AM EDT

Originally Posted By USMC223:

Originally Posted By scoutrifleshooter:
My vote would be acraglass... Strong enough to barrel bed benchrest rifles.. That means they glue the barrel to the stock. no action screws!




Adhering the action to the stock with epoxy is very common in the benchrest community. So put away your face and get out your face
Link Posted: 7/6/2008 1:09:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By glock24:

Originally Posted By USMC223:

Originally Posted By scoutrifleshooter:
My vote would be acraglass... Strong enough to barrel bed benchrest rifles.. That means they glue the barrel to the stock. no action screws!




Adhering the action to the stock with epoxy is very common in the benchrest community. So put away your face and get out your face


Glock24 you stated it correctly, adhearing the ACTION to the stock not the barrel as stated before. We want the barrel free floated.
Link Posted: 7/6/2008 1:41:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/6/2008 1:51:00 PM EDT by barrysuperhawk]
Wow who'd have thought JB weld was good for anything but mufflers?

Can it be had in Black?

Link Posted: 7/6/2008 4:44:52 PM EDT

Originally Posted By barrysuperhawk:
Wow who'd have thought JB weld was good for anything but mufflers?

Can it be had in Black?



I use JB Weld on a wide variety of mediums. It's always my go-to adhesive.
Link Posted: 7/7/2008 7:36:27 AM EDT
Try Fusor adhesive. Chevy glues it's truck doors with the stuff and the final bond is stronger than the metal.
Link Posted: 7/7/2008 9:02:21 AM EDT
+1,and it's great for pranks also .

Originally Posted By TANGOCHASER:
Try Fusor adhesive. Chevy glues it's truck doors with the stuff and the final bond is stronger than the metal.
Link Posted: 7/7/2008 11:58:36 AM EDT
JB Weld is dark grey already, try adding dye or paint to the mixture on a test surface to see if that would work. Otherwise, you could paint over it after it sets. If you wipe off the excess at the seams it won't be too visible anyway.
Link Posted: 7/7/2008 2:43:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/7/2008 3:13:33 PM EDT by scoutrifleshooter]
Go back thru your older gunsmithings books!!! YES they did bed the barrel ( for about 10" ) and float every thing else! Just because you haven't seen it doesn't mean it hasn't been done!!!! http://www.rifleshootermag.com/gunsmithing/bedding_0304/index.html

Apologies anyone????
Link Posted: 7/7/2008 4:05:54 PM EDT
Apologies? Seriously? Here? Have you not been reading here long?
Link Posted: 7/7/2008 4:12:55 PM EDT
Yeah I have... It's an honor thing! But proving that they were in the wrong is is enough for me. I would still go with acra-glass!
Link Posted: 7/7/2008 4:45:51 PM EDT
Ok now I'm seriously only kidding here because this picture cracks me up. I am in no way ridiculing anyone. (and yes, I know I'm going stright to hell for laughing at this)

Link Posted: 7/7/2008 4:47:05 PM EDT
Its acceptable to bed the first 2" or so of the barrel before the taper begins. You want the barrel free floated, and bedding that much of the barrel is just to give some more rigidity and to dampen some of the harmonic vibration. Any more than that and it defeats the purpose.
Link Posted: 7/8/2008 5:14:24 AM EDT
height=8
Originally Posted By scoutrifleshooter:
My vote would be acraglass... Strong enough to barrel bed benchrest rifles.. That means they glue the barrel to the stock. no action screws!


Just because its bedded in the stock is not the same as being glued to the stock. It is bedded so it is uniformly supported, but it is not adhered. The barreled action is still removable from a glass bedded rifle. If you glued it to the stock you would have to destroy the stock everytime you made a trigger adjustment. And you still use action screws to hold the gun together after it is glass bedded.
Link Posted: 7/8/2008 5:43:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/8/2008 8:22:30 AM EDT by scoutrifleshooter]
go to the web site above and below... glueing them together is the whole idea!

http://www.mpirifles.com/examples.htm
Link Posted: 7/8/2008 9:54:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/8/2008 10:12:34 AM EDT by jmanning]
Why dont you go here and read the instructions written by the folks that make acraglass bedding you describe in such intimate detail.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=641

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/General/DisplayPDF.aspx?f=Inst-101+Acraglas+gel.pdf

Even the link you posted earlier up in the thread shows a picture of an action removed from a glass bedded stock. I am not saying someone has not glued a gun together for whatever reason, but you dont do it with acraglass, on purpose anyway. Once the acraglass sets up, a smart wack will break the reciever and the bedding apart. All it is is enhanced fiberglass resin. It certainly would not hold up to firings without the action screws in place for a prolonged period of time. All acraglass does is form a hard reverse image of the action so it does not have any play in it, similar to an aluminum bedding block, only more exact. I have seen bedding jobs done with acraglass where the metal was not prepped properly and it took a pretty good deal of mess to get them apart, often resulting in a damaged stock, but I have never seen one glued with acraglas on purpose. That is not to say is has not been done, but that is not the intended use of acraglas.
Link Posted: 7/12/2008 3:06:44 PM EDT
Do a search for 3M products, VHB (very high bond).
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 5:23:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/19/2008 5:25:21 PM EDT by NAVYRETIRED1]
In the bench rest world rifles are often "glued in" for a permanet rigidity. They really do have to have the stock cut off if they want to change anything. The next time you use Acra-bedor weld or glass don't put the parting compound on the metal and see if you need action screws to hold it together.NOT
Link Posted: 7/19/2008 6:28:13 PM EDT
JB Weld , I woudn't use the kwik. I have always had good luck with the standard JB weld.

Or Devcon steel putty. I used this stuff to bed and action on one of my rifles. It's pretty tuff stuff!
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 9:17:54 AM EDT

Originally Posted By GONIF:
+1,and it's great for pranks also .

Originally Posted By TANGOCHASER:
Try Fusor adhesive. Chevy glues it's truck doors with the stuff and the final bond is stronger than the metal.


+2
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 3:59:47 PM EDT

Originally Posted By AnimalMother556:

Originally Posted By GONIF:
+1,and it's great for pranks also .

Originally Posted By TANGOCHASER:
Try Fusor adhesive. Chevy glues it's truck doors with the stuff and the final bond is stronger than the metal.


+2


Where does one find Fusor adhesive?
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