Hi I'm new here. Well, I've been lurking a while but just recently registered.

Anyway, I have a few questions about uppers. I'm in the process of ordering parts for my first build (well, semi-build, I'm probably going to get a complete lower, but I haven't fully decided yet).  So Monday I ordered a Bushmaster 14.5 heavy upper. I ordered it complete, but since it'll take like 6 weeks for me to get, he said I could call back and remove the charging handle and bolt carrier assy.

I'm considering the RRA bolt carrier assembly and charging handle, but I'm a little unclear about a few things that searching the forums didn't really yield the answers I'm seeking.

-I know that the bolt carrier assembly listed here is everything I need in that regard (since it clearly states this hatall I need to have a complete upper? Or do I need the charging handle latch, latch spring, and latch pin in addition? Or would Bushmaster include all of that and all I need is literally just the charging handle itself (and bolt carrier assy obviously)? This is unclear to me, and neither site seems to specify exactly what I'd need.

-Would I need any special tools to assemble the charging handle and bolt carrier assy to the upper?

-Would Bushmaster or the RRA stuff include instructions for how to do this, or do I have to get instructions seperately?

And a little OT, I like the price of the complete RRA lower on that site (even though it's sold out of course). Are there any known fitment or finish issues between the Bushmaster uppers and RRA lowers? Should I just pay for the overpriced Bushmaster lower just to ensure proper fitment and finish compatability? Is the nut wrench required to attatch the upper to the lower different on the RRA lower than it is the Bushmaster (or are they one in the same)?

I think that's all the questions I had (only a dozen or so hanks  (I swear I looked through the forums but didn't find clear answers to my questions)

bolt & carrier and charging handle drop right in.  You would want to headspace it just to be sure.  If your in NoVA I can do that for you.  99.99% of the time a new bolt will headspace a new barrel just fine.  RRA lower with a Bushy upper would fit fine.  Sometimes RRA uppers on Bushy lowers are tight at first.  Good choice in equipment and welcome to AR15.com.

Check with these guys Gunsmoke  I think they still sell Bushy parts.  If you want if you buy a barrel, upper reciever, bolt & carrier and CH, myself or a few others in NoVA can assemble it for you, it's not real difficult.

Quoted: bolt & carrier and charging handle drop right in.  You would want to headspace it just to be sure.  If your in NoVA I can do that for you.  99.99% of the time a new bolt will headspace a new barrel just fine.  RRA lower with a Bushy upper would fit fine.  Sometimes RRA uppers on Bushy lowers are tight at first.  Good choice in equipment and welcome to AR15.com. hr

Okay, so no charging handle latch/spring/pin required? If I ordered those two items on that website then that's all I need, correct?

And what exactly do you mean by "headspace it?"

Check with these guys Gunsmoke I think they still sell Bushy parts. If you want if you buy a barrel, upper reciever, bolt & carrier and CH, myself or a few others in NoVA can assemble it for you, it's not real difficult.

Well I alrady ordered the Bushmaster upper, I think I'm just going to call and have them remove the bolt  carrier and CH from my order and get the RRA.

And I don't want people to do it for me, I wanna learn to do it myself.

Quoted: Okay, so no charging handle latch/spring/pin required? If I ordered those two items on that website then that's all I need, correct? And what exactly do you mean by "headspace it?"

Unless you buy a 'stripped' CH it will have the latch and spring and pin already on it.  Just as an upper receiver will already have the forward assist and dust door on it unless you buy it as 'stripped'.
After assembling an upper you'll want to drop in a 'FIELD' headspace gauge to make sure you don't have excessive headspace which would KaBOOM the gun.  Like I said 99.99% of the time you'll be fine using a new bolt and barrel.

And I don't want people to do it for me, I wanna learn to do it myself.

Then you'll need a vise, barrel wrench, torque wrench, roll pin set, hammer and a USGI FIELD headspace gauge.  And since you haven't done it before I'd recommend reading a USMC TM on the subject.

Quoted: Unless you buy a 'stripped' CH it will have the latch and spring and pin already on it.   And I don't want people to do it for me, I wanna learn to do it myself. hr Then you'll need a vise, barrel wrench, torque wrench, roll pin set, hammer and a USGI FIELD headspace gauge.  And since you haven't done it before I'd recommend reading a USMC TM on the subject.

Okay, so is the CH on the page that I linked 'stripped' or is it everything I need other than the bolt/carrier assy?

Well I already have a vise, torque wrench and hammer. I don't plan on fully stripping the thing soon,  so for now at least, I just want to make sure I have the tools and parts I'd need to install the CH and bolt/carrier assy and attatch the upper to the lower, or know what they are so I can get them.

Quoted: I understand your wanting to learn.  That’s great.  But, I respectfully advise you to take any offers of assistance from the local guys.  Go find the thread in the Build It Yourself forum about the guy who bought a complete upper that was MISSING the carrier key.  First trip to the range he got a nice KB.  No more rifle.  Lucky he didn’t get seriously hurt. At the very least, let someone local let you borrow the tools and have them watch while you build.  There are a few tips and tricks not necessarily in the manuals.  hr

I didn't mean to suggest that I don't want to take it to someone local and have them help me out, that would be great and I'd really appreciate it.

All I meant was, I'd want to be instructed as they do it, not have them simply do it quickly w/o any explanation of they're doing.

If you can count to ten on your fingers that all the tools you're going to need to install the charging handle, install the complete bolt assembly, and put the upper on the lower.

Well OK since it's a bushy upper and a RRA lower you may need a hammer with a plastic head to drive in the rear take down pin but that's it.  

I'd suggest studying all the AR digrams on the site located here.  Make sure to click on all the links at the bottom of that page.  Also spend the $6 and get the US Marine Corp (USMC) M16A2 manual at GI Janes.

Good luck and welcome to the club

PS: consider getting a stag arms lower from eagle they are the exact same as RRA from what I've heard.

Cool thanks for the diagram link. If anyone cares, I made images out of the pages to make it a bit easier to look through:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v423/surfacewound/M16A2_diagram01.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v423/surfacewound/M16A2_diagram02.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v423/surfacewound/M16A2_diagram03.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v423/surfacewound/M16A2_diagram04.jpg

Eagle Arms seems to be out of like every single damn lower. Does anyone know of any other places with similar prices that may actually have lowers in stock?

I would reccommend buying a copy of "The AR15 Complete Assembly Guide" from Fulton Armory:

http://www.fulton-armory.com/Books.htm

As well as explaining the complete process of assembling a rifle from scratch you get lots of tips and hints from a couple of people who do this for a living and have made all the mistakes.

Well worth buying IMHO.

Quoted: Eagle Arms seems to be out of like every single damn lower. Does anyone know of any other places with similar prices that may actually have lowers in stock?

From the Stag Arms page on their website they seem to be instock for $85.

Take a trip over to Armalite's site they have Cavalry Arms lowers for $95.  These are a bit different than your standard aluminum lowers but none the less tough.  Take a look at my post in the Cavalry Forum to see the differnces in putting together one of their lowers verses a standard AR15 lower.  All total you'll save about $32 bucks total by not having to buy a whole buttstock assembly for the Cav arms lower.