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Posted: 6/13/2009 12:03:39 PM EDT
[#1]
There should be no movement. The stock is holding the takedown pin spring in, you don't want it binding the spring. Sometimes they put too much of the loctite on the threads of the screw, you might try removing some of it.
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Posted: 6/13/2009 12:40:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Is the buffer tube screwed in all the way?
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Posted: 6/13/2009 1:10:35 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Is the buffer tube screwed in all the way? And is the A2 spacer installed at the end of the buffer tube? |
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Posted: 6/13/2009 2:26:33 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
There should be no movement. The stock is holding the takedown pin spring in, you don't want it binding the spring. Sometimes they put too much of the loctite on the threads of the screw, you might try removing some of it. I have a takedown spring retainer screw, its a Denny Billet Lower, so that shouldn't be an issue. ETA: you're right about the Loctite, that's what is making it difficult to tighten. |
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Posted: 6/13/2009 2:27:06 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Is the buffer tube screwed in all the way? Yes. |
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Posted: 6/13/2009 2:28:32 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Is the buffer tube screwed in all the way? And is the A2 spacer installed at the end of the buffer tube? yes. movement is very minor, but it is there, I think I may just need to get a better screw driver and try tightening it. ETA: it's not moving in and out, but sideways a little (rotating), due the tab on the buttstock being slightly smaller than the indent on the back of the receiver. |
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Posted: 6/13/2009 3:23:22 PM EDT
[#7]
like always the proper tool is paramount. if you look at the screw slot, it is sraight walled. i.e. the slot is straight up and down on the sides, viewed from the side. most standard screwdriver blades a re tapered, like a wedge, and will "cam out" or climb out of the slot when tightened. the cure is proper srewdrivers,made for straight wall slotted standard screws. these are sold with various decriptions, including hollow ground, parallel tips, gunsmithing drivers, etc. brownells, sears, snap on,and i'm sure lots of others carry them. i also have these drivers with 3/8 drive, so i can use a ratchet to turn them. as for the loc-tite, i remove it and use my own in liquid form. |
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Posted: 6/13/2009 3:35:40 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
like always the proper tool is paramount. if you look at the screw slot, it is sraight walled. i.e. the slot is straight up and down on the sides, viewed from the side. most standard screwdriver blades a re tapered, like a wedge, and will "cam out" or climb out of the slot when tightened. the cure is proper srewdrivers,made for straight wall slotted standard screws. these are sold with various decriptions, including hollow ground, parallel tips, gunsmithing drivers, etc. brownells, sears, snap on,and i'm sure lots of others carry them. i also have these drivers with 3/8 drive, so i can use a ratchet to turn them. as for the loc-tite, i remove it and use my own in liquid form. Well, i have stripped the fucking thing so bad that I can't tighten or loosen it, even after going to home depot and buying a larger head screw driver (it's tapered). I guess I'm just going to have to live with it, I can't believe I put the entire god damn lower together no problem and this final easy step gave me so much trouble. I don't understand why they have to use such uncommon screws for these things. 
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Posted: 6/13/2009 3:52:23 PM EDT
[#9]
its just a 1/4-28 screw with a hole in it!. if you use a flat punch to kinda knock the displaced metal back into shape and get a driver that fits,and MAYBE a hand held impact driver, like used on motorcycles ( IFyou know how to use it ) it'll come out.
bright side is... its already got a hole in it to enlarge and easy-out. definitely NOT the end of the world! |
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Posted: 6/13/2009 4:02:06 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
its just a 1/4-28 screw with a hole in it!. if you use a flat punch to kinda knock the displaced metal back into shape and get a driver that fits,and MAYBE a hand held impact driver, like used on motorcycles ( IFyou know how to use it ) it'll come out. bright side is... its already got a hole in it to enlarge and easy-out. definitely NOT the end of the world! thanks, unfortunately i don't have any of those tools. |
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Posted: 6/13/2009 4:05:07 PM EDT
[#11]
I only use hollow ground screw drivers on my guns. I've boogered screws too so I invested in a good set of drivers.
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Posted: 6/13/2009 4:13:50 PM EDT
[#12]
This might be kind of a long shot but I've had a couple of people bring rifles to me that have had the problem you are describing. I've got a couple of sets of hand impact drivers, one is a MAC and the other is a Matco. Both of these hand impact sets come with a large, broad, non-tapered straight blade bit. I mention these but wonder if Craftsman or others in the do it yourself price range might too. I've had my friends hold the lower receiver with a towel under the receiver while sitting on a cement step. This has provided a solid enough area that the impact can do some good without damaging the receiver. A couple of raps with a 32 oz. dead blow and the screws pop free, it has worked both times I've tried it. Something about that impact driver pushing into the screw while turning that can't be duplicated even with a Gunsmith's screwdriver. Might be worth a try. I'm like you I wouldn't want to live with the wiggle.
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Posted: 6/13/2009 5:37:54 PM EDT
[#13]
The stock screw has a drain hole down through the center. Drill this out to accept an easy out, and remove the screw this way.
Obtain a new stock screw. Before installing the stock, apply a single piece of electrical tape to the locking tab that engages the lower receiver. Install the stock and tighten the screw. I think you’ll find the rotational play in your stock is no longer a problem. |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 7:56:10 AM EDT
[#14]
Also, when I remove the buffer and spring, and shake the lower, I can hear the A2 spacer rattling around, but the stock is as far forward as it will go, flush against the back of the receiver. Does this mean that the screw isn't all the way tightened, or something else? On my other A2 stock, I can't hear the spacer moving at all. I'm thinking perhaps the spacer and/or buffer tube are short (out of spec)? I purchased all these parts (stock, buffer tube, spacer, and screw) from PKs.
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Posted: 6/14/2009 9:16:11 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Before installing the stock, apply a single piece of electrical tape to the locking tab that engages the lower receiver. quote] This will solve your problem, guaranteed. Instead of electrical tape, I applied superglue around the stock's oval protrusion to make it wider. Let the glue dry completely before mating stock with receiver. If it still rotates, add another layer of superglue. |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 9:22:03 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Before installing the stock, apply a single piece of electrical tape to the locking tab that engages the lower receiver. quote] This will solve your problem, guaranteed. Instead of electrical tape, I applied superglue around the stock's oval protrusion to make it wider. Let the glue dry completely before mating stock with receiver. If it still rotates, add another layer of superglue. If I can get the damn screw out I will use electrical tape, thanks. |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 10:49:49 AM EDT
[#17]
OK, so I went back to Home Depot and bought the largest flat head driver they had, and backed the screw out with it no problem.
So before I attempt to install a new screw, I want to know if it's normal for the spacer to rattle around like it does. When i place the spacer and stock over the tube with the stock pushed flush against the lower, should the spacer be snug, because it's not, it rattles significantly in between the tube and the stock? Also, after backing the screw out and then trying to screw it directly into the extension tube without the stock, after about 3 or 4 rotations, it gets really tight. I'm assuming this is due to the thread locker on the screw, but not sure. Lastly, is it possible that the butt pad of the stock is causing the spacer to be loose because it doesn't seem to be shaped just right to allow the screw to tighten flush (i.e. the plastic is deformed from tightening the screw against it). See pic below. 
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Posted: 6/14/2009 11:39:46 AM EDT
[#18]
Are you sure the screw isn't just too long? Maybe it's bottoming out?
<Noob here. Just throwing out ideas. |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 12:30:44 PM EDT
[#19]
Upper buttplate screw hole should look like this, not all chewed up.
Spacer goes against extension tube like this. 
If you have a plastic spacer, you might want to pitch it and get an aluminum spacer, most of the plastic spacers I have seen are junk. You may need to replace the buttplate. maybe not but I would. Definately get another upper buttplate screw and skip the Loc-Tite, it isn't neccessary or needed. |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 12:48:40 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
Upper buttplate screw hole should look like this, not all chewed up. http://www.fototime.com/C2D5092D2C3C2F6/standard.jpg Spacer goes against extension tube like this. http://www.fototime.com/0430D81470A9197/standard.jpg If you have a plastic spacer, you might want to pitch it and get an aluminum spacer, most of the plastic spacers I have seen are junk. You may need to replace the buttplate. maybe not but I would. Definately get another upper buttplate screw and skip the Loc-Tite, it isn't neccessary or needed. Hard to see buttplate screw hole in your pic. I know how spacer goes, and I'm not using a plastic one. I am definitely going to get another upper screw, and perhaps a buttplate. Does PKs sell just the buttplate, if not, who does? |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 12:56:17 PM EDT
[#21]
Brownells sells just the buttplate.
Try DPMS and High Standard on the search engine. http://www.brownells.com |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 1:30:05 PM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Brownells sells just the buttplate. Try DPMS and High Standard on the search engine. http://www.brownells.com I'm not finding the buttplate on Brownells site. |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 1:37:03 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Also, after backing the screw out and then trying to screw it directly into the extension tube without the stock, after about 3 or 4 rotations, it gets really tight. I'm assuming this is due to the thread locker on the screw, but not sure. Sounds like the threads in the extension may be cross threaded. 
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Posted: 6/14/2009 1:40:37 PM EDT
[#24]
I just looked them up and they are listed as out of stock, big suprise there.
The extension tube may be trashed, hopefully not. |
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Posted: 6/14/2009 1:46:05 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Also, after backing the screw out and then trying to screw it directly into the extension tube without the stock, after about 3 or 4 rotations, it gets really tight. I'm assuming this is due to the thread locker on the screw, but not sure. Sounds like the threads in the extension may be cross threaded.
I thought that may be the case at first, but after looking at it, it's not. |
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