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11/22/2017 10:05:29 PM
Posted: 8/21/2004 8:38:01 PM EST
Anyone have a link to this old topic? Ran a search and looked hard in the forums, but couldn't find it. Not sure if it was tacked up on a particular forum or somewhere else.

Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 8/21/2004 8:48:31 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/21/2004 8:58:09 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/21/2004 8:58:39 PM EST by FanoftheBlackRifle]
I remember seeing it, but I think its long enough ago that we'll have to wait until the archives are online to find it again.

Or not
Link Posted: 8/22/2004 4:41:15 AM EST
Thanks scottinhawaii.
Link Posted: 8/22/2004 4:56:01 AM EST

Originally Posted By Clay:
Thanks scottinhawaii.



Link Posted: 8/22/2004 6:11:36 AM EST
A few suggestions:

1) No Dremel polishing, no stoning,

2) No Dremel polishing, no stoning,

and finally

3) No Dremel polishing, no stoning.

Follow instructions exactly.


Don't like it, put new springs back in.
Link Posted: 8/22/2004 6:57:47 AM EST
FWIW, I didn't care for the results of the 15-minute trigger job.

Oh sure, the trigger felt fantastic, but the resulting light primer strikes (5-10 FTF per 30 rounds) were enough to convince me to go with after-market springs.

I first tried the JP Enterprises reduced power springs (yellow) and found that while they reduced the mis-fires somewhat, I still had FTF issues. I've since kept the the JP trigger spring, but have replaced the hammer spring with a Wofle 10% increased power spring. Result? Perfect ignition, every time.

Moral of the story? Probably should have just stayed with the factory springs, lapped the sear 30-40 times with polishing compound, and broken in the rest through natural process (500-1000 rounds).

Then again, I like to tinker...
Link Posted: 8/22/2004 12:25:38 PM EST
What ammo were you using? I agree, reinstall the stock springs if you have a problem with ignition. But I have still not had a problem.
Link Posted: 8/22/2004 12:31:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/22/2004 12:31:49 PM EST by The_Friendly_Sponge]
I spend much of my time introducing other people to the sport of shooting (and the joy of evil black rifles ). If I'm paying for someone's else's fun we're usually shooting WWB, or Wolf Polymer.

I've wondered a couple of times if my firing pin is out of spec (too short?). Guess I could always take out my calipers and check...
Link Posted: 9/18/2004 10:42:13 AM EST
Link Posted: 9/18/2004 10:44:14 AM EST
tag
Link Posted: 9/18/2004 3:13:14 PM EST
Anybody got pics and diagrams to smooth out the trigger?

I got a new cav arms lower and it got a HARD trigger. Very crisp but hard.

I would like to smooth it out some. With an inexperienced shooter it may cause them to jerk the rifle.
Link Posted: 9/18/2004 3:40:23 PM EST

Originally Posted By AnubisOwnsYou:
Anybody got pics and diagrams to smooth out the trigger?

I got a new cav arms lower and it got a HARD trigger. Very crisp but hard.

I would like to smooth it out some. With an inexperienced shooter it may cause them to jerk the rifle.



I dont believe you can "tune" a stock trigger to have less Crispness. You can however trade it for a slide creep.

The AR 15 trigger groups are only surface hardened, so you can only polish and slightly radius the trigger contact angle to the hammer. This will increase the creep(Noticeably) but not compromise the trigger's reliability. Key here is polish, not take off material.

I typically use Wet sand 1500 grit sandpaper(Available at Auto parts stores) and some CLP to do the polishing. Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 9/18/2004 3:48:16 PM EST
Yep, My 15 minute job resulting in a nice pull but it had a bad FTF issue after that ( found that out in the middle of shooting a rifle match)

Went back to stock springs.

Save up the money and get a Rock River two stage trigger. Trust me.

Link Posted: 9/19/2004 5:30:18 AM EST
I took some red rubbing compound from my dremel kit, like the stuff that jewelers use for polishing, and put a glob on my trigger/sear contact surface. Then I cocked the hammer and snapped the trigger a bunch of times, cleaned it off, and put on some CLP. It certainly helped and is quick and easy. I used a Q tip to put it on and clean it off. I put a rag in my hand and used it to catch the hammer after snapping the trigger so it wouldn't slam into the receiver. All this is done with the lower removed from the upper of course, and no magazine in the well :)
Link Posted: 9/19/2004 6:33:57 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/19/2004 6:34:26 AM EST by FMD]
^^^^^^^^^^^

Did something similar last night to a new Stag lower I put together for a "precision" rifle for the wife.

After about 20 minutes, the smile on her face was great!

Didn't even bother with the springs.
Link Posted: 9/19/2004 8:00:29 PM EST
1. Let a good friend of mine actually polish and grind my hammer, trigger. He knows his stuff and has done it a bunch so hes good at it. For several hunded rounds I had like a 3lb trigger with very little travel. Really nice. But this guy does this for precision rifles, whereas I do only some of that. So after several hundred/thousand rounds, the trigger started letting go when it wasnt supposed to and I woudl get a double tap because of the weight of my finger on the trigger ( in otherwords a bump fire with the rifle to my shoulder ), or worse the hammer would fall when the buffer hit the buffer tube and cause the hammer to get caught on the firing pin. This kept gettin worse, so I put in a new untouched Hammer. Now I kinda have a happy Medium between factory and the friends free trigger job.

I would now recomment no grinding or cutting on any AR unless its only for the benchrest croud even though I still think my friend does good work. The trigger did what he said it would.

2. I cut one of the legs off the spring that goes to my trigger. I have founnd no bad effects to this yet.
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