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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/30/2005 11:43:00 AM EDT
i am almost done building a kit now i want to clean it up and finish the reciever by blarking or parkerizing or baking some kind of coating... what is it that most people end up using? and where do u get it?
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 11:50:34 AM EDT
i like moly gun kote but that has to be baked then there is dura kote look in the search function under those names see if any thing comes up
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 12:06:47 PM EDT
I'm really not trying to be a wise-ass... but,

What is Blarking?

- AG
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 12:09:59 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Aggie_Gunner:
I'm really not trying to be a wise-ass... but,

What is Blarking?

- AG



Yeah, what he said
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 12:19:17 PM EDT
i think he ment blacking
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 12:22:00 PM EDT
IIRC, the finish that ORF used was called "blark". Personally, I don't understand why people try to match their receivers to the rest of the rifle. Why not just refinish the entire rifle... this way the whole thing matches. Most of the original finishes on the Polish and Romanian kits are crappy at best. I prefer MolyResin or GunKote. They're much nicer and more durable that the orginal factory finishes IMHO.
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 12:55:19 PM EDT
yeah blarking is ORFs way of doing it i guess. where do i get this gunkote stuff? my gun shop dont got it....:P
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 12:58:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/30/2005 12:58:32 PM EDT by Aggie_Gunner]
Thanks for the "blarking info"

BTW, Norrell's Moly Resin is awesome.

Norrell's Moly Resin

- AG
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 1:08:31 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Aggie_Gunner:
Thanks for the "blarking info"

BTW, Norrell's Moly Resin is awesome.

Norrell's Moly Resin

- AG



+1 on the Molyresin. I prefer it for parts that will fit in my oven. If they the project won't fit in the over (ie. refinishing AKs) then I've used DuraCoat with great success.
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 3:55:58 PM EDT
I used Durabake on some Garand parts and they turned out great.
I have a milled receiver Russian AK built by Firing Line with a Duracoat finish that also looks great.
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 4:02:10 PM EDT
Duracoat definitely looks great. It seem like I'm always hearing/reading that the molyresins are more durable. I seem to hear this of the KG Kote, especially. It could be yet another opinion based argument (ala.....Colt better than Bushmaster, AK better than AR, HK better than God, etc). But it is what I hear.

Ask some of the industry partners that finish weapons. I'm sure they'll give you some EXPERIENCED based feeback, certainly more than my own.
Link Posted: 8/30/2005 4:06:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/30/2005 4:07:10 PM EDT by h8mtv]
This stuff works really well if everything is degreased and is shaken up REALLY well.
Link Posted: 9/1/2005 1:39:36 AM EDT
As a "cold" option, you could have your receiver finshed witha high quality 2-part Epoxy primer.

DuPont's black Epoxy Primer is their 2790S with 2707S activator. Any DuPont Paint shop should have it, as well as body shops that use DuPont products. You'll probably only need 8 ounces activated to do a AK47 receiver several times over.

DuPonts Epoxt primers are extremely durable. Once cured they are solvent resistant and totally moisture proof. These Epoxy's stick tenaciously to all types of surfaces: Metal, plastics, even wood. (I saw those light bulbs go off just now...YES! You can use it to refinish the wood furniature on an AK too.) That's the key to the Epoxy's success, it is a very sticky primer. So what good is that for you? Well, it won't bubble or lift as long as whatever it was shot on has been cleaned well. It is flexible and can expand and contract with you guns metal parts without cracking or chipping.

These primers can also be custom tinted to an extent, so for all you desert Camo fans out there you can now finish your gun without having to worry about it peeling off.
Link Posted: 9/1/2005 8:24:22 PM EDT
Doesn't really matter. If you look closely at pre-ban guns they don't all match. Got a norinco gun is blued with a parked receiver. Doesn't look too bad. Personally I don't like to do any more work than needed. If you got a nice kit, then just do the receiver. If it messes up redo it later.
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 4:43:53 PM EDT
I will be using Duracoat. Lauer Custom Weaponry rebrands Sherwin Williams' Polane-T two part industrial finish. They also make it in dozens more colors. It's a 12:1 paint to hardener setup and is pretty easy to use and requires a decent $25 to $40 to do correctly. But, from what I've seen from moly resin and EVERYTHING that comes in a can, it can go on much thinner and be more durable. Moly resin HAS to be baked at 300d but DC will harden over a 3 week period on it's own and continue a little over time. It's just like concrete. The longer it is on the metal, the stronger it will be. It is strong enough when fully cured just like concrete, but after 40 years it's even harder.

I will be using Duracoat because it goes on so damn thin with my airbrush that I'll be able to get every little nook and crannie around every rivet and not worry about overspray or a thick finish with thick blobs on top of rivets.

www.lauerweaponry.com

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