It takes me about 20 min a rifle, and a hand full of Q-tips per rifle.
Swing the upper open and pull the cocking handle and the BC, spray the BC with CLP and set it aside. Wipe down the inside of the upper, and then spray CLP in the extension and gas tube. Use the chamber brush and make a couple of turns, then give the extension (lugs) a new blast of clean CLP to drive the crud into the chamber. Use the Q-tips to clean the crude and finish driving it into the chamber from the lugs. Run a patch down the chamber to drive out the CLP/crude, and then switch over to copper solvent to go to work on the barrel. Once the barrel is clean, I run a coated patch of CLP down the barrel to clean out the last of the copper solvent, then a new patch to clean out any remaining CLP.
As for the soaking BC, I pull it apart and start with the small parts, leaving the carrier for last. On the bolt, I use a green scotch brite pad to clean the fouling on the gas section of the bolt, and then push a Q-tip down the firing pin channel to clean out the flakes of sealant, then a fresh shot of CLP, and wiped down. On the carrier, I will push a Q-tip into the key port to clean out the fouling, then use the back of a tooth brush with a rag to get most of the fouling out of the gas chamber, followed by a Q-tip to get out the fouling at the back of the gas chamber and the firing pin entry point. Another shot of CLP, then wiped down. The lower is just cleaned with a Q-tip, then the BC is put back together and the given a light coat of CLP and put back in the rifle.
The trick is to allow the CLP enough time to dissolve the fouling so you don’t need to scrub it off. I use BeakfreeCLP and it works really fast on dissolving the fouling. It really helps if you just pull the BC at the range and give it a good shot of CLP to soak on the ride home.
Also, only the barrel is really cleaned, the rest of the rifle just gets a oil change.
Hope this helps in some way.