i just refinished my gun by spraypainting it black and putting polyurethane on it but its still sticky and will scratch very easily. I painted the wood and the metal and used the polyurethane one the wood n metal also. Was this dumb or not. Also how long will the poly take to dry? Ive waited a day already, it was spray on by the way if that helps

You painted the wood and metal with poly? Not the best of ideas. Might take a while. Temp and humidity will be a big factor.

Not good. You may want to look into getting it professionally stripped and refinished. What type of AK is it?

ITS A WASR, why is it not good?

Get it stripped then blued. Take wood of and refinish.

I myself would never put poly on metal. When the metal gets hot the poly will gum up and melt. Did you put poly on the barrel? If I had a wasr and wanted cheap refinish job I would spray evenly with BBQ black paint. You can fix up a wasr easily and cheaply over time. Start with new FCG. Throw in us made double hook trigger, refinish wood.

Quoted: ITS A WASR, why is it not good?

Because polyurethane is known to the state of California to cause cancer and other reproductive harm. So now that you have already gone and done it, you better go to the doctor and tell him to feel your nads.

Poly works good over wood, I've never thought about doing it over a metal finish.

A good cheap metal paint/finish is Aluma-Hyde II at brownells.com stronger than any spray paint.  But like most add on finishes, it will come off with harsh cleaning solvents.

The best idea is to strip the finish you did on the metal and use this or a cold bluing solution for the metal.  But since it's a wasr I guess it was already parkerized, and that would be hard to take off.

-mark

Quoted: i just refinished my gun by spraypainting it black and putting polyurethane on it but its still sticky and will scratch very easily. I painted the wood and the metal and used the polyurethane one the wood n metal also. Was this dumb or not. Also how long will the poly take to dry? Ive waited a day already, it was spray on by the way if that helps

Gee whiz Slappy..Sort of sounds like a mess bro..

I poly sprayed my AK stock that you saw on the other link after staining, not painting,...and even that was a poor choice of finish coating on my part. Better to do a rubbed finish like BLO or try out the Birchwood Casey wood refinishing kit, which I have had great success with.

I've sprayed a few metal parts on a CETME with black Krylon once and regretted it. It just won't adhere to the metal very well no matter how much you degrease. The best thing to do is refinish the metal with Alumahyde from Brownells for a do-it-yourself project if you don't have access to a parkerizing set up.

Funny how if you accidentally paint something, it will never come off, but anything you intentionally paint may eventually flake?!?!

The wood is easier. You can paint it if you prep the wood real well. However, the only wood I painted, ended up flaking so bad that I stripped the wood and started over. So I can't recommend that either.

I'm afraid Jar420 may be right. Let it dry for a week and then see how it goes. You'll probably end up taking it to a gunsmith to sandblast if you're already not liking the results.

The good news is that it's a WASR and not an expensive gun. You have a good platform to experiment with, and I look forward to reading how you work it out. Good luck amigo!

+1 on the paint and poly on your AK.  If you don't want to take it to a gunsmith you can sand off the paint and poly and refinish with what everyone is recommending-AlumaHyde II.  I did an AK in Aluma Hyde Semi Gloss Black and it came out very nice.  Just hang it in a warm place to dry and don't touch it for two weeks.

www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117&title=ALUMA-HYDE+II

I recommend you also pick up a few extra spray heads.

It's going to take some elbow greese but you should be able to get your AK back in great shape.

Send it to Duke Nukem. He will blue it for 150$. Blueing is more authentic looking. He will be doing my Yugo folder.

Also ask the guys here BEFORE you do a project. itis always good to here different opinions first.

Quoted: Send it to Duke Nukem. He will blue it for 150$. Blueing is more authentic looking. He will be doing my Yugo folder. Also ask the guys here BEFORE you do a project. itis always good to here different opinions first.

Duke does a great job refinishing AK's!

Quoted: Blueing is more authentic looking.

unless of course the original finish was parkerized, in which case bluing would not be as authentic as having it re-parkerized.  

norrell's moly-resin works good,

used it on an ar15 and would use it on an ak anyday.

Or...if you want the absoloute cheapest spray on solution...

Got to home depot and buy *denatured* alcohol.  remove the grips and wood and spray down the entire rifle with the alcohol... the paint will bubble and come off. Scrub it with a toothbrush and get it all off... and get all the oil out of every crack.

Bake it in the oven at 250 degrees for an hour, and clean it again. This is to get out all of the oil.

Now, go to walmart and buy some duplicolor black hi temp ceramic spray paint ($3).

Spray it down with a LIGHT coat.  let it dry... spray it with another LIGHT coat... let it dry... do this a few times and then put it in the oven at 350 for 3 hours or so.

let it cool,put the stock and grips back on and oil it up.


It'll come out looking great and it holds up well to everything except the denatured alcohol.

This is the best finish you'll get for the price... except cold blue I guess... not as nice as the gun sprays but pretty darn good.

Did two of my ak's.

http://www.flkitesurf.com/old/aks.jpg

I think I might try the parkerizing next though... sounds like fun.

Thanks for all of your imput guys i REALLY appreciate it. The poly is drying and wont scratch and i didnt use it on the barrel except for a tiny bit by the handgaurds on the barrel which will come off but the rifle looks great now but i wont get my hopes up for after i take it shooting. I hope the paint doesnt make the barrel look like crap, well heres hopin

Refinished my WARS with Gun Coat. Looks great and is tough. First time I tried high heat black but it came off every time I bumped it agaist anything. We've had good luck with duracoat also. Just finished a shotgun for a guy. All we had to do was degrease it with accetone and spray it.

+1 on Aluma-Hyde II. Very good stuff.

Quoted: Or...if you want the absoloute cheapest spray on solution... Got to home depot and buy *denatured* alcohol.  remove the grips and wood and spray down the entire rifle with the alcohol... the paint will bubble and come off. Scrub it with a toothbrush and get it all off... and get all the oil out of every crack. Bake it in the oven at 250 degrees for an hour, and clean it again. This is to get out all of the oil. Now, go to walmart and buy some duplicolor black hi temp ceramic spray paint ($3). Spray it down with a LIGHT coat.  let it dry... spray it with another LIGHT coat... let it dry... do this a few times and then put it in the oven at 350 for 3 hours or so. let it cool,put the stock and grips back on and oil it up. It'll come out looking great and it holds up well to everything except the denatured alcohol. This is the best finish you'll get for the price... except cold blue I guess... not as nice as the gun sprays but pretty darn good. Did two of my ak's. www.flkitesurf.com/old/aks.jpg I think I might try the parkerizing next though... sounds like fun.

Bake it in the oven with FCG in?

Yep. I did mine 2 years ago, no problems. Kept the temp 350 or less..

most people here seem to prefere gunkote to alumahyde

Pretty much any claner with TCE in it (brake cleaner usually has it) will take off the finish you just put on it. You'll be left eith the original park and most of the wood stain. If you stil want to refinish, use MolyResin or duracoat of the finishes mentioned so far to avoid accidental finish removal from cleaning chemicals. Paint, poly, and alumahide will disappear at the first hint of a strong chemical. I found out the hard way.

Right thanks forgot to mention, the use of alcohol was only to remove the previous paint jobs... I use brake cleaner for only degreasing.

Hey guys, i am happy to be able to say once the poly dried (took 6 days) nothing will scratch the gun and the paint worked perfectly after i bumped 60 rds out of it real fast. The weather was cold as hell but the barrel was very hot and the poly did just fine. I would however not recomment this technique. There was only a tiny bit of poly on the barrel by the handguard but it didnt melt so i am needless to say VERRRRRY happy i didnt ruin my gun. I only have one regret n that is that i didnt refinish the wood. The black paint has held up great but when i spraypainted the stock all the dents became very very visible. I just wish i would have refinished the gun in a nice wood tone. Longhorns made me jealous, but im happy with the black. What im deciding now is if i should get a taurus 24/7 or a yugoslavian underfolder from aim surplus. God damn i got addicted to guns fast


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