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Posted: 5/6/2004 1:10:17 PM EST
I just took an American Spirit Arms 9mm upper in trade and have a question about it. It came with a 10.5" barrel and an attached fake supressor so that it is over the 16" limit. I believe the supressor is SEVERLY affecting the accuracy of this upper. I really want to get rid of this barrel setup and get a standard 16" barrel or maybe an 11.5"/5.5" Commando type barrel with the permanently attached FH.

Question #1: Can I but a Rock River/Colt/any other maker barrel and mount it on this upper with the receiver and b/c/ch from ASA and have it function correctly?

Question #2: Does anyone make a "Commando" type barrel for 9mm?

Any help would be appreciated. I may have other questions as my knowledge base grows on this topic, so future help would also be appreciated.
Link Posted: 5/6/2004 3:59:01 PM EST
[Last Edit: 5/6/2004 4:01:01 PM EST by Kaliburz]
ASA upper....

Well, my ASA is fine, but it doesn't have the fake can. Accuracy is okay.

ASA is known to have a hit and miss w/t quality. Possible the barrel is shot out or wasn't made right. Or maybe, as stated, the can for some reason, is affecting the round. It shouldn't.....but who knows

The charging handle is 'stock'. It will work in a 223/7.62x39, so on, no such thing as a dedicated charging handle for 9mm. The upper, being ASA, prob. has that "ASA" stamped where the forward assist would be. The upper, their uppers, start life as a 223 upper before the forward assist and 223 brass deflector is milled off. I think mine still has the hole for the gas tube. If you take off the 9mm deflector and door, that upper, though ugly, will work in 223.

The ASA and RRA are copies of the Colt 9mm system. In theory, a bolt form either one should work in either upper. For barrels, look at the Rock River web site. They list a few different configurations for barrels and I think most run just about 160-180 for the 9mm barrel. I don't knwo if they come in commando, but doesn't hurt to look....

Link Posted: 5/6/2004 5:44:55 PM EST

Originally Posted By Kaliburz:
The ASA and RRA are copies of the Colt 9mm system. In theory, a bolt form either one should work in either upper.



Kaliburz speaks truth here. Though, from all the conversations I've had with the RRA and ASA guys, they all say, "make sure you headspace" if you put in a new bolt that did not originally come with it.

Link Posted: 5/6/2004 6:18:50 PM EST
I believe that this can was originall intended for a .223 bore and whoever bored it out to 9mm did a poor job. I don't believe it myself, but the first time I looked down the bore of the can, I swear I could see trail marks of bullets down it. It is that bad. It looks like someone had a drill bit that wasn't quite long enough, so they drilled one side, flipped the can over and drilled the other side, hoping they would meet in the middle - they almost did.

I heapspace everything, as a Kaboom is something I would like to avoid.

If I understand both of you so far, this is what I believe I should do:

I should be able to get a Rock River barrel and install it on this upper and go.

I should headspace check the barrel and bolt before live firing.

If this a Colt copy, it is my understanding that I will need a dedicated 9mm lower for this upper.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Link Posted: 5/6/2004 8:26:16 PM EST
A dedicated lower is not needed.....

A 223 lower will work, BUT, the hammer is the MOST important thing. If you read one of the tacked threads in this forum, it has pics about which hammers will work w/ the 9mm. If you use the wrong hammer, it will lock up and be a dog to get apart.

The 223 buffer will work with the 9mm. I am running a "stock" Cavalry Arms 223 w/ the 9mm upper. It works fine. Granted, the DPMS lower kit that they used had the 'compatable' hammer. All you will need is a magazien well adapter. There are quite a few to choose from. You have the Hytech block, which uses unmofiied Uzi mags and then the 'standards' which use notched uzi mags.

Unless you plan to run sub gun ammo in it, a heavy buffer and/or '9mm buffer' is not needed. A stronger spring might be, if you think you have too much recoil, but not much else.
Link Posted: 5/6/2004 9:15:33 PM EST

Originally Posted By Kaliburz:
A 223 lower will work, BUT, the hammer is the MOST important thing. If you read one of the tacked threads in this forum, it has pics about which hammers will work w/ the 9mm. If you use the wrong hammer, it will lock up and be a dog to get apart.



Is it true that if you ramp your 9mm bolt, you can use the original .223 hammer?
Link Posted: 5/7/2004 6:38:20 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/7/2004 3:21:17 PM EST by SBR7_11]
Only if the hammer looks like this-----


Link Posted: 5/7/2004 7:09:38 AM EST

Originally Posted By SBR7_11:
Only if the hammer looks like this-----


www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid58/p7a21929478de21856da2653f457a76fc/fc681fb2.jpg



bad link
Link Posted: 5/7/2004 11:11:31 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/7/2004 11:11:46 AM EST by mongo001]
Got it.
Link Posted: 5/7/2004 3:20:43 PM EST

Originally Posted By jake1978:

bad link



For some STUPID reason, Imagestation pics have not been showing up (I usually dont see them either). Getting to the point where I will just have to provide a URL and let people hit the link, where as I would prefer to have the picture appear.
Link Posted: 5/7/2004 11:14:03 PM EST
Yes, but ramping is like $65-80.00....but is is suppose to reduce the stress on the hammer pin due to a "gradual" re-cocking vs blunt (my description).

But a hammer is like what, less the $15.00? YOu can buy one and grind it to work and still be at leat $40.00 a head of ramping.... unless you are going full auto, then ramp, is the suggestion I hear.
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