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Posted: 12/30/2004 11:54:29 AM EDT
first let me say the guys at ironwood are awsome
i put in my order on fri and he emailed methe next mon to tell me he shipped out my stockset
(was expecting atleast a week or 2 wait)

here she is after sanding to 500 grit
stained with my vers on a polish orange/brown (failed horribly but i like the color)
and 5 coats of tungoil
im still gonna do atleast few more coats of tungoil and poly but i wanted to share

Link Posted: 12/30/2004 1:47:35 PM EDT
Nice, very very nice.
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 2:50:21 PM EDT
And you will put those in the mail to me as soon as those last coats are done drying right????  

Looks very nice!
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 3:15:26 PM EDT
How much???
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 3:33:38 PM EDT
its like $85 + shipping and worth every penny  
but the nice thang is it counts as us parts

Link Posted: 12/30/2004 4:38:45 PM EDT
real nice, post some pics when you have the set installed.
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 4:43:12 PM EDT
They look great.

Tagged to see pics of them on.
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 5:24:59 PM EDT
Socandyman..  if you are going to tung oil them, why poly?  
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 5:50:07 PM EDT
lol you know i dont know
thats what i was told to do
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 6:28:04 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/30/2004 6:42:37 PM EDT
The buttstock and lower look fantastic.  It would be nice if they would 'curve', warp, or whatever the upper like found on the Russian laminate.
Link Posted: 12/31/2004 3:43:26 AM EDT
Socandyman, if you are not going to expose the stock to extremes, (let it lay in water for hours at a time, hammer/bang on the stock, etc.) the Tung oil alone will suffice.
It's reasonably water resistant on it's own, just wipe it down once inside if you get caught in the rain.
It doesn't take as much abuse as poly, but unless you are extremely tough on them it doesn't matter.
The nice thing is that you can renew or add to Tung oil by light sanding or buffing with steel wool then adding fresh coats of oil.
If poly ever needs refinishing you pretty much have to strip it and start over.
Plus, to me it usually is too shiny. It's generally easier to get a matte finish with Tung oil, or leave it shine if you want that look.

My hunting rifles that I've restocked or refinished are Tung oil finished.
I'm careful with them, but I do push through bush, hunt in the rain/sleet, keep them oiled, and wipe them down, etc. and they still look good.
For me the ease of renewing the finish outweighs the added protection given by the Poly.

The Ironwood stuff is a great product, I like the look, and I like the parts count addition.
Link Posted: 12/31/2004 4:10:16 AM EDT
I agree with what rain said. I have an SAR1 posted in the AK pics thread that has multiple Tung oil coats. The tung oil penetrates the wood, and that is a better long term solution vs. a surface coat. It just gives you more options down the road, if and when you drop or scratch it or whatever. Unless it is gonna be a display gun and wont ever be shot, or taken out and played with. Just my .02. Looks nice
Link Posted: 12/31/2004 8:10:40 AM EDT
yea its going to b a safe queen i have a milled bulgi i shoot
Link Posted: 12/31/2004 6:10:33 PM EDT
Rain hit it exactly...  tung when done properly with fresh oil is very hard/durable when dried..

Poly has no place on a stock.

Link Posted: 12/31/2004 6:27:08 PM EDT
well its only got 6 coats we will see when it has 10 or 12
Link Posted: 1/1/2005 3:40:01 AM EDT
Socandyman...  just be sure to allow enough time for the tung oil to dry between coats.  If you don't it will gum up on you.  

I like danish oils..  get some sanding sponges and start to work the oil in with the sanding sponge.  Little gravy forms and you can get a rock hard finish that is as smooth as glass, or a baby's bottom, your choice.

YYMV, but this is my method.  I have almost stripped out the stock set you sent me through Josh's Christmas give-away.  When I am done I will post some pics to let you see...
Link Posted: 1/6/2005 12:23:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/6/2005 12:29:08 PM EDT by Hk_Kommando]
MAN, you guys got it ALL WRONG,he
Look at my Yugo 59, the stock on this thing was slathered in cosmo, the finish was all over the place, and the wood looked like a dog used it as a chew toy (ok, ok, it had a few dings.)

It turned out GREAT, the pic does not show it in it's proper glory.  

Try it, I GUARANTEE you will not only have great success with it, you'll use it again,and again!!


PLUS, you can adjust the stain to your particular liking, as you can see, mine came out a REDDISH-tint, just the way I wanted.   Hooah!

One more thing, the "gravy" mentioned in the above reply, that's called "wet sanding" and fills in the grain of the wood to create a smoother finish.
Link Posted: 1/6/2005 2:55:13 PM EDT
i have 11 coats on her now ill try and get a pic up later tonight
Link Posted: 1/7/2005 12:28:49 PM EDT
How many parts does that count towards complience?

Link Posted: 1/7/2005 3:06:04 PM EDT
3 same as any stockset
handguards count as 1
Link Posted: 1/7/2005 7:16:44 PM EDT
I would still go tung or one of the other oils..  but I have a complete wood shop and use nothing but danish oils and tung oil on my furniture.

I am refinishing a Polish laminated handguard set I got from ORF's "piss poor kits".  It looked horrible when I got them in...  drug behind a truck??oh no, used as replacement tracks on a tank, maybe???  I am not busting ORF out, at almost nothing out of my pocket, I got a decent kit.  I knew the condition before I started...  I will post pics as soon as GB upgrades my membership so I have access to the server.
Link Posted: 1/8/2005 7:18:59 PM EDT
Who and where is ORF?? ??
Link Posted: 1/9/2005 1:04:31 AM EDT
ohio rapid fire
if your thinking lets go get a kit they have been sold out for some time
Link Posted: 1/9/2005 3:02:30 PM EDT

I am still waiting on mine.  Matt at Ironwood told me two weeks and I guess he wasn't lying.  

I got the Ironwood Walnut for my SLR95 so I could get rid of the black synthetic butt hole stock.

After researcheing for several weeks, I will be using the Birchwood kit.

I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

Anyone know a company that I can send the barrell to and have them remove the muzzle break, thread the barrel and put on the slant break?

Link Posted: 1/9/2005 3:40:49 PM EDT
email jnewt on the ee
Link Posted: 1/9/2005 5:37:17 PM EDT
Hey socandyman, does your Ironwood set have the hole drilled for the Cleaning rod in the lower handguard? I ask because I have an Ironwood Maple set in-bound and just wanted to know. Yours looks great. I am going for a reddish finish on mine. I'm practicing with my stain on the take-off set, and I have some "Low Gloss" Tung oil. I'll probably do a third coat of stain to darken it a little, then many coats of Tung oil. Who knows, if the Handguards turn out okay, they may show up in the EE to defray some of my conversion costs.
Link Posted: 1/9/2005 6:31:21 PM EDT
no mine dosnt have the hole
you can get them tho
you just have to tell them to do it
i used high gloss i liked it more after trying both
im actually now on my 3rd coat of poly even tho every1 said not to
Link Posted: 1/9/2005 6:42:14 PM EDT
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