if I were to refinish an AK, and then put the complete reciever in the oven to finish the curing process, would the 300 degrees damage the springs inside?
just curious, thanks.

Probably not but why not just take out the trigger group. Its pretty easy to do.

well I've heard that when you put the pins back in that it chips the finish off.

Quoted: well I've heard that when you put the pins back in that it chips the finish off.

Negative, I have painted 6 AKs, and havent chipped paint yet.. I would recoment taking the FCG group out, it would be more likely to damage the finish leaving them in.. See, when you paint, the paint will stick to the receiver and the pins.. When the pins rotate, you could cause the finish to peel.. Not to mention you just painted you FGC up and that could cause problems.. Not to mention, you take the risk of changing the temper of your springs??

Remove the FCG and heat up the barreled reciever to 90 degrees F.   Use Brownell's Alumahyde II in Matte Black.

Brownell's Alumahyde II   AK gun finish

I've redone 2 rifles with the one can, I can post pics if you'd like. It's great stuff, easy and takes a beating!!  Oh, and it looks awesome, too.

Quoted: Remove the FCG and heat up the barreled reciever to 90 degrees F.   Use Brownell's Alumahyde II in Matte Black. Brownell's Alumahyde II   AK gun finish I've redone 2 rifles with the one can, I can post pics if you'd like. It's great stuff, easy and takes a beating!!  Oh, and it looks awesome, too.

 Please post pics!

yeah seriously, lets see 'em. That would be awesome, thanks.

Wait until your wife is out of the house.







SAR-1, Brownell's baking lacquer, K-Var plum furniture, US slant brake.

First off, I would suggest using MOLYRESIN and an airbrush! I know a lot of people tend to like Alumahyde but with that product you have to wait 1 to 2 weeks before you can touch your gun. Plus, Alumahyde has a tendency to melt off with strong solvents like brake cleaner or gun scrubber.  If you visit www.molyresin.com , it states that curing at 300 degrees will not damage the springs.  You may however want to remove the FCG anyway so that you are sure to coat the entire inside of the receiver.  I recently refinished my nasty beat up Maadi ARM with semi-gloss black Molyresin and couldn't be happier. Nothing can take off molyresin except a sand blaster.

Here are some pics of my refinished Maadi...

My refinished Maadi

Also, here is a step by step guide for refinishing that I found very helpful...

How to Refinish Guide

Quoted: First off, I would suggest using MOLYRESIN and an airbrush! I know a lot of people tend to like Alumahyde but with that product you have to wait 1 to 2 weeks before you can touch your gun. Plus, Alumahyde has a tendency to melt off with strong solvents like brake cleaner or gun scrubber.  If you visit www.molyresin.com , it states that curing at 300 degrees will not damage the springs.  You may however want to remove the FCG anyway so that you are sure to coat the entire inside of the receiver.  I recently refinished my nasty beat up Maadi ARM with semi-gloss black Molyresin and couldn't be happier. Nothing can take off molyresin except a sand blaster. Here are some pics of my refinished Maadi... My refinished Maadi Also, here is a step by step guide for refinishing that I found very helpful... How to Refinish Guide

+1

Great looking rifle tapeo1!

I just coated some AR parts with molyresin. Very easy to use. I whole heartedly recommend it.

I'll be using molyresin on my SAR1 this spring. I just have to decide if I want to use some of the Colt dark gray I have or order some matte black.

Gunkote w/ an airbrush works pretty well also.   Same pre heating and final heating to cure.

Yep, Gunkote is another fine product.  Gunkote along with Molyresin are probably the two best options for a DIY refinisher.  They both hold up to anything you can throw at them less a sandblaster.