I'd like to get rid of the sight tower but leave the gas tube portion per the Bushmaster V-Match.  I really can't see that it would be difficult but I thought I'd ask.

Also, if I mill the front sight down will I be able to install a free float system without having to remove the rest of the gas block?

As far as reducing the front sight tower, you can just mill or grind it down, no problem. I think the fastest way would be to just lop off the top part with a cutting wheel (either on a dremel or a tabletop model) or a bandsaw, then grind or mill the stubs smooth.

I do not think you are going to be able to fit a floating handguard over the chopped gas block because of the diameter of the barrel nut, but I could be mistaken; I've never dealt with FFs. I doubt it though.

Removing the gas block is not a problem, however. It uses tapered pins. Just place the block on a sturdy anvil or vise with an opening underneath the pins, and hit them with a sturdy flat punch and a deadblow hammer; alternatively you can use a vise to simply press the pins out. Remember to hit/press on the small side of the pins to remove; hit/press on the large side to install. Installation is in reverse.

Preban or neutered?  

I might trade you a post ban for yours if it has the bayo lug.

No big deal to taking off the top portion of the front sight base just above the gas tube housing. A band saw and a mill would be ideal if you wanta take the time to set it up, but a hacksaw and a couple of files would work equally as well.

bOne's correct about having to remove the FSB in order to install a free-float handguard. They all use their own individual barrel nut replacement system and you have to remove the FSB in order to remove the original barrel nut and to then install the new nut to accept the FF hand guard tube.

Once you have the new FFHG barrel nut installed, the FFHG tube itself (at least on all of them that I have ever seen) will slide on (and off) over the cut-down FSB. This allows you to remove the FFHG tube periodicaly in order to clean the barrel underneath it.

HTH . . . . . Doug

OK, thanks guys.  I didn't think the tower removal should be hard but hoped someone could help me "cheat" and not have to remove the whole gas block.  Of course, since the sight is already squared on the barrel I'm sure I could get it back on in the same spot so removal and reinstallation won't cause any problems.

Thanks again.

I'm about to do the same unless somebody can tell me how to get one of the ones Bushmaster already hacksawed! (Vmatch gas block. Anyone?)

I'll be using a hacksaw, file, sandpaper and a vise.

I'll be using a cold blue by Birchwood Casey, then I think I'll hit the whole thing with a light coat to Rustoleum Black spray paint for charcoal grills (1500 degree rating!) that I saw at Home Depot for $3.99

I'm pooped from filing!

NOTICE! Scott Medesha's free float tube is NOT compatible with the DPMS extended high top upper! Well, it is now, thanks to my trusty file and 8 pleasant hours of rubbing on it!

The Medesha forend will for sure go on and off once I cut down the tower. It's a thing of beauty. It uses the stock nut to mount: The nut is removed. A special big bushing is put on, the nut is installed. The bushing screws to the nut, the forend screws to the bushing.

It depends on a good fit to your nut. I will shim a tiny bit with foil.

Pete