With your trigger out of the lower you need a 3/16" piece of bar stock $1.49 at my hardware store JBweld $6.99, JBweld the piece of barstock on the side of your trigger where the  disconector spring is on your trigger.
Allow JBweld to cure(over night). Then file the piece barstock to where it portrudes about .75 thousands below the disconector spring. The piece of barstock will engage the trigger like a JP trigger. Be careful not to take to much material off the barstock reassemble file reassemble. When you get the desired trigger pull you want you want will then have to take a file so the safety can clear the trigger. BE CAREFUL not to take  too much of the down trigger so the safety still works!!!!! I can e-mail pics if this does not make sense

pics?

Try this for $.25.  Get a 1/4-28 (fine thread) allen head set screw from the the hardware store for $.25.  Run the set screw up into the grip screw hole and set the engagement of the sear and hammer.  Run the screw in with the hammer cocked until the hammer drops and back off the set screw about 1/2 turn or less ( personal preference).  Put a drop of locktite on the end of the set screw inside the lower receiver and let it dry.  You may need to cut about 1/8 inch off the grip screw and grind the edges off so that it does not bottom out on the set screw.  Then file down the safety pad on the trigger until the safety will fully engage.  File very small amounts and fit.  If you file too much the safety will not work and you have ruined your trigger.  Then polish the sear surface and hammer notch and the trigger pin.  Done.

What a great Idea !!!!!

archad & raleigh, both ideas sound like they will work.  You should make photos and descriptions and post them on forum.

any experienced "smiths" out there should comment?  wouln't want to go mess up some lower parts.

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If someone will sponsor me I will e-mail pics Chad
Raleigh's idea is much faster to do and can be adjustable I tried his on a another lower today..

I've used the screw trick a while back.  It works just fine.  What it does is taking out the excessive engagement and slack.  For better than average trigger pull, change the hammer/trigger springs out to a lighter set (seems like everyone is making this set now, from $5 up in Brownells.)  The only caveat is light primer strikes and this set up might not reliably ignite military surplus ammo.

That allen screw is the way you set a Jard trigger also. Like its stated you might need to change your hammer and trigger springs to maximize the effect.

One thing I've done on all my ARs besides the "15 minute trigger job" (which just lightens the stock springs; it doesn't take up any of the slop) is to cut the hook off the top of the hammer.  With a lighter hammer spring, the lock time is looooooooooong.  Trimming mass from the back of the hammer, out where it has a long lever arm, makes for a much shorter lock time.

That's how I solved the light primer strike problem!  SA surplus and Q3131A don't stand a chance with this set up now[beer].

Would it be safe to do the "[url=www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html]15 minute trigger job[/url]" plus use the set screw method to take up the slack?  Or, is doing both just overkill?

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Not overkill.  They treat different "symptoms" of a poor trigger.  The 15-minute trigger job reduces weight of the trigger by reducing spring tension and friction, without touching the engagement amounts or travel.  The set-screw method adjusts the engagement amount and travel.  

Just be very careful that you have a safe amount of engagement.  Be sure to test it to make sure a bang or drop won't let the hammer drop.

Thanks Mike_L

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