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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 12/24/2002 3:05:13 AM EST
Is there a big difference between Aluma-Hyde and Aluma-Hyde II?

Also, where can I get it other than Brownell's? At $9 a can, $7.25 shipping is offensive!
Link Posted: 12/24/2002 3:41:28 AM EST
Yes there is a big difference. I had a lower someone painted with the first and the finish came off easily. I have painted two uppers and a lower with the II and it has held up well on all of them. The biggest problem is the thickness of the coating. One upper I painted I let a small amount of spray into the sight detent hole and the ball bearing got stuck when I put it in the hole. It was a pain to get out.
Link Posted: 12/24/2002 3:49:28 AM EST
Thanks,j3 for your experience. I'll take the thickeness problem to be a good thing for the finish and just make sure I seal up any holes I don't want to paint. I'm still mad that the shipping is going to be about as much as the can.
Link Posted: 12/24/2002 7:25:33 AM EST
It takes a long time to dry but sprays out and levels off pretty well. I got some on my hand and wiped it off on a towel. The towel has been through the wash 40 or 50 times and the paint is still on it.
Link Posted: 12/24/2002 9:00:25 AM EST
Originally Posted By royce: I'm still mad that the shipping is going to be about as much as the can.
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You have a lot more restraint than I do if you can order from Brownell's and get a total less than $100! Too many goodies to resist...
Link Posted: 12/24/2002 10:06:28 AM EST
Is this a good paint to use as touch up on my AR15? Is there a way I can match the original color of my rifle?
Link Posted: 12/24/2002 6:34:07 PM EST
A question or two for those that have used the Aluma Hyde (I or II): How tough is this stuff when it comes to resisting bore cleaners, CLP, etc, and just plain old wear and tear? Are the high temp. paints (such as BBQ grill paint) that I occasionally see mentioned even worthy of consideration as a upper/lower finish ? Thanks
Link Posted: 12/25/2002 3:08:36 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/25/2002 3:14:12 AM EST by Gecko]
If applied properly (clean, warmed parts) and cured properly (baked at proper temp or let air dry in warm room for 10 days or more) I have found it to be highly resistant to anything I use to clean with, eg solvents, brake/carb cleaner etc. Since it comes in spray cans it would be difficult to use to touch up. BTW: WHEN ORDERING ORDER EXTRA SPRAY NOZZELS AS THEY PLUG UP EASILY AND CANNOT BE REUSED EFFECTIVELY
Link Posted: 12/25/2002 5:42:35 AM EST
I tried comparing Krylon, good quality enamel, Brownells Aluma Hyde, and Brownells Teflon Moly. The surface of 4 pieces of aluminum were painted. Hardness was tested by trying to scratch the surface with my thumbnail. Not very scientific but hey... Teflon Moly reached full hardness after the bake. Thumbnail would not smudge the surface. (A pointed piece of aluminum could make a scratch however.) Aluma Hyde required a good 2 weeks before it fully hardened but after that it was almost as resistant as Teflon Moly. Good quality enamel also required a couple of weeks to harden but I would not recommend it for firearms. Krylon... what a joke! I really liked the bake on Teflon Moly but it's expensive. It's best to use the entire can at once because the nozzles get clogged. The fact that it reaches full hardness after a short bake make it very convenient.
Link Posted: 12/26/2002 6:56:00 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/26/2002 6:56:38 AM EST by DFBonnett]
I've observed a couple of things. Sitting the spray can in a pan of hot water for a few minutes to warm up the contents makes it spray finer. Lacquer thinner cleans the tips. You can touch up to a degree by spraying a little puddle onto a piece of plastic or waxed paper and then using a toothpick or QTip. FWIW
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