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5/28/2020 10:18:12 PM
Posted: 12/22/2004 2:11:26 AM EDT
Hello Guys, Im looking to etch my lower reciever with a "Flaming Bomb" like was used on the old springfield 1903 rifles.  No particular reason except I want to, but i guess thats good enough.
Anyway, has anyone used the acid etching kits to do a similar project on a lower reciever, and if so, how did it turn out?
The acid etching kits are pretty cheap, and might be a cool way to personalize a rifle and get a little crazy.
Thanks in advance
Link Posted: 12/22/2004 2:49:38 PM EDT
I've not done it, but I would ask that you consider taking pics of the entire process so that other people can do it if it turns out decent.
Link Posted: 12/22/2004 3:28:38 PM EDT
depends on whether or not the anodizing of the reciever will be etched with the acid or not...

I would suggest taking off the pistol grip, and etching an area under there to see how it works.
Link Posted: 12/25/2004 5:25:19 AM EDT
I spent some time as a photo engraver. We used a blend of nitric and acidic acids and etched steel cylinders for in-line embossing of Christmas wisky wraps. Every now and then we needed to etch a gravure cylinder. This was more of a favor to a good customer. The gravure cylinder was copper and we used ferric-chloride to etch it. Well, we used aluminum trays supported under the cylinders as they turned slowly to hold the acid. Nitric and acidic acids hardly touch aluminum, but ferric-chloride goes through aluminum like s**t through a goose! My boss just laughed the first time it happened to me!
Anyway, ferric-chloride is what is used to etch printed circuits and can be found at Radio Shack. Black asphaltum (tree paint) makes a good resist. I don't know about getting through anodize though. You might have to cut the annodize with Lye first after your mask is in place.
Please tell me more about these "kits" you mention.
Merry Christmas, Ray in FLA
Link Posted: 12/25/2004 5:43:02 AM EDT
my one attempt at this was with steel, i heated the area with a propane torch, poured on melted sealing wax, let cool, then with a needle scratch the design you want then use the acid on a Q-Tip, several applications of Nitric on steel works fine, as for aluminum use the ferric-chloride..., be very carefull !!
Link Posted: 12/26/2004 2:35:38 AM EDT
Huntswith,
I put a flaming bomb on one of my lowers. I searched the web before I found artwork that wasn't too busy and would engrave nicely. Here it is.

If anyone wants to know how I engrave lowers just ask and I will post something.
Regards, Ray in FLA
Link Posted: 12/26/2004 7:28:09 AM EDT

If anyone wants to know how I engrave lowers just ask and I will post something


I would be interested in reading about how you engrave.
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 1:21:39 PM EDT

If anyone wants to know how I engrave lowers just ask and I will post something
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I would be interested in reading about how you engrave.




+1
Link Posted: 1/2/2005 9:14:20 PM EDT
+1

I would like to know how to do it.
Link Posted: 1/3/2005 10:57:49 AM EDT
I've done it prior to anodizing.   Pretty simple using the etch and stencil kits from www.etch-o-matic.com.   Just make sure to use the aluminum electrolyte; the basic stuff doesn't work well (if at all) on non-ferrous metals.  


Link Posted: 1/12/2005 2:43:21 AM EDT
How I engrave my Lowers:
I have a Gorton panto-mill. This is a pantograph milling machine, built during WWII and is designed specifically for engraving. I bought it used for about $500.

Generally these are used to engrave text. A reduction ratio is set on the arms and the text masters are placed in the copy board. Then one traces the letters with the stylus and the cutter cuts the letters in the work piece.
Now to engrave designs, I need a master. First, I printout the design on paper. Then I tape the paper to a piece of UHMW plastic about 1/8" thick. Using an exacto knife, I schrimshaw throught the printed lines into the plastic. After the paper is removed, I rub the plastic with shoe polish to bring up the lines. Then I carefully cut along the lines with a viening tool to make a shallow groove. Now the master is finished. This gets mounted to the copy board, the ratio set and then it is cut in the lower.
I also have a Haas VF-0 cnc milling machine that will engrave text all day long, but for designs it needs a program. Ones and twos are much easier on the Gorton. I know this isn't much help to those of you who don't have a panto-mill, but some engraving (trophy) shops do have panto-mills and if you make the pattern they can cut it for you. Just check first what reduction ratio they have. If they can do 16:1, and your finished lower design is 1-1/2" then your pattern would be 24" which may exceed the reach of their stylus. Little errors in the master dissappear through reduction and you should probably shoot for 4:1 or 8:1 in your master pattern.
Regards, Ray
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