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Posted: 12/3/2007 1:07:55 PM EDT
How many dremel discs did it take and would you do it again? New Armalite upper is in today and begs for a free float via Troy eay rail. This would require the FSB being cut....
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 1:26:51 PM EDT
I've done it 3 times, twice to my rifles and once to a friends, and I'll continue to do it as it's cheaper and doesn't require too much work (though a does take a little time.)

I took 2 or 3 discs per FSB.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 1:39:43 PM EDT

Ha! I was thinking the same thing for my Armalite upper, with a full length DPMS freefloat.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 2:00:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/3/2007 2:01:13 PM EDT by glock24]
I did one a few months ago however I used a variety of tools;

1. Metal blade on a Sawzall for the sight tower - 1 minute, 34 seconds
2. Cut-off wheel on Dremel tool for bayonet lug and sling swivel. - 7 minutes, 2 seconds
3. Contour and polish entire remaining surfaces with a 60 grit disc on a 1/4" die grinder - 36 seconds flat
4. Cold blue all exposed surfaces - 2 minutes, 13 seconds
5. Spray paint with high-temp engine block paint - 1 minute, 7 seconds (less dry time)





Link Posted: 12/3/2007 2:23:41 PM EDT
I sure am glad that someone posted this b/c I am about to do this in the next couple days.

I just cant give up $40 for a low-pro gas block.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 2:46:38 PM EDT

Originally Posted By glock24:
I did one a few months ago however I used a variety of tools;

1. Metal blade on a Sawzall for the sight tower - 1 minute, 34 seconds
2. Cut-off wheel on Dremel tool for bayonet lug and sling swivel. - 7 minutes, 2 seconds
3. Contour and polish entire remaining surfaces with a 60 grit disc on a 1/4" die grinder - 36 seconds flat
4. Cold blue all exposed surfaces - 2 minutes, 13 seconds
5. Spray paint with high-temp engine block paint - 1 minute, 7 seconds (less dry time)

i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture001-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture003-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture0062.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture010.jpg

Sawzall is my tool of choice as well. God I love my sawzall!
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:02:58 PM EDT

Originally Posted By glock24:
I did one a few months ago however I used a variety of tools;

1. Metal blade on a Sawzall for the sight tower - 1 minute, 34 seconds
2. Cut-off wheel on Dremel tool for bayonet lug and sling swivel. - 7 minutes, 2 seconds
3. Contour and polish entire remaining surfaces with a 60 grit disc on a 1/4" die grinder - 36 seconds flat
4. Cold blue all exposed surfaces - 2 minutes, 13 seconds
5. Spray paint with high-temp engine block paint - 1 minute, 7 seconds (less dry time)

i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture001-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture003-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture0062.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture010.jpg




Did you do this with the FSB on the barrel?
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:08:01 PM EDT
Nice work, G24!!
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:10:28 PM EDT
Did it to my AR10, ran through about 20 disks if I remember correctly. It was a pain in the ass.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:17:19 PM EDT

Originally Posted By DON70:

Did you do this with the FSB on the barrel?


You're damn right! That's the only way to do it
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:18:36 PM EDT

Originally Posted By glock24:
I did one a few months ago however I used a variety of tools;

1. Metal blade on a Sawzall for the sight tower - 1 minute, 34 seconds
2. Cut-off wheel on Dremel tool for bayonet lug and sling swivel. - 7 minutes, 2 seconds
3. Contour and polish entire remaining surfaces with a 60 grit disc on a 1/4" die grinder - 36 seconds flat
4. Cold blue all exposed surfaces - 2 minutes, 13 seconds
5. Spray paint with high-temp engine block paint - 1 minute, 7 seconds (less dry time)

i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture001-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture003-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture0062.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture010.jpg


dude, you timed it to the second

nice job
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:20:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/3/2007 3:21:18 PM EDT by glock24]

Originally Posted By ALPHAGHOST:


dude, you timed it to the second

nice job


Well yeah . . . gunsmithing and NASCAR are my two hobbies

For those of you who haven't see it . . . there are more detailed directions here

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:25:39 PM EDT
It's pretty easy, and since the gas block will be under the rail, you don't have to get it perfect.

Since you can get a gas block for about $50, and a Dremel for $20, you'll save yourself some money and learn something new.

Did it on mine, I was very happy with it!
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:35:19 PM EDT
Here's one I did awhile back. Hacksaw, belt sander, Dremel, and reparkerized.

Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:44:50 PM EDT

Originally Posted By glock24:

Originally Posted By ALPHAGHOST:


dude, you timed it to the second

nice job


Well yeah . . . gunsmithing and NASCAR are my two hobbies

For those of you who haven't see it . . . there are more detailed directions here

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782


cool, thats slick, thx
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 3:58:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/3/2007 3:59:47 PM EDT by PhuzzyGnu]
Stupid question:

Would cutting down the FSB while on-barrel allow you to install a free-float without removing everything?

I like the Omega rail but would prefer a Larue 9 to 11-incher on my Colt 6721, and, well, I'm lazy.

-p.

Link Posted: 12/3/2007 4:00:54 PM EDT

Originally Posted By azeyecap:
Did it to my AR10, ran through about 20 disks if I remember correctly. It was a pain in the ass.


That's strange. I'm guessing you must have used those dinky little lightweight unreinforced cutoff wheels. I've cut a couple of them off with the heavy duty wheels and it was super easy and fast.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 4:06:02 PM EDT
Just a warning that if you ever want to change configurations back to a fixed FSB, its going to be difficult to install a new FSB.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 5:14:23 PM EDT

Originally Posted By PhuzzyGnu:
Stupid question:

Would cutting down the FSB while on-barrel allow you to install a free-float without removing everything?

I like the Omega rail but would prefer a Larue 9 to 11-incher on my Colt 6721, and, well, I'm lazy.

-p.



No chance, unless it is a two-piece bolt-on rail like the MI, Troy, Samson, etc. Any gas block must come off for a barrel nut replacement style like a LaRue.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 5:21:16 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 5:57:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By bigbore:
If its going under a rail, this is one of my favorites. It doesnt need to be pretty
www.adcofirearms.com/images/lowblock.jpg


lol thats exactly why I've wondered why people pay so much for the low profile gas blocks...especially when they cover it up with a rail....
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 6:01:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/3/2007 6:04:20 PM EDT by PUBBOY]
Yeah, I've shaved my....FSB?...oh, front sight base...never mind...

Nice job!

Link Posted: 12/3/2007 6:21:22 PM EDT
Yes.

Angle grinder is my friend! Not pretty but effective. You don't see it anyway.

Oh yeah, and its inexpensive.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 6:24:23 PM EDT
I have never done it. Resale on a barrel with a cut down FSB sucks and I never know how long I ma keeping parts. But that is just me.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 7:00:15 PM EDT


My handy work... only way to go is pinned for me....
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 7:14:30 PM EDT
I have done it with great results as well, although the pic above seems a little radical, mine had more material on the front. I chopped down a post ban, no bayo lug barrel to fit under rail system. Worked great and no set screw crap, pins all the way.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 7:46:34 PM EDT

Originally Posted By glock24:
I did one a few months ago however I used a variety of tools;

1. Metal blade on a Sawzall for the sight tower - 1 minute, 34 seconds
2. Cut-off wheel on Dremel tool for bayonet lug and sling swivel. - 7 minutes, 2 seconds
3. Contour and polish entire remaining surfaces with a 60 grit disc on a 1/4" die grinder - 36 seconds flat
4. Cold blue all exposed surfaces - 2 minutes, 13 seconds
5. Spray paint with high-temp engine block paint - 1 minute, 7 seconds (less dry time)

i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture001-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture003-1.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture0062.jpg
i27.photobucket.com/albums/c194/flexiblehorse12/Matt%20Woods/Picture010.jpg


The only thing about that I would change is to use wheel paint instead of engine paint. It's actually more durable in face I suspect it's the same as duracoat.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 8:01:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/3/2007 8:08:26 PM EDT by 1911Custom]

Originally Posted By comp1911:
Just a warning that if you ever want to change configurations back to a fixed FSB, its going to be difficult to install a new FSB.


Why? Push out the pins, pin in a new front sight. And you've still spent less money than buying a dedicated low-profile FSB.

As for Dremel discs, less than one. Don't buy those crappy emery wheels, get the fiberglass reinforced ones. They last for many jobs, and don't go flying across the room in shards, when you get a little off-angle.

The smaller ones in this pic are the crappy ones.



ETA:

Poor pic of my cut-down block:

Link Posted: 12/3/2007 9:24:22 PM EDT
been there done that.

Took a few of the round sanding attachments and a few discs also.

With dremel in one hand and FSB in the other to fit under a DD12.0.

I sliced the piss out of my mechanix gloves and even smelled the material on the gloves burning a couple times from the metal being so hot...

(I'm in my apt. at school so a vice wasn't an option for holding).

I've got pics around here somewhere but it looked exactly like every other pic in this thread.

Cheap and easy...and if it's the FSB that came w/ your barrel then you're really...really GTG. No worries about clamping or set pins...just put it back on and put the pins back in.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 9:33:25 PM EDT

Originally Posted By timb3:

Originally Posted By azeyecap:
Did it to my AR10, ran through about 20 disks if I remember correctly. It was a pain in the ass.


That's strange. I'm guessing you must have used those dinky little lightweight unreinforced cutoff wheels. I've cut a couple of them off with the heavy duty wheels and it was super easy and fast.



Yeah, they where pretty thin, but they where the only thing in the garage at the time, and I gambled that I could get finished without going to the hardware store for better ones.
Link Posted: 12/3/2007 9:43:05 PM EDT
I just got done using a hack saw to chop the top half and the sling attachments off of mine. I am working on the bayonet lug right now, pretty damn hard when you don't have a vise to put it in.

It's gonna be UGLY until I can get home and get my dad to help me out with his Dremel, BUT it will be funtional!!!
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 1:54:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/4/2007 1:55:36 AM EDT by glock24]

Originally Posted By 1911Custom:


Why? Push out the pins, pin in a new front sight. And you've still spent less money than buying a dedicated low-profile FSB.



Careful now . . . easier said than done. The FSB and barrel are drilled for taper pins by the factory as a combination, meaning the two taper pin hole locations are unique to that set of parts.

A replacement FSB will not align properly with an old barrel.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 3:28:05 AM EDT

Originally Posted By glock24:
Careful now . . . easier said than done. The FSB and barrel are drilled for taper pins by the factory as a combination, meaning the two taper pin hole locations are unique to that set of parts.

A replacement FSB will not align properly with an old barrel.


Thanks for the tip. I didn't know that, and expected the parts to be interchangeable.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 4:26:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/4/2007 4:33:04 AM EDT by comp1911]

Originally Posted By 1911Custom:

Originally Posted By comp1911:
Just a warning that if you ever want to change configurations back to a fixed FSB, its going to be difficult to install a new FSB.


Why? Push out the pins, pin in a new front sight. And you've still spent less money than buying a dedicated low-profile FSB.

As for Dremel discs, less than one. Don't buy those crappy emery wheels, get the fiberglass reinforced ones. They last for many jobs, and don't go flying across the room in shards, when you get a little off-angle.

The smaller ones in this pic are the crappy ones.

www.mytoolstore.com/dremel/409-426.gif

ETA:

Poor pic of my cut-down block:

www.teamcny.com/jeep/images/forum/temp/ar6.jpg


It's not quite that easy. The barrel and FSB are drilled as a unit. I'm not saying it's impossible but it not as easy as you have described. Especially with correct taper pins.

I don't have any issue with chopping an FSB, it is the strongest method by far.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 4:34:09 AM EDT

Originally Posted By 1911Custom:

Originally Posted By glock24:
Careful now . . . easier said than done. The FSB and barrel are drilled for taper pins by the factory as a combination, meaning the two taper pin hole locations are unique to that set of parts.

A replacement FSB will not align properly with an old barrel.


Thanks for the tip. I didn't know that, and expected the parts to be interchangeable.




Link Posted: 12/4/2007 5:52:30 AM EDT
If you do chop your FSB and want to replace it later, just order a clamp on from armalite.
Way better than set screws, but not as good as pins. One benifit is you can adjust the site base so that your windage is at mechanical zero.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 6:07:16 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Blacktail-8541:
If you do chop your FSB and want to replace it later, just order a clamp on from armalite.
Way better than set screws, but not as good as pins. One benifit is you can adjust the site base so that your windage is at mechanical zero.


Set screws are fine if the barrel has flats cut to accept them. They are not good with out the flats.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 6:12:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/4/2007 6:19:45 AM EDT by Roughneck-2zero]
Yep, that's what I just went through too. I shaved on down like Glock24 did. I went to put it on another barrel and the taper pins didn't line up. I drilled out the 2 smaller holes (on the left side) to match the larger ones, tapped them and used set screws with red Locktight. It's just a gas-block now anyway.
cheers, LT

BTW: If you do this. Go very slowly while tapping!! Taps this small will snap off very easily and since they're hardened steel and can't be drilled out, you might as well throw the base away (I've done it) .
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 6:56:40 AM EDT
I had to do it to a pencil barrel sight block. Simply because I had no access to a low profile block for the slim barrel.

Turned out to be a cool build though.

14.5 lightweight with Troy rifle length free float.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 7:06:27 AM EDT
Mine looks almost exactly like 1911custom's, except with the free float tube covering the cut down FSB because it was a 16" barrel.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 10:16:31 AM EDT
Comp1911


Set screws are fine if the barrel has flats cut to accept them. They are not good with out the flats.



Set screws expand and contract with heat and if the gas block takes a hard enough hit, it will move.

For a range shooter.. set screws are fine.. for a serious work gun... Pinned all the way.

Me personnely... nothing but pins......YMMV
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 10:23:18 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Harv24:
Comp1911


Set screws are fine if the barrel has flats cut to accept them. They are not good with out the flats.



Set screws expand and contract with heat and if the gas block takes a hard enough hit, it will move.

For a range shooter.. set screws are fine.. for a serious work gun... Pinned all the way.

Me personnely... nothing but pins......YMMV


I agree Harv. I would never want a set screwed FSB of any type on a serious deal rifle/carbine. I just wanted to make the point that if you do use setscrews you need the flats. It is what the Army is using on SDM/DMR barrels. www.jobrelatedstuff.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=22&t=463127
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 4:01:11 PM EDT
Oh yea.. I'm with ya on the flats.. if you run it that way...Flats for sure.
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 4:10:41 PM EDT
Cut it down and if needed just add this..................


Bushmaster Modular Accessories System (B.M.A.S.) Front Flip Sight for V Match Rifles and Carbines #YHM-9360K
A high quality front sight that clamps around the V Match milled sight base/gas block - designed to be used with any open iron rear sight. This patent pending Front Flip Sight is machined from aircraft aluminum with an anodized finish, installs with an Allen wrench, locks up or down with a push button and is elevation adjustable. A standard front sight post is included, and the base is drilled and tapped for our B.M.A.S. Sling Swivel Stud (see YHM-9364 below).
Link Posted: 12/4/2007 7:23:57 PM EDT
How about a pimped cut-down? I nickel plated this one to match the polished SS barrel.

Link Posted: 12/4/2007 8:25:28 PM EDT
So then how do you remove the front handguard cap without removing the barrel?
Link Posted: 12/5/2007 3:44:27 AM EDT

Originally Posted By JeremyinTX:
So then how do you remove the front handguard cap without removing the barrel?
What front handgaurd cap? These are free-float tubes.

In fact, mine is a one-piece tube. You have to remove the FSB to remove the tube. If you remove the tube, you have removed the barrel.
Link Posted: 12/5/2007 5:16:55 PM EDT
From what I understand this is an easy fix used by some people who want an extended free float rail over their gas block.

Such as the troy or midwest free float rails rails which only require you to cut the delta ring. If you have a shaved gas block you could then use the extended version of those rails. Useful on barrels with fixed flash suppressors.

I know you wouldn't use the front handguard cap, but how would you get it off without removing the barrel.

In Russ4777's post on the first page it still shows his attached. Is this part removeable by cutting?
Link Posted: 12/5/2007 5:30:17 PM EDT
Jeremy, yes, to remove that cap, just Dremel a like, and pull it off.
I don't think I'm understanding what you'd want to do, though. You mention wanting to remove the cap without removing the barrel.

I don't see why you'd be cutting down the FSB, without wanting to remove the barrel. If you're going to a free float tube, you'll be wanting to remove the barrel nut, which means you'll have the barrel off.
Link Posted: 12/5/2007 6:59:44 PM EDT

Originally Posted By 1911Custom:
Jeremy, yes, to remove that cap, just Dremel a like, and pull it off.
I don't think I'm understanding what you'd want to do, though. You mention wanting to remove the cap without removing the barrel.

I don't see why you'd be cutting down the FSB, without wanting to remove the barrel. If you're going to a free float tube, you'll be wanting to remove the barrel nut, which means you'll have the barrel off.


Second part is incorrect. You can file down the FSB, remove the cap and put a Troy rail over the stock bbl nut after removing the delta ring via Dremel.
Link Posted: 12/5/2007 7:05:55 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Russ4777:
Here's one I did awhile back. Hacksaw, belt sander, Dremel, and reparkerized.

www.hunt101.com/data/500/9237Rt_gas_block_Large_.jpg


Best I've seen so far, love it. It's very clean and looks purpose built.
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