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Posted: 5/18/2005 1:03:38 PM EDT
I have used allumahyde 2 on two builds but want to use someting more durable. Is duracoat more durable than allumahyde 2?All that I want to finish is my ak-74 receiver with matte black.Do I need to sandblast the receiver or just scuff it up?

any info would be very helpfull

thanks BLM
Link Posted: 5/18/2005 7:23:09 PM EDT
Duracoat is a two part epoxy with a quicker curing time than Alumahyde II. That is the only advantage I can see to it. It is not more durable than Alumahyde and is much more expensive.
I have had really good luck using Alumahyde and have no complaints. But I am a little impatient not wanting to wait a week for it to cure. The last AMD I build I let the Alumahyde dry one day then stuck it in the oven for 2 hours at 170 degrees.
As far as prepping the metal, I used hogs hair and medium grade plumbers abrasive on the receivers to get it to bond. Degreased with trichlor, then alcohol, then heated the metal up with a hi temp gun, then sprayed.
Seems to work pretty well!
Link Posted: 5/18/2005 9:11:18 PM EDT
Whatever type of paint-on finish you use, it will adhere better if you first strip to bare metal and apply a coat of "parkerizing" in some form. This does not have to be fancy. You can use a rust remover called Oxi-Solv to put down a coat of zinc phosphate. Supposedly you can use Naval Jelly, but I haven't studied that method. Paint & bake over the z-p & you should have a much more durable finish.

I've also been a bit disappointed by the durability of Alumahyde II.

People who know much more about it than I do have told me that Norrell's Molyresin is the way to go.
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 5:18:29 AM EDT
Well . . .

I've been using Aluma-Hyde II for the past three years and have been very happy with the results !

For less than $9.00 per can (my $35 C&R has saved me a BUNCH of money ! ! ) I don't think it can be beat.

I de-grease, warm up the parts in the over, warm up the can of A-H in a bucket of hot water, and then spray.

In the warm summer months I hang the parts in my attic for about a week to help the "cure".

My "steel plate shoot" AK was sprayed with A-H three years ago and it still looks nice -- and believe me -- it gets used HARD ! !

Just my 2 cents . . . . .

Link Posted: 5/19/2005 8:45:46 AM EDT
Any of the spray-and-bake finishes like Gun Kote, Moly-resin, etc. are thermoset paints. Great preparation is a must! The only thing I don't like about it is it will chip after it is cured. And it is toxic as hell when spraying or baking.
With Alumahyde II, it is possible to refinish super quick by spraying and letting it cure. My oven treatment seems to have worked fairly well to cure the epoxy. It isn't near as difficult to use as any of the moly resin paints.
As far as durability, it seems to be holding up fairly well to my cleaning and shooting. Different people have different opinions and luck with some products. If you aren't too happy with Alumahyde, by all means try something else. That is how we learn!
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 9:08:51 AM EDT
I would use MolyResin or GunKote. Why do you just want to finish the receiver? It would probably look best if you refinished the whole rifle so it will all match. Here's a website that I used when refinishing my rifle in MolyResin.... Refinishing - How To
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 9:12:37 AM EDT

Originally Posted By danc46:
Any of the spray-and-bake finishes like Gun Kote, Moly-resin, etc. are thermoset paints. Great preparation is a must! The only thing I don't like about it is it will chip after it is cured. And it is toxic as hell when spraying or baking.



MolyResin doesn't chip. At least none of my applications ever has....it bonds with the metal as it bakes. If you follow the instruction correctly, there is little to no fumes from MolyResin in the oven.
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 9:43:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/19/2005 1:11:30 PM EDT by BLM]
Originally Posted By tapeo1:
I would use MolyResin or GunKote. Why do you just want to finish the receiver? It would probably look best if you refinished the whole rifle so it will all match.


The kit is a bulgy kit that is new demilled kit,I dont really want to refinish something that is in great shape
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 10:15:15 AM EDT

Originally Posted By BLM:
The kit is a bulgy kit that is new demilled kit,I dont really want to refinish something that is in great shelf



The finish that the Bulgarians use on the AK74 isn't all that durable. It will come off with solvents like acetone and brake cleaner. It is your build but if it were me, I'd blast the whole gun and use MolyResin or GunKote. That is just my opinion though.
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 11:52:54 AM EDT

Originally Posted By tapeo1:
MolyResin doesn't chip. At least none of my applications ever has....it bonds with the metal as it bakes. If you follow the instruction correctly, there is little to no fumes from MolyResin in the oven.


It will chip or flake off. The factory K-Kote on Sig-Sauer handguns will chip, some of the big name refinishers in Arizona have their baked on finish flake, and I have had it chip on guns I have done. Preparation was vapor honed metal, extensive degreasing, heated metal before application with an air brush. Baked in the kitchen oven at the correct temperature and time. It still chipped a few months later. The product used was Gun Kote from Brownells.
The best way to use the molyresin finishes is over a parkerized finish. It has MAGNIFICENT adhesion to the metal that way.
But it all depends on what a person wants and how much trouble they want to go too.
Alumahyde II works good for me!
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 12:19:41 PM EDT
Just curious, did you use GunKote with an airbrush or the stuff in the spray can? MolyResin can be applied over park but it's not necessary. The manufacturer says to apply over bare metal for best results. Either way it works well. Does Alumahyde II hold up to harsh solvents like acetone and brake cleaner? Again, I've never had any problems with MolyResin chipping or flaking unlike some of the orginal factory finishes I've seen. Just my opinion though.
Link Posted: 5/19/2005 4:45:32 PM EDT
I have used trichlor on the Alumahyde and haven't seen a problem doing so. I have plastic grips on my AKs so I try not to get it near those.
The Gun Kote I used was with an air brush.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 5:35:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/20/2005 5:38:43 AM EDT by byg]


S­orry DBL post
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 5:36:33 AM EDT
I did a makarov in moly resin sandblasted to bare metal, cleaned, the whole nine yards....Looked great, but I dont think its that durable scratches way to easy.Maybe parking it first would of helped
but I wont use it again...I use alumin-hyde2 on my Ak builds and has worked out great... Oh yea the moly resin was the spray can from Brownells that might make a difference too
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 9:04:30 AM EDT
That's not Molyresin, it's Teflon-Moly. Different product.
Link Posted: 5/20/2005 1:51:59 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/22/2005 9:32:02 AM EDT
Yea, you are right greentimber my bad didnt give it much thought.I always heard the norrells was good stuff but havent used it....
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