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Hi Marty,
I've been thinking that having side-vents that had an angled front edge might have some downforce associated with it. Such as this kind of parallelogram shape __ \__\ In an attempt to keep muzzle-rise lower. As the gas is coming forward behind the bullet, and exiting out the sides, it will blast against the front wall of the vent, and the angle will apply a downward and forward force on the brake when the blast of gas impinges on that front vent wall. Also, I think that the small vents on top will perform less of this function, because the side vents are so large that the gas will tend to exit there, and not nearly as much thru the smaller restricted vents on top. I realize the machining is more complex. Just a thought. |
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What do you guys think, how does this Beowulf muzzlebrake look? http://www.hunt101.com/img/357322.jpg
Bigger picture: www.hunt101.com/img/357322-big.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/img/357320.jpg Bigger picture: www.hunt101.com/img/357320-big.jpg |
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Marty,
FWIW, Bill at AA said they are using 29/64-20 on their LE barrels and his new M4 style will be threaded the same. Tony |
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Maybe I'm wrong but if I remember correctly, Bill Alexander wrote to 50AE muzzlebrake thread, that thread sizes 3/4"-28 and 49/64"-20 are acceptable thread sizes for Beowulf barrels.
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There is a post by Bill here... It confirms that he states 49/64"-20 50 Beowulf Post |
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Based on TWL's input, made some changes.
While the top vents may seem not that crucial, please note the design of the JP Bennie Cooley brake (LINK) and the MSTN QDB The thread choice of 15/16 x 20 is 1) it is UNEF 2) any 0.936 barrel can have it done 3) barrels with smaller threads can take an adapter and make it fit. Tom, this what you had in mind? |
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Looks loud
Hijack: When do you expect to be attaching these to some uppers for the 500 phantom and sending them out? I need to get one of those things |
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Yes Marty, that is just what I was thinking of. I think that a forward and downward force vector applied by the gasses on the front vent wall will work. I realize that the Cooley brake and other brakes utilize the small top vents, and I'm sure that they do perform some function. However, to my empirical thinking, the desired "high pressure jet" they they are supposed to perform is questionable in my mind, because there is such an easy path out the side that I don't know if they will really do what is intended(or as much as is wanted). I think the gas pressure is more likely to take the easy exit out the sides, and not as much thru a restricted pathway. I think only an overload of volume out the side ports will cause gas to come out the top in any really significant amounts. Of course, some will, and it might be all that is needed, so experimentation would be needed to see. However, I do think that a dual-force vector on the brake, which is provided by the slanted front walls of the side vents will help to decrease muzzle rise, and still give the forward push that will perform as a brake. You should be able to make balancing adjustments in down/forward forces by playing with this angle. 45 degrees will give you equal down force and front push. Interestingly, since it is slanted, it will have somewhat of a smoother delivery of the gas into the vents, because of that, just like the ports in a 2-stroke engine cylinder. The gas will vent into the bottom portion of the vents very slightly ahead of the top portions of the vent, due to this "progressive timing" nature of the slant porting. It could result in a smoother shooting brake. In fact, I see now that you have already implemented a "dual angle" port setup, with different angles on the rear ports and front ports. That looks like a cool idea, since gas pressures will be different at each location, and the needs of the "type of forces applied" may change over the length of the brake. From what I see in your drawing, you are going for heavier braking at the rear port where the pressure is the highest, and going for more downforce at the front port where leverage will help in reducing muzzle rise. Good plan. One thing that might be a nice addition would be an optional disc-type blast shield that could be put onto the barrel behind the brake installation like a washer. A little bit of extra diameter washer behind the brake can go a long way to reducing sound and blast back at the shooter. With a large fender washer or something, it would be something that only the people who want it would put it on, This option would allow blast shielding for those who might want it, and not cause problems with people who don't want one. It could just be a simple large diameter fender washer, put on where the peel-washer is now. Remember the angular formula, and a couple of inches in diameter of a shield behind the muzzle brake would translate into a fairly good sized cone of blast protection at the shooter position. Making it an optional add-on would eliminate any consumer objections from those who don't want it. Personally, I like to reduce the blast and sound at my face and ears when using a brake. And, I also think that this vent shape as shown in your drawing has a very cool "high-tech" look to it, that sets this brake apart from the crowd of brakes that all look the same, and can give an easily recognizable and unique appearance to your product. |
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Marty-
My thoughts on threading... 3/4-20 or 7/8-20 would both be good choices being NEF standards. I don't like the idea of going all the way to 15/16" on a bull barrel. Many bull barrels are only about 0.920" out in front so you end up with no torque shoulder to snug the muzzle device against. Maybe this is intentional and you will have a shoulder inside the brake to torque against like a Smith Vortex? 3/4-20 or 28 gives you a nice torque shoulder, but 7/8"-20 might be a really good compromise of wall thickness at the thread's minor diameter while still haveing a torque shoulder. |
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So should I go ahead and make a bunch of these? I may need some for some .500 Phantom uppers that we hope will come to fruition. Any .50 AE or Beowulf takers? Might even work for some .500 S&W shooters ....
Randall, roger on the thread, forgot about some of the 0.92 folks. 7/8 x 20 would be best as that would allow some adapters for a few 3/4 x 20 and 3/4 x 28 barrels I have sent out previously. Tom, Belleville washers would be ideally suited for this, as they function to maintain torque as is. What arfcommers call a crush washer is more or less a Belleville washer and one of the standard sizes is 0.880 hole with 1.750 OD and it will have a slight angle to it. It would work ideal. Regular steel they are about $1 a piece, SS they are about $5 a piece .... Can likely pick them up a local hardware store (maybe even Lowe's or Home Depot) So, takers for the brake at $50 in stainless? |
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I would like a muzzle break for my .50 Beowulf that is like the Barret 50 Cal Muzzle Break. Can you do this?
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While it could be done, it would be costly and quite frankly, not sure how effective. The Barrett brake is large (and heavy) and designed for the copious gas volume of the 12.7 x 99, as opposed to the much smaller gas volumes of the Beowulf and Co. The brake we show (as well as the one from SakoM92S) would be far better suited for these smaller rounds. But for a price and lots of waiting, I am sure the Barrett brake could be duplicated. You might even look into an adapter that allows mounting the Barrett brake on a Beowulf barrel. Just a thought. |
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Isnt the Armalite brake very similar? Probably easier to get a hold of one of the these, but the weight would be tremendous and IMHO screw up balance of firearm. Is recoil that much worse than the 458 SOCOM? |
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I would be in for one for my .50 Beuwolf. I would prefer it in the same finish as the barrel though instead of stainless. Is this possible?
Also, my barrel will need to threaded, can you help with this and what would the cost be? |
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We can always take the SS version and coat it to match parkerizing, we have done so before (color matched an SP-1 even) For threading, I would get with Tony at Tromix as I am so far behind on stuff. These brakes would be a matter of submitting the programming to the machine and standing back and letting it do the job while we tend to other stuff, so the brakes are not that much of a problem. |
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Count me in for one that is matched to the parkerizing then and I will work on getting the barrel threading done. All I will need is the thread pitch when that is finalized.
Thanx! |
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Oh come on, don't take the easy route and make adapters... Just make a few brakes with the smallest threads they would ever be used on and make the rest of them to the thread spec you choose for future builds. Then you can take those small ones and open them up on a case-by-case basis as required for the past customers who end up wanting them. Not to Hijack work from Tony, but I can certainly thread barrels for you guys as well... |
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Randall,
I think that angled front surface looks quite cool. Just came to my mind that maybe angle should be other way around so that brake is longer on lower side. Think about how AK- spoon shaped compensator was orientated. hat Just my 2 cents. |
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I like the looks of the original design but will be happiest with whatever works better.
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While interested I'm not sure I want to be the beta tester...
Tromix 50AE barrel has what thread already on it? Or is that muzzle device integral to the barrel? ETA: I would be interested in something that cuts muzzle climb as a PRIMARY function. Recoil reduction would be a secondary concern. |
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I agree with Shivan. I am running a hydraulic buffer that helps with recoil (although a little extra help would not hurt on the .50 Wulf). I am more interested in muzzle climb as well. |
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Cut em Marty. I will take the one for the 500P upper (LR308) that I already have from you and would be interested in an extra one for one of the other uppers we have.
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Randall - the angled design looks interesting but I would have to agree with Sako, as shown the design would INCREASE muzzle lift. If you add large vents on top the gas jet would serve to force the muzzle down and it would work.
I can make the front bevel far less pronounced and maybe add a reverse (target) crown or counter bore instead .... Last revision, I think this might actually be the best looking one ... I had a moment of clarity (or was that a bottle of Claret) and realized Ned over at MichiGunshas done several brakes like this. Look under Rifle, Shotguns, etc as well as AR-15s, and also his photo album. I love Neds work, especially his alternate approaches to checkering and stippling. Some day when I have lots of time I will try and build my next 1911 and have him do the surface work. |
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What isn't visible in my design is the back. It is actually made with a 7/8 x 20 thread and then a 0.940 counter bore. This is done so you can put a Viton O-ring over the thread and torque the brake against the O-ring (or leave it out and torque against the shoulder) to get the desired timing. It should make timing the brake a LOT easier, my main complaint with the JP brakes. Admittedly, it will leave a small step from the barrel to the brake, but to me that step is really not out of place on the AR, similar to the step from barrel to flash hider ....
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New design looks good. As stated before, muxxle climb being first priority with the benefit of a brake for less felt recoil. I am ready for it when you have them. Still want mine parked for barrel match! |
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Marty, I don't claim to know crap about brake design but I can tell you about one that works great. The 4 port fish gill brake that SSK uses on their Handcannons works very well. I shoot a .50 Alaskan which will toss 450 to 750 gr. bullets out of a 4 pound, 12 inch barrel at between 1300 and 2000 fps. The recoil of this pistol is very stiff as one can imagine and without the brake, well, you wouldn't find me shooting it. The brake may not be very tactical looking but by God it works.
ed to add: No ports on top or bottom. |
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The fish gill is considered more or less the standard in 50BMG shooting, but most of the 50BMG version are WAY too big for the ARs in 50 B, 50AE and 500P. I looked around for a smaller version (diameter and thread wise) but found none. Looks like JD has a source or makes his own. If he would be willing to share that source... |
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Any word on these brakes? Just wondering when I should make arrangements to get my .50 Wolf barrel in for threading.
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Since I carry my Beuwolf more than I shoot it I would like to know how much weight the muzzlebreak adds and what percentage of recoil reduction is actually felt. As a brown bear carry gun all those ports make nice alder collection points when you are in the uglys. I could see it as a means to stay on target for repeat shots but don't consider the Beuwolf recoil a problem in field shooting. Off the bags on the bench I think its no different than a 12 guage slug gun.
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The order is beinf processed and it should take about 4 weeks so I would guess 3 more weeks? When they come in I will post a picture including one on a scale to show how much weight they add. |
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Please make sure one is reserved for me. Still good for the parked finish to match the barrel also? Thanx! |
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roger willco! |
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Marty.....bring one to SHOT!!!
Did you consider doing a pepperpot brake? Simon |
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One will be mounted on the 500Phantom in the NIC booth, but I can bring an extra. Will also bring you dummy versions of 458 SOCOM, 338 Spectre and the 500 Phantom. Pepperpot - like the Shrewd and Vais? Was trying to avoid dust signature in prone position. |
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As Marty noted, the Michiguns site has some interesting examples that resemble the final design here. Check out the bowling pin gun page at michiguns.com and especialy the compensator on the revolver in the bottom right hand corner of the page. Spooky.hock.gif
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Is this brake being created because other brakes on the market are not working well? I'm also interested in a brake for a Beowulf and was ready to have my barrel threaded by Tromix. I cant help but wonder why or how this brake is better then what Tromix is selling. Maybe I should hold off on my puchase.
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Other brakes on the market will perform just fine, the Shrewd brand brake for the .50 Beowulf and the .458 SOCOM is one of the more common choices and folks report that it does indeed work. This brake was designed more for use with the .500 Phantom, which is a bit more powerful than the .50 Beowulf and runs at significantly higher pressure. While the Shrewd (or even the JP Recoil Eliminator) will work for that application, we wanted a more "trademark" version that set it apart from others out there. |
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They came in today (just in time for SHOT) and I like they way they turned out. Will put one on the USPS scale tomorrow but feels like about the same weight as the Shrewd brake in my uncalibrated hands.
Shown on a SS heavy bull barrel. One will be mounted at SHOT on the 500Phantom on display in the NIC booth |
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