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Page AR-15 » AR Discussions
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Posted: 2/25/2007 1:39:07 PM EDT
This is what my 9mm SBR with a 5.5" barrel looks like after 1000 rounds of no failured to feed, fire, or extract.

I used two factory colt SMG mags, and one converted Uzi mag. Ammo was S&B 124grn.

No cleaning in the 3 weaks it took me to get to the range and fire all the rounds. I finaly got this thing running good!!!!










Link Posted: 2/25/2007 1:43:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Impressive, 1000 rounds and no jams.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 1:44:54 PM EDT
[#2]
Good lord that is dirty.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 1:58:44 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Good lord that is dirty.
+1
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 2:00:05 PM EDT
[#4]
Sounds impressive!!!  I think she needs a bath now
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 2:24:19 PM EDT
[#5]
I think I'd just run it through the dishwasher.

Link Posted: 2/25/2007 2:26:21 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 2:27:10 PM EDT
[#7]
Damn.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 2:28:42 PM EDT
[#8]
Looks like you were shooting WWB as dirty as that looks.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 2:31:46 PM EDT
[#9]
sweet now go try it with 5.56
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 3:10:42 PM EDT
[#10]
no big deal - no gas system.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 4:47:50 PM EDT
[#11]
I lubed it up real good before doing this...

I don't think a gas system would get this dirty would it?

Edit to add....

Most of this crud is unburnt powder from what I can see.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 4:52:56 PM EDT
[#12]
Do you guys think I may have a problem with my setup?

Should it get this dirty?
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 5:07:57 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:
Do you guys think I may have a problem with my setup?

Should it get this dirty?



No and Yes
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 5:09:48 PM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
Do you guys think I may have a problem with my setup?

Should it get this dirty?


Ease up on the lube!
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 9:02:47 PM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Do you guys think I may have a problem with my setup?

Should it get this dirty?


Ease up on the lube!


+1

Just a light film will do. Any more and it just collects all the powder residue and turns into that muddy crap you see.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 9:07:27 PM EDT
[#16]
Less lube and flip those KNS pins around...they are backwards. That upper one isn't even grooved for the "J Pin" in the hammer. In fact, I'd replace it all together...especially with 9mm.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 9:28:07 PM EDT
[#17]
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 10:07:07 PM EDT
[#18]
+1
I want to see this thing at 2,000.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 10:39:35 PM EDT
[#19]
the KNS pins are the same pins?


I don't get it..... How is one pin different from the other?


Why replace them? I don't want to hammer my registered lower.

Any input on this?
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 10:46:27 PM EDT
[#20]

Quoted:
Do you guys think I may have a problem with my setup?

Should it get this dirty?


Try a different ammo. The S&B is dirty.
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 11:00:27 PM EDT
[#21]
Keep shooting till it jams, then take photos
Link Posted: 2/25/2007 11:53:19 PM EDT
[#22]

Quoted:
Keep shooting till it jams, then take photos

+3
Keep going man!
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 1:30:59 AM EDT
[#23]

Quoted:
I lubed it up real good before doing this...

I don't think a gas system would get this dirty would it?

Edit to add....

Most of this crud is unburnt powder from what I can see.


Hey, keep that to yourself.

That is a filthy animal.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 4:20:34 AM EDT
[#24]
Keep going. 1000rds is nothing. Go till you have a failure.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 5:19:27 AM EDT
[#25]
Oh, no doubt man!!! I didn't realize it was the real deal.

The hammer pin (solid heat-treated SS) is the one that you currently have in your trigger pin location. It is grooved in the middle for the hammer's j-pin. The trigger pin, (if it is current design which it should in fact be since this is a Gen II kit) doesn't have this groove since this pin is tapped for the screw holes. They have been known to break in 9mm config so they did away with this groove on the already basically hollow triggger pin. (Only the early Gen I kits had both pins grooved, then later on switched to 1 grooved, 1 smooth. Having the near hollow hammer pin could still proove to be an issue in 9mm config in particular, thus the Gen II design.) If this is the case, you can be sure that the j-pin has already worn the trigger pin itself, not to mention the hammer's j-pin has spent it's life fully compressed. It WILL fail like this, especially in an auto 9mm lower. I'd order up another Gen II kit and pull your whole fire control group to inspect the old pins and get a thorough cleaning in. This will also allow you to really clean up the hammer / trigger mating surfaces to get that nice trigger pull / break. I can't imagine how shitty feeling that FCG has to feel with the hammer all bound up like that. I'm surprised it made it this far. There have been pics of both failures and grooved trigger pins from incorrect installs posted here in the past.

ETA: You could just call KNS and tell them what happened and they will send you a new trigger pin free of charge. I'd also ask for two new screws as they strip easily.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 6:36:44 AM EDT
[#26]
wet is always better than dry  -WyattT, keep it going
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 6:40:26 AM EDT
[#27]
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 7:01:17 AM EDT
[#28]

Quoted:

Quoted:
wet is always better than dry  -WyattT, keep it going

This is incorrect.  Over-lubing does nothing but attract dirt and other crap.


+1 Try some Mobil-1 or Slip2000 more sparingly.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 9:09:51 AM EDT
[#29]

This is what my 9mm SBR with a 5.5" barrel looks like after 1000 rounds of no failured to feed, fire, or extract.



That's why I love my 9mm rifles.  

They just keep on going.  

I have shot well over 1000 rds through my RRA 9mm SBR (9.25" barrelled) w/o cleaning.   Mostly Mag Tech and WWB.   She still runs like clock work when I'm done.  

The only time I've ever had a problem was when I've been shooting my 5.5" suppressed set up.    It failes to lock back on empty mags after about 250rds and will start having Feeding problems @ 350.   Those damn suppressors are dirty.  But that's quickly fixed by pulling the bolt out and wiping the bolt and inside of the upper down quickly.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 1:31:47 PM EDT
[#30]
Me have 56K!
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 2:25:52 PM EDT
[#31]
Anyone who thinks dry is better than wet should read the Pat Rogers article on M4carbine.net...wet is better..in a 9mm AR its blowback right..so no direct gas operation..yea you can get by a little dry with that.On a regualer AR keep it wet and have no regret..run it dry and it will die not to mention parts wear.Also there was an article way back on crane testing diferent lubes see the conclusion they came to.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 4:26:24 PM EDT
[#32]
...for my intended useage, and I suspect the majority of the people who would read this thread, DRY IS BETTER

...by dry I don't mean bone dry, I mean a light coating of something like Mobil-1 15w50.

...by light coating I mean less than 10 drops total and a little G96 on a rag.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 4:30:26 PM EDT
[#33]
If you use moly lube you wont see as much crud.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 4:34:21 PM EDT
[#34]
I prefer a good synthetic in above zero temps unless I happen to end up in the desert.
Link Posted: 2/26/2007 4:56:53 PM EDT
[#35]

Quoted:
Anyone who thinks dry is better than wet should read the Pat Rogers article on M4carbine.net...wet is better...


I did read it, and I don't agree.

How long do you think a drop of lube down the gas tube is going to last?  How long do you think a drop of lube in the vents on the bolt will last?  He recommends that you lube the entire bolt carrier, even though the the bolt carrier only rides in the reciever on skinny rails at 2, 4, 8 and 10 o'clock.  What does the rest of the lube do to make the gun run?

Keep in mind, he sells lube.
Link Posted: 2/27/2007 5:50:53 AM EDT
[#36]
I could never do that to my baby
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