Im looking for some DIY trigger job info for a AR...
I saw info years ago for a 1911, and have to say I did a fine job!
If I cant find any I will do it the same way, but I would rather read it again for a AR, before I go at it.
Thanks again!

i think there is a sticky in this forum at the top somewhere.

good info in this post:

Here

Just keep in mind that the standard triggers are only surface hardened, and if you're doing much more than polishing, you'll be into the softer metal and it will wear much quicker.



Someone around here coined the term "500rd trigger job" to describe some over-zealous material removal...

Buy a Timney. Stay away from Bill

Thats the plan 100%, but its also at the end of the plan and Im going to wanna shoot it before then.

As for getting into the soft metal... no worries, I deal with hardened materials all day, and Im sure its hardened deep enough for what I wanna to do. If not, I guess its back to the above plan
when I picked up the RRA,  LPK, I didnt go with the two stage, being that saved me $100 I would use to get what I want for a trigger, but the mil-spec triugger setup in the lpk feels like....YUK... no its worst than that...

Thanks everyone!

ipschoser1 posted something almost 5 yrs ago (archived) about his 4lb trigger.

The pics are no longer there and Punani took down his pdf, but if you IM him and ask , maybe he still has the info on a laptop or hard drive.

Looks like he took std. components and made a "budget" JP, w/o the quick reset or lighter than 4lbs or so.

Good DIY tutorial here, more discussion of the homegrown trigger job here

This is, almost, the same thing ipschoser1 did in his tutorial back in the Spring, 2006.  Good to see that it has not gone "away".

What was your experience with Bill? I have a trigger there right now.

There have been a couple reports on here where he got carried away on material removal and got through the surface hardening.





That means the trigger will feel great for all of a couple hundred rounds then it can get dangerous.





Could have something to do with variances in hardening specs between LPK manufacturers, but it has been an issue for some...





 

I am no expert but couldn't you just fire harden the metal again.  I am just guessing I don't really know, seems like people do it on AK receivers all the time.

Link

The famous Bill destroyed two out of two trigger sets for me.  They were not safe to use and unrepairable.  Avoid with a passion.  The hammers and triggers were wrecked, welded, and would not reset if half pulled.  The bent up springs were useless.  He possibly does not understand how an AR trigger SAFELY works or does not think it matters.  Or why the ANGLES of the two surfaces cannot be changed.

Do It Yourself:

1)  Polish hammer and trigger surfaces keeping the flats perfectly flat on 600-800-1000 grit paper backed up with a flat stone or piece of steel.

1a)  The word is polish.  All you are trying to do is get the ridges and valleys smoothed out from OEM milling.  The surface goes from rough flat metal looking to polished shinny is a few seconds.  QUIT right then.  Match the angles and surfaces 100%.  Do the minimum and quit once it goes smooth and shinny.  The hammer will cock slightly more as the trigger is pulled and that is exactly what you want.

2)  Get a Tubb 90% chrome silicone hammer spring and install it.

2a)  With the spring material and geometry of the Tubb hammer spring, hammer time, velocity match a full strength military spring.  Never ever not once have I had a failure to fire in thousands of rounds of half a dozen factory ammos and my reloads.  Brownells has the springs.

3)  Use a full strength trigger spring unbent, unscrewed with, as is, military issue.

3a)  The trigger will ALWAYS reset to full depth if half pulled.  That is number one safety design.  It will not sit on a knife edge waiting to be jarred off.

4)  The end result, if greased, is a 5#-5.5# smooth and nice trigger pull.  If you leave it oiled, 5.5#-6.0#.  AND SAFE.

I saw this a couple of years ago, don't know if it helps. good luck.
http://www.sargenthome.com/15_Minute_AR_Trigger_Job.htm

Interesting. And too bad. He used to have a really good rep. I recommended a friend send him a trigger and he botched it completely. He took too much off the sear and it now fires on release. Tried it in several different guns and it did the same thing in all of them. I felt bad so I traded him 2 new FCG's for it and tossed it in the bin.

I wasnt looking  to change a mil-spec into a 3 lbs trigger, just wanted to clean it up, and I did

Thanks everyone for there replys.

I work with steel everyday and wasnt to worried about eating away the hardness.

with 15 minutes and a fine stone, its 100% better.

NOTE
If you dont know what your doing, and dont understand steel, and working with it, dont even try, go do the dishes or mow the lawn or something.

How times change.Not too long ago folks on here jumped all over if ya said you got bad work out of Bill..
I won't go into mine again....was not great.
I would just by a RRA NM 2 stage or better and not try to grind on your own triggers.