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1/22/2020 12:12:56 PM
Posted: 9/17/2009 6:49:18 AM EST
What to do if I am in between to holes ???

I mean.. to allow the gas tube in, my barrel nut is not tight enough.. if I try to get to the next hole, i cannot.. I would force and break something, and i am not even sure to reach that point..

is there a tip here ? I am kinda lost ! it's my 6th AR, and never had this happening..

ps: the barrel nut is from my KAC RAS freefloat hadnguard.
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 6:57:08 AM EST
Tighten and untighten a few times. It should be able to move over then.
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:07:23 AM EST
really ? seems very difficult because very far still... but will try. Thx !
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:10:06 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/17/2009 7:11:39 AM EST by Frens]
+1
also dont forget to put anti-seize molybdenum grease on the threads.


ETA: voglio vedere le foto del tuo nuovo giocattolo!
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:14:29 AM EST
here it is.. (but from that picture i got a Comp M2 aimpoint and changed the RAS with a FF RAS..)

Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:18:04 AM EST


awsome!
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:19:43 AM EST
Originally Posted By Frens:


awsome!


Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:42:21 AM EST
Originally Posted By Shung:
here it is.. (but from that picture i got a Comp M2 aimpoint and changed the RAS with a FF RAS..)

http://i84.servimg.com/u/f84/11/94/71/06/mk18ct10.jpg


That is some kind of sweet right there!
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:43:59 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/17/2009 8:00:35 AM EST by Shung]
thx a lot guys, but this is not a thread about my Mk18 ..

please, if you have any other tip for a "in between" situation with barrel nut, please let me know ;)
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:49:20 AM EST
do you have a torque wrench?

here is how I did mine:
put grease on threads;
Torque & loosen barrel nut three times:
set torque wrench to minimum value (30 ft/lbs) and torque barrel nut;
If barrel nut slot does not line up set torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs and torque until slot lines up or max torque value is reached.

Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:50:53 AM EST
The range is 30 to 80 ft-lbs––––––-meaning you don't have to be at 80––-if it lines up within that range––-go with that.
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 7:59:14 AM EST
I only have the wrench.. I can't really mesure the torque.. I will have to guess... I am really affraid I cannot reach the next hole, but I will try.. maybe with your technique (tighten, untighten many times) it will work !

thx guys !
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 8:02:18 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/17/2009 11:53:05 AM EST by FIGJAM]
It won't seem like much force with a 24" (60cm) breaker bar attached to your barrel wrench (my method of choice). The process is quite simple. Torque to 30-35 ftlbs. loosen (repeat three times), then advance to the next channel if necessary. Think of the thousands upon thousands of rifles that have been assembled this way. Your's is no different.
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 8:05:44 AM EST
I understand.. I was onlly worried about breaking something.. that is why, until now, I didnt made the wrench longer to apply a little more force..
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 8:44:15 AM EST
I had the same problem when building my wife's pistol upper, but I tightened and loosened a few times like everyone has said and I eventually got it to line up. It was a tight biotch.
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 11:01:40 AM EST
It was a tight biotch.


i'm affraid I understand, and it doesnt sound english ;)
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 11:03:52 AM EST
Originally Posted By Shung:
It was a tight biotch.


i'm affraid I understand, and it doesnt sound english ;)


tight bitch
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 11:30:11 AM EST
Basically the torque range allows enough rotation of the nut so that if its just a tick too far, you can safely go to the next notch without hurting anything.

The tighten/untighten thing works well too.

You WONT break anything assuming you have the upper in a good block and the proper wrench for the job.

Either way, there isnt much you can do! Almost have to go for it.
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 12:08:25 PM EST
Did it !

thx guys !!! it's VERY tight now, and I hope I don't have to remove it anytime soon ;) I put a lot of moby grease so I hope it would help whenever I'd decide to remove it..

For my fronstight pins (not taper pins unfortunately) that were getting loose after 6 or 7 in and outs (I had to do this to tune my gasport correctly) , I placed a fine steel filament (from a steel brush) to make them very tight.. Now, even the frontsight is rock solid.

it should do. Will shoot tomorrow and tell you how it went !

btw, I understood the biotch, but it sounded a lot like the russian word "biatch" .. anyway, same meaning .. I guess this is universal language :p
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 12:12:48 PM EST
Originally Posted By Shung:


For my fronstight pins (not taper pins unfortunately) that were getting loose after 6 or 7 in and outs (I had to do this to tune my gasport correctly) , I placed a fine steel filament (from a steel brush) to make them very tight.. Now, even the frontsight is rock solid.

it


get a taper reamer, hit the holes and add taper pins, do it right. that filiment will fall out
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 12:35:13 PM EST
I eventually will...

but I dont have this tool right now...

anyway, these filaments have as much chances of getting out than me to sleep with Charlize theron..

i whish you are right, of course..
Link Posted: 9/17/2009 12:37:09 PM EST
Originally Posted By DevL:
Tighten and untighten a few times. It should be able to move over then.


Link Posted: 9/17/2009 1:32:53 PM EST
Brownells makes a lapping tool that should help if the nut is too tight.


http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20220/Product/AR_15_M16_UPPER_RECEIVER_LAPPING_TOOL


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