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Posted: 11/16/2008 6:56:50 AM EST
Im sure this has been asked before but couldnt find alot of info on it.

Which Bake on finishes? which spray on finishes have you used? what do you like?

like.... gunkote, brownells, etc....

Also, when using these finishes, are you using them INSDIE the lower and upper as well? or only the outside?

thanks
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 7:12:17 AM EST
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 7:33:52 AM EST
KG GunKote and Sandstrom 9A,  A.K.A. " Solid Film Lubricant"   20+ years with both and no regrets so far.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 7:34:18 AM EST
I have used norrels and cerakote.both work good cerakote is thicker.

I only have older pics from when they were first done.
but I have always done inside the receivers,it wears away at the BCG rail contact point.
cerakote held up best so far, both have chipped but it took a lot more to chip the cerakote.

if you are gonna paint, use a GUN coating.do it right the first time.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 7:34:51 AM EST
Handsdown, GUNKOTE. For steel, parkerized and GUNKOTE.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 7:45:03 AM EST
Quoted:
Handsdown, GUNKOTE. For steel, parkerized and GUNKOTE.



Yep, works great over well worn tenifer too.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 7:48:14 AM EST
I am a big fan of Norell's Moly Resin.  Not as many colors as some of the others, but I have always gotten great results by following the directions.


Moly Resin Overview
Moly Resin™ is a product trademark of John Norrell Inc. These finishes are specifically formulated from a phenolic resin base and molybdenum disulfide (a superior lubricant) with an exclusive blend of additives only available through Norrell Manufacturing. Our additives create a phenolic coating that is hard,durable, and extremely chemical and heat resistant.Our special low temperature catalyst will cause the Resin to harden and bond to the surface to form a barrier to acids, oils, paint removers, powder solvents, bore cleaners and other strong industrial solvents. The low curing temperature prevents possible heat damage to parts during the curing process. We select our phenolic base stocks from hundreds offered by Dow Corning and 3M. The combination of the most suitable base stock, our additives, and molybdenum creates a truly unique coating that represents state-of-the-art technology. No other thermally cured firearm finish available on the market today has the same characteristics and properties that Moly Resin™ offers the professional gunsmith or home hobbyist. Moly Resin™ is a coating developed for ordnance usage on equipment and weapons, providing excellent corrosion protection, abrasion resistance and lubricity to meet automatic weapon dry firing requirements after 60 days seawater immersion. Available ready to apply. No thinning or dilution is needed.

Moly Resin™ will adhere to all metals including the following: aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, sandblasted and glass beaded metal, cast iron and aluminum, titanium, copper, silver solder, blued or parkerized finish, anodized, nickel and chrome plate, and many plastics, etc. Note: nickel and chrome plated surfaces should be abrasive blasted to allow the best adhesion of the Resin. For all metals, best overall results are achieved on freshly sandblasted surfaces. Moly Resin™ is available in the following twelve standard colors but other colors may be special ordered.

A note about the difference between a typical paint and coatings like Moly Resin. A typical paint is a formulation of pigments and other ingredients diluted with a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the pigments harden and that hard residue is what is referred to as paint. Unfortunately, paint is susceptable and damaged easily and removed by many, if not most chemical solvents, acids, gun cleaners, bore cleaners, etc. A coating like Moly Resin thermally cured or air cure coatings are actual a complex mix of phenolics, polymers, etc. that are highly reactive to each other but kept from reacting by a catalyst mixed into the coating formula. The catalyst is activated by heat at a certain temperature or by oxygen as in the Air Dry Moly product. Once the catalyst is activated, a chemical reaction occurs between the various chemical to form a totally new substance. The new substance formed becomes very hard and resistant to the original solvents used to dissolve the original phenolics and other base resins, etc. This is why Moly Resin is not considered to be a paint.

 
Available Colors
NEW product! AIR DRY BLACK - Designed to be used for stocks, plastics, scopes and other parts that may be damaged by curing at 300 degrees. This product replaces the need to use two part epoxy type coatings or when curing parts at 300 degrees are not acceptable. AIR DRY Black is applied the same as the other Moly Resin coatings but for a different purpose and will produce a flat, semi-gloss or glossy finish. AIR DRY Moly Resin cures and hardens in approximately 90 minutes. AIR DRY Moly Resin is designed for scopes, stocks, forearms, plastic grips, etc. It is not suitable for finishing barrels, receivers and other large metal parts. Please read the Characteristics and Benefits and Procedures and Tips sections for details of use and application.
GLOSSY BLACK - Very Glossy black that looks like an expensive black "blue-job" wet with oil.


BLACK Flat
Black in coloration with a non-reflective dull matte appearance. This a slightly darker shade compared to the above Grayish-Black Moly Resin™. Norrell Manufacturing supplies this Mil-Spec finish to the sub-contractors that manufacture US SOCOM (U.S. Special Operations Command) products for H&K and the U.S. Military such as the sound suppressor for the H&K Mark 23 SOCOM .45 Cal. pistol used by the Navy Seals and Special Forces. It is also used by a number of firearm manufacturers. Our most popular color.

BLACK Semi-Gloss
Black in coloration with a slight gloss that is similar in appearance to the H&K (Heckler & Koch) type finish. Good match to H&K, UZI, and other similar semi-gloss black guns.

GRAYISH-BLACK Flat
Dark gray-black coloration with a flat appearance. This duplicates the appearance of the early original Colt AR-15/M-16 finish. This is the same product that is purchased from us by the U.S. Military to refinish Colt M-16's.

GRAY Flat
A match to older gray military parkerizing including some very early Colt and Armalite M-16 rifles.

LIGHT GRAY Flat
A lighter gray with no black tones.

GREEN Flat (Olive Drab)
Olive (flat) drab green that is a match to U.S. Military OD green.

GREENISH-GRAY Flat
This is a darker version of basic U.S. Military O.D. Green.

TAN Flat, BROWN Flat, and OFF-WHITE Flat
Basic Camo colors (Tan is new U.S. Military mid-east desert tan 30118 color fed standard 595B. Also known as "Dark Earth.")

STAINLESS STEEL
The appearance of glass beaded stainless steel when applied over any type of metal. A pleasantly surprising match to real stainless. Used primarily to color match small parts such as scope rings, bases, and other parts, etc. when they are not available in stainless; however, other uses include pistol frames with colored slides to create popular two tone handguns.

CLEAR COAT
Moly Resin phenolic resin with no coloration pigments or additives for lubrication. Can be applied over a cured colored Moly Resin coating or to bare metal.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 7:54:04 AM EST
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 10:33:49 AM EST
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 1:10:51 PM EST
So far I prefer the Norrell's for color match and it's easy to use. I have used the Brownell's bake-on which is a good color match, although it stinks up the house during baking. No stink with the Norrell's during baking.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 1:37:38 PM EST
Quoted:
Quoted:
Sandstrom 9A, A.K.A. " Solid Film Lubricant" 20+ years with both and no regrets so far.
Receiver extension re-finished with mil-spec SFL.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/BufferRetainerPin2Sm.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v489/Metroliner/DryLube3.jpg


But is that mil. spec. carpet on the stock??
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 1:49:20 PM EST
I have tried Gunkote but didn't like the flat black.  It was too shiny and looked like cheap-ass spraypaint.  

Stripped it of and refinished with Norrell's Moly Resin.  This stuff really goes on nicely and bake cures to a nice flat finish that really looks like anodizing.  It is a very hard finish that adheres well to beadblasted aluminum and seems to resist most common solvents.

Here's a carbine I built on an 80% lower finished with the stuff.

Link Posted: 11/16/2008 1:52:13 PM EST
Another fan of Moly Resin here.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 2:03:54 PM EST
I used Brownells Gun Kote for several 1911's and it is great.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 2:15:24 PM EST
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 2:28:12 PM EST
It's Norrell's Moly Resin for me!







Link Posted: 11/16/2008 3:14:49 PM EST



AKARS,
Do you bead blast where you have the bare aluminum or just prep it with sandpaper to roughen it up ?  I didn't have access to a bead blaster and just sanded it with sandpaper. It went on just fine, yet I'm not sure how it will hold up during rough use.
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 5:27:34 PM EST
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 5:31:05 PM EST
Link Posted: 11/16/2008 5:44:22 PM EST
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