Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
Posted: 10/30/2009 4:21:25 AM EST
I've got a Troy MRF 9" rail I wish was 7". Seems like I could just cut it down to 7".

If anyone has done this I'd be interested in what tool/method works best.

Thanks.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 4:35:15 AM EST
Never cut a rail, but I have cut some large aluminum angle( like angle iron) as well as 1/4"thick brass on a table saw using a carbide blade. You can get a very clean, square cut this way. I would just rig a means of clamping the rail to a wooden jig to hold it secure so you could make the cut. You might have to turn it and make two passes, depending on size of blade vs size of rail, so it would be good to be able to index it precisely when turning. The cut will be very smooth and shiney with some machining/saw marks due to blade runout( I used a rather precison Forrest blade on a Delta Unisaw tablesaw and still got marks). You could then sand the cut end with some w/d silicon carbide paper to get a dull surface to better help finishing to existing matt finish.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 8:11:10 AM EST
Roger that. Table saw with miter gauge, or a miter/chop saw. It is worth throwing a square on it and getting it true first. Sandpaper the raw cut edge to roughen to prep for refinishing. Place the sandpaper on a flat surface and run the tube face across it. Or use a sanding block.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 4:37:36 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/30/2009 4:38:13 PM EST by MrM4]
I used a chopsaw and then put it in my 4 jaw on the lathe and trued it up.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 4:47:11 PM EST
sell the 9 and buy a 7.
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 5:01:26 PM EST
I'd think that a bandsaw would work best. Keep in mind that you'll be exposing the raw aluminum underneath the hard anodize of the rail though...
Link Posted: 10/30/2009 10:32:50 PM EST

Originally Posted By wendell:
sell the 9 and buy a 7.

+1
Link Posted: 10/31/2009 8:18:38 AM EST
More rail the better
Link Posted: 10/31/2009 2:20:12 PM EST
Originally Posted By coltbarnett:
More rail the better


More rail than you NEED for the accessories you NEED is a waste, and kills the weight (and usually balance) of the rifle. More rail="tacticool". Does not usually="tacticAl".

A lot of guys who put large rails on their rifles tend to rethink them pretty quick, if the thing is coming out of the safe for more than bench-rest shooting.

Front heavy, or just plain heavy, rifles tend to get real old, real quick, if you spend a whole day or more on the range (or real world) running around and trying to actually maneuver the rifle, while maintaining any semblance of effective fire/accuracy.

Lots of guys start pulling off lasers, flashlights, bipods, foregrips, battery packs, etc. when they realize that having all that junk on their rifles ain't always as "tactical" as it looks.

Seen lotsa guys go back to good old fashioned plastic handguards, once the novelty wears off that super sweet looking 39" rail with a can-opener.
Link Posted: 10/31/2009 6:46:46 PM EST
I guarantee that if you put it up for trade (9" for 7"), you'll get a bite within a couple days.

He probably needs a 7" to go on a standard carbine.

I'm a fan of more rail. I tend to have my support hand way the hell out there, no VFG. I have a 12" rail on a 16" gun and I couldn't be happier. I grew up on a 20" M16A2 so I'm used to a "heavy" rifle.

Link Posted: 10/31/2009 8:46:37 PM EST
Originally Posted By wrenchmonkey:
I'd think that a bandsaw would work best. Keep in mind that you'll be exposing the raw aluminum underneath the hard anodize of the rail though...


You would impress the crap out of me if you could band saw a cut thru aluminum that would be cleaner than a miter saw. Not that sanding wouldn't clean it up...
Link Posted: 10/31/2009 8:53:45 PM EST
Originally Posted By Bretshooter:
Originally Posted By wrenchmonkey:
I'd think that a bandsaw would work best. Keep in mind that you'll be exposing the raw aluminum underneath the hard anodize of the rail though...


You would impress the crap out of me if you could band saw a cut thru aluminum that would be cleaner than a miter saw. Not that sanding wouldn't clean it up...


this.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 7:49:43 AM EST
band saw. i vote band saw and pie. like this guy did.

Link Posted: 11/1/2009 8:55:04 AM EST
Thanks for all of the replies.

This is for a 9mm SBR build that will wear a 5" 3-lug barrel and a can most of the time. So the 9" is just too long for it.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 2:19:27 PM EST
Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
band saw. i vote band saw and pie. like this guy did.

http://i39.tinypic.com/1t3g28.jpg


I was looking for an auto sear hole that some genius mistakingly drilled, but there's not one. When, then, would you do that to a perfectly good lower?
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 3:00:29 PM EST
the last cut will through the hole will make it fun to reweld
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 3:12:35 PM EST
Originally Posted By MagazineFed:
Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
band saw. i vote band saw and pie. like this guy did.

http://i39.tinypic.com/1t3g28.jpg


I was looking for an auto sear hole that some genius mistakingly drilled, but there's not one. When, then, would you do that to a perfectly good lower?


A machinist went apeshit when the Spike's lower wasn't held to thousandths of an inch perfection. When Spike's asked him to return it he cut it with a band saw.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 3:36:25 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/1/2009 3:36:44 PM EST by MagazineFed]
Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
Originally Posted By MagazineFed:
Originally Posted By CLICKBANGBANG:
band saw. i vote band saw and pie. like this guy did.

http://i39.tinypic.com/1t3g28.jpg


I was looking for an auto sear hole that some genius mistakingly drilled, but there's not one. When, then, would you do that to a perfectly good lower?


A machinist went apeshit when the Spike's lower wasn't held to thousandths of an inch perfection. When Spike's asked him to return it he cut it with a band saw.




Should have went with Vulcan.......
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 3:45:12 PM EST
while you guys are talking about this.... has anyone ever cut, or sanded off the rails on a rail forearm?

On my YHM lightweight forearm, I just need the forearm and light weight... I was thinking there might be a way to beltsand or grind the raised rails down to flat... so I'd retain the rigidity, but loose the knobbies. (I might leave like 2" of rail at the front).
Obviously this is Wile E. Coyote school of gunsmithing stuff, and if I wanted pretty, I'd go buy a different forearm... but just asking.
Link Posted: 11/1/2009 6:14:39 PM EST
Originally Posted By Carphunter:
while you guys are talking about this.... has anyone ever cut, or sanded off the rails on a rail forearm?

On my YHM lightweight forearm, I just need the forearm and light weight... I was thinking there might be a way to beltsand or grind the raised rails down to flat... so I'd retain the rigidity, but loose the knobbies. (I might leave like 2" of rail at the front).
Obviously this is Wile E. Coyote school of gunsmithing stuff, and if I wanted pretty, I'd go buy a different forearm... but just asking.


I think that for the time and effort that it would take to do this I would just buy a YHM freefloat tube for cheap and just mount some of their short rails where ever you wanted them. just me

As for the original question:
I think that Ebay and the forum's EE are your best friends...
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 4:42:36 AM EST
I just completed a build. a 16" with White Oak barrel, not the lightest going, DD Lite 9" rail , and Magpul CTR stock. Final weight came in much more than I expected, 8 lps empty. I would have liked about 6 1/2 as I built it for my wife, but that's where were we are. I do not think plastic grips would have made much difference. I also have a 16" barrel ordered to build one in same size and otherwise identical, in 6.5 Grendel. Slightly larger bore will probably reduce weight a few ounces but I am not counting on much.

I did not want a super long rail, no need, and did not want excess weight. I did want free floated barrel as I like the extra potential for improved accuracy.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 8:27:31 AM EST
Originally Posted By Carphunter:
while you guys are talking about this.... has anyone ever cut, or sanded off the rails on a rail forearm?

On my YHM lightweight forearm, I just need the forearm and light weight... I was thinking there might be a way to beltsand or grind the raised rails down to flat... so I'd retain the rigidity, but loose the knobbies. (I might leave like 2" of rail at the front).
Obviously this is Wile E. Coyote school of gunsmithing stuff, and if I wanted pretty, I'd go buy a different forearm... but just asking.


I'll buy you a FF smooth tube, and trade it for your rail tube.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 11:10:05 AM EST
Originally Posted By Carphunter:
while you guys are talking about this.... has anyone ever cut, or sanded off the rails on a rail forearm?

On my YHM lightweight forearm, I just need the forearm and light weight... I was thinking there might be a way to beltsand or grind the raised rails down to flat... so I'd retain the rigidity, but loose the knobbies. (I might leave like 2" of rail at the front).
Obviously this is Wile E. Coyote school of gunsmithing stuff, and if I wanted pretty, I'd go buy a different forearm... but just asking.


I've got a rifle length YHM customizable free float tube I want to take off my 6.8. It's only been on the upper since mid-summer, and the upper has been taken out and shot once. I'd be more than willing to sell it. I bought it new in May or June, can't remember which.

There's nothing wrong with it, and it is truly lightweight. I'm just not satisfied with the looks. I know, looks mean nothing as long as it works. The upper does work, and it's very accurate.
Link Posted: 11/2/2009 11:49:35 AM EST
Trying to muscle in on my action here?

just kidding.

But seriously, back off.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 7:35:02 AM EST
Originally Posted By wrenchmonkey:
Trying to muscle in on my action here?

just kidding.

But seriously, back off.


Uh, is this your EE ad? No.
Link Posted: 11/3/2009 7:36:17 AM EST
Nah, but I got here first.
Top Top