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Posted: 8/3/2005 7:22:10 AM EDT
Hi All, well I'll just get right honest about it and admit that I never really zeroed in either of my Ar's. I shoot 200 yards most of the time and have my rifles working pretty good for that range. ANyway I want to shoot a service rifle match and I took a target and set out 100 yards, and I was surprised to find that much difference in where my rounds were hitting as compared to 200.
So, do you guys use 25 yards or 50M improved zero? I want the least variance along trajectory inside 250 yards. I generally shoot with the large aperture. But shouldn't the rifle be zeroed with the small one?
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 7:26:07 AM EDT
i zero at 50yds with the small apt.

search here it might help you
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 7:29:12 AM EDT
Hi, Eddie,

Well, battlesight zero is just that, a battlesight zero.  It's not meant for zeroing for competition.  It's meant for shooting minute of bad guy within some reasonable amount.

For a service rifle match, I find a good 200 yd zero.  From there, I figure out how many clicks I have to go up or down for the 300 and 500 or 600 yd stages.

If you're shooting a "reduced course," then you have to find the zero for whatever range the reduced course is set for.

I'm sure this doesn't really answer your question, but I guess what I'm saying is I don't use a 25 or 50 yard zero if I'm shooting a competition at 200 yards.  

ETA:  Use the small aperture in competition.  It will give you tighter groups.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 1:37:05 PM EDT
Some guys and myself included, place the front sight at the six o'clock of the bullseye for competition.

It's easier to align the sight when you see the entire bullseye rather than just the upper half.

You could do this when you practice or in competition, they usually allow some time to zero your rifle before the match starts.

I use the small aperture also for CMP competition.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 5:38:20 PM EDT

Some guys and myself included, place the front sight at the six o'clock of the bullseye for competition.

A LOT of people do that.  I've never gotten the hang of it myself.
Link Posted: 8/3/2005 6:16:23 PM EDT
Thanks fellas. I went out today and I was very happy with the groups from the 20"  I could get at 100 & 200 yards with the Improved Chuck Santose Zero.  The problem of where in the target to place the post is actually a bigger problem for me at 100 rather than 200. When I put the target right on the tip of the post, I was in the 8 ring at 100 but in the center at 200.  I guess that's as good as I'm going to get, so I set another target and got a pretty well centered group about 1/2 " low of x ring with the post set across between 8 oclock & 4 oclock at 100 yards. I'm happy with that.
Now, my carbine is an LMT witha 16" barrel and an ARMS # 40 sight. It says standard A2 app250-300 M aperture. It has no hieght wheel on it. Should I zero this with the small aperture? When I did that today, the rifle seemed way out of whack at 200 yards when I dropped to the big aperture. So I must have done something wrong. I had it set before where it was good to 200 yards but the small app placed a round about 4 " high at 200 yards. Now it's dead on with small app to 200, but the large app has my rounds flyin' high. This seems sort of backwards.
Any insight on it?
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