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Page AR-15 » AR Discussions
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Posted: 5/3/2003 5:57:17 PM EDT
I'm almost finished......I just put the ARMS #40 on it. Now I am waiting for my single point sling mount so I can use my CQB HST.

Link Posted: 5/3/2003 6:48:20 PM EDT
All you need now is a tac light so you dont shoot your buddy who stumbles drunk into your back yard or the neighbors kid who is playing hide and seek with a water pistol at night. [;)]
Link Posted: 5/3/2003 7:03:22 PM EDT
I'm thinkin' you're right!

What are my options, if I retain the green handguards that are on it? Maybe just a light mount, nothing fancy like a RAS. I'm lacking knowledge......someone enlighten me!

What would be a good light? Again, nothing fancy, but of high quality.


Link Posted: 5/4/2003 8:05:04 AM EDT
[b] Looks great . Job well done . Nice looking weapons you have there.  Is that a Kimber I see ? [/b]
Link Posted: 5/4/2003 8:08:07 AM EDT
Thats one heck of a nice lookin weapon!
Link Posted: 5/4/2003 10:19:08 AM EDT
What kind of scope is that? How much was it?
Link Posted: 5/4/2003 10:38:09 AM EDT
Yep, it's a Kimber.

The "scope" is an Aimpoint ML 2 and it's mounted on an ARMS #22M68 mount with spacer.
About $400. Mine came from Eagle Arms. I can HIGHLY recommend Chris. Really fast delivery and great prices.

Perfect co-witnessing with the ARMS #40 BUIS.

Some guys like their ML 2's mounted farther out, over the handguard,  but I see no need.

Link Posted: 5/5/2003 11:09:35 PM EDT
Look at the Wilson Combat mount that goes on the side of the front sight tower.  You could maintain your current set up and use a M951P series light (6P type light designed for use on a rifle with integrated thumb screw mounts) with the Wilson mount and save a lot of money over a RAS with Green panels on it and a M900 Millenium Weapon light.  You would save litterally almost a pond and hundreds of dollars.  The light could be used with a pressing forward of the suport hand thumb and no wires... very clean, light and simple.  Remember to leave the light on though.  Removing it will change the POI when reattached or removed if its not on a FF railed forearm.  Id go for a P61 lamp which runs 20 min per set of 2 batteries and use it as a CQB light good for 50 yards tops.  If you want to go 50-75 yards you need a 9 Volt set up which will weigh more and if you want a 100 yard+ light you need a turbo head 9 Volt light.  I think you will be happy with the smaller, lighter mount/light.

Edited to add:

Your rifle is sweet.  A truly well thought out and functional piece.  Nice choice in side arm too.
Link Posted: 5/5/2003 11:29:31 PM EDT
An carbine and a good .45

You got all you need to get through life [:D]
Link Posted: 5/6/2003 7:39:39 AM EDT

Sounds like a good plan. I'll look into it.

Who has the mount and the light?

Link Posted: 5/6/2003 9:42:36 AM EDT

M951P MU System, 6 Volt, Momentary-On, Thumb Screw Mount $202


There is also a version of this light with ARMS throw lever instead of thumb screws for a bit more money ($45 more).

P61 Lamp is 120 Lumen instead of the P60 that comes with the unit which is 65 lumen.  P60 runs 60 min vs P61 which runs 20 min.  The thing you will notice most is the larger central spot of light and it reaches out about 10m further.  Its not especially brighter indoors though.  P61 cost from Sableco is $19


The only way to get the Wilson light mount is through Wilson or one of its dealers who still charge the same as Wilson, but its a nice mount and similar mounts are equivalent in price.  It comes with its own mounting ring which you may or may not use.

If you wanted to go less expensive you could go with a 6P $62 which is aluminum but not anodized, shock isolated nor seperates the batteries from the lamp. Then buy a Z32 shock isolated light bezel $16.  You would use the ring mount that comes with the Wilson mount on this set up.

Or you could go with a G2 Nitrolon polymer light which would be the least expensive and lightest way to go, $30 with no shock isolated bezel available.

Also consider training with regular Surefire batteries but using a 6V battery stick to keep in your light for "serious use" to keep the batteries from destroying each other over time.

I would go with the Millenium light for the extra money though as the batteries of the 6P and G2 can crash into the lamp assembly and destroy it which cannot happen with the M951P as it isolates the lamp from the bulbs.  You have spent a lot of money getting all the best stuff for your rifle, dont go cheap now. [:)]
Link Posted: 5/6/2003 7:21:48 PM EDT
Thanks for all the info!!!

But...let me play a little "DevL's Advocate". :)

How come so much for a "flashlight"?

Couldn't I just use any small flashlight and some rubber strap?


Link Posted: 5/6/2003 9:14:10 PM EDT
The same reason you dont have a BSA dot sight and plastic non spring loaded BUIS.  Also the same reason you use USGI mags and not USA brand mags.  

A poor mount will not reliably hold the flash light.  I do think the Wilson mount is a bit over priced but there is nothing on the market that mounts the light the same way so you are kind of stuck with it if you want to keep your light in that spot and use the support hand thumb to activate the light.  A poor flashlight will self destruct under the rigors of recoil at the worst possible moment.  If its worth doing its worth doing right.  You have not compromised on your rifle in any way as of yet so why start? The Surefire lights have a lifetime warranty, other manufacturers do not and you WILL end up breaking your flashlight if its not a Surefire and you use it on a rifle.  

The setup I just reccomended is $282 and that is $420 less expensive than the Knights FF RAS and Surefire M900 I have on my rifle.  In the larger picture the set up I showed you is cheap.  You have some of the best and most expensive optics and mounts on your rifle.  I suspect you did it right for a reason.  Dont stop now.

The Surefire Millenuium light has all alluminum construction with milspec hard anodizing just like the recievers of your rifle.  It has a shock isolated bezel and was designed to physically seperate the batteries from the bulb.  It has an integrated mount to reduce weight and bulk.  Most other manufacturers of less expensive lights dont have ANY of these features much less all of them.  Once you hold one of these lights in your hands you will understand why they cost so much.  The precision, construction and attention to detail is nothing short of amazing.

The Millenium weapon lights use pyrex instead of lexan which is more heat resistant and drives up cost.  Aluminum is more than polymer.  Hard anodization costs more than painting.  Shock isolated bezels are more complex and expensive.  The integrated mount is an added cost.  By seperating the batteries from the lamp more time and engineering is needed.  These things all cost money.  Reasons like these are also why an AR costs more than twice what an AK costs.  But the AR is better than the AK right?  It is if you can afford the AR.  The reason I gave you other alternatives was to show you the featuers you lost as the price went down.  Your cheapest flashlight option is $30.  Thats hardly expensive but you lack the robust aluminum construction, pyrex lens, shock isolated bezel, seperated battery compartment and integrated mount.
Link Posted: 5/6/2003 10:45:59 PM EDT

Thanks a lot.

That will be my next "step".

Link Posted: 5/10/2003 4:06:47 PM EDT
Now it has a Knights single point sling mount:


Link Posted: 5/10/2003 4:18:55 PM EDT
Cool Roger, glad that sling mount worked out for you.

Sweet gun.
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 5:41:35 PM EDT
Very Sweet Piece !!!!
What kind of Sling is that?
Nice !!
Thanks.. [:)]
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 5:46:27 PM EDT
The sling is a CQB HST.

The mount is real quality. It's from Knights but I don't know what model it is. I got this one from Chris at EagleArms.

It is a quick disconnect and can be used on either side by just unplugging it and switching sides.

I like....
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 5:54:30 PM EDT
Nice !!
Can you give me link as to where I can Purchase the Sling and mount?
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 5:55:56 PM EDT
Next Id spin the Aimpoint caps so they open down and they are out of your field of view.
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 6:06:02 PM EDT
Here is the info on the sling:


Link Posted: 5/10/2003 6:08:37 PM EDT
Is that mount hard to install ?
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 6:11:28 PM EDT
How would I rotate the caps?

They seem securely attached.

Link Posted: 5/10/2003 6:13:45 PM EDT
Please let me know where I can get that mount?
Also which sling did you order, The Universal one or the regular one?
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 6:35:37 PM EDT
I bought the universal HST.

I got the Knights mount from Chris ar EagleFirearms

Chris has great prices and is very helpful, and fast!

It was easy to install...ONCE I figured out that the receiver needed to be screwed in farther, so the little plunger that holds the recoil spring is captured.

Other than that new guy glitch, it was a breeze.

Link Posted: 5/10/2003 6:56:31 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 7:26:48 PM EDT
How would I rotate the caps?

They seem securely attached.

View Quote

They are tight, but thumb pressure at the hinge will move them.
Link Posted: 5/10/2003 7:37:03 PM EDT
What manufacture of rifle is that BTW?  ANy other mods we can't see?  What is the barrel length, is it chrome lined, twist rate etc and what ammo are you using?
Link Posted: 5/11/2003 12:48:17 AM EDT
Hey Roger:
Did you buy that pistol from a guy in Florida?  Are you former Coast Guard?
Link Posted: 5/11/2003 3:40:42 AM EDT
I bought the Kimber locally, here in WA. No CG.

The RRA full 16 inch barrel is chrome lined, one in 9 twist. The faux flash hider slides over the barrel like a sleeve. Purely for looks, it has no holes in the sides.

After I get a light on it, it will be "done".

My close quarters SHTF rifle.

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