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10/20/2017 1:01:18 AM
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/5/2005 5:46:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/5/2005 5:46:41 PM EDT by MichMan1]
was thinking that the way the AK was originally built was to precisely align and drill the rear
two lower trunnion holes, match up the receiver, then rivet the rear two holes, and then the front
four holes are drilled directly into the receiver and trunnion at the same time (to the bbl).
Then those four are riveted.
What is the down side of simply keeping the bbl in the trunnion, grinding the front 4 rivets flush,
remove the rear two rivets, fit the receiver correctly, install the new rear two in the receiver, then just
drill new rivet/trunnion holes for the front four? They could be drilled in a bit different area, or
even where the old rivets used to be. Any thoughts?
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 6:00:21 PM EDT
'cause you'll have the other end of your rivet in the barrel, which isn't a good thing
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 6:24:46 PM EDT
AFAIK, that IS what people do when they "screw build" Drill, Tap, Screw, Shoot.
Link Posted: 8/5/2005 6:50:37 PM EDT
You can do that. I did it that way on my first build. It is not, however, how the factory did it. If you decide to remove the barrel, you will be able to see that the rivets were installed before the barrel was inserted in the trunnion. You can tell because the internal side of the rivet is crushed flat. If they were put in after the barrel, the internal side would be round, like the barrel. Also, pulling the barrel is not as big a deal as it seems. It is actually easier, IMO, than trying to drill the trunnion without going too far and perforating the barrel. All you need to make it easy is a punch (or 1/4 bolt), hammer, cheap 2 jaw puller, a length of all thread rod and some antiseize. Total investment of less than $25.
Link Posted: 8/6/2005 3:30:17 AM EDT
why ? cause there is a good chance you will be posting either "i drilled into my barrel" or
"broke a tap threading my trunion" how do i fix it...
Do your self a favor and remove the barrel from the trunion ,,, then remove the rivets ot tap for screws...
Yea i know alot of you guys were sucessfull doing it with out removing the barrel but
look at this and the other forums there are a ton of posts where people did break a tap, or drill
in their barrel , or wallered the holes out to big trying to drill out the rivets....


Link Posted: 8/7/2005 1:48:05 PM EDT
Just weld the front part.
Link Posted: 8/8/2005 7:40:34 AM EDT
"then just drill new rivet/trunnion holes for the front four? They could be drilled in a bit different area,"




Originally Posted By patm41:
why ? cause there is a good chance you will be posting either "i drilled into my barrel" or
"broke a tap threading my trunion" how do i fix it...
Do your self a favor and remove the barrel from the trunion ,,, then remove the rivets ot tap for screws...
Yea i know alot of you guys were sucessfull doing it with out removing the barrel but
look at this and the other forums there are a ton of posts where people did break a tap, or drill
in their barrel , or wallered the holes out to big trying to drill out the rivets....






What Pat said.
Plus you can not change the location of the rivet holes, they have to be in the relieved area of the trunnion.
Link Posted: 8/9/2005 11:01:23 AM EDT
You undoubtedly have noticed that a couple of the holes in the front trunion are counter sunk as well. This is very important for a good rivet build. The new, bent metal shell, or store bought receiver must be counter sunk pressed into these divets in the front trunion. This will give the trunion, new reciever, and rivet a much stronger mechanical bond.

Yours,
One Rusty Nut.
Link Posted: 8/9/2005 3:43:29 PM EDT
How hard is it to get the barrel back in the exact same place?
Link Posted: 8/9/2005 4:12:35 PM EDT
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=74235

another example .... remove the barrel.....
Link Posted: 8/9/2005 6:24:00 PM EDT
I removed my amd 65 barrel with a vice and a grade 8 bolt for the pin, and a brass punch and 25c worth of pennies. No damage done to any parts. Now I need to ante up and buy a reciever and get this thing done, and better yet, buy a rommy kit before their out of them, if they arnt already.

I am planning on reinstalling it with the clamp method, and if that doesnt work, I will BFH it back in as that is what alot of others have done.

Later
Link Posted: 8/11/2005 7:40:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/11/2005 7:44:10 PM EDT by santanatwo]
beating out the barrle usually isn't as hard as trying to tap.. and you get the satisfaction of knowing it's a factory build. Make your own special tools. And make the tools to make the tools.

when I made my divots, I drilled down with a small drill, then took a big drill and ground off a little of the tip, then drill into the pilot hole, and then wiggle it around gentallly to round it. gives perfect divots.

If fact I even press out the barrle when I AM going to do a screw build.

The only time I don't is if the darned thing is stuck.
Link Posted: 8/11/2005 7:42:50 PM EDT
I said that wrong.

Use your tools to make the tools to make ak(s).
Link Posted: 8/11/2005 7:58:21 PM EDT
+1
Like santanatwo said,

and you get the satisfaction of knowing it's a factory build

Good to see you back, D!
I've used the BFH method, vice, and punches on most builds and it seems to work out OK. Not as easy as a press, but definitely doable in most instances!
Link Posted: 8/11/2005 8:37:19 PM EDT
Whats the BFH method?
Link Posted: 8/11/2005 10:53:06 PM EDT
the BIG frickety HAMMER = BFH

*** wonders if the press fairy will give me one, if I leave leave an AK under my pillow?***

Link Posted: 8/12/2005 10:53:19 AM EDT

Originally Posted By santanatwo:
the BIG frickety HAMMER = BFH



Also known as a "SeaBee Engineering Device" or "Chevy Tool".
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 6:45:00 AM EDT
So, can the barrel pin be driven out, or do I need to drill thsi as I would a rivet?

Also, can you be a little more specific about the use of the brass punch, Grade 8 bolt and handful of pennies?
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 10:17:00 AM EDT

Originally Posted By JoeMerchant24:
So, can the barrel pin be driven out, or do I need to drill thsi as I would a rivet?

Also, can you be a little more specific about the use of the brass punch, Grade 8 bolt and handful of pennies?



Drive the barrel pin out with a hammer and a punch. It will come out. It's not rocket science (I mean, it's just like working on a car--use some elbow grease). If you've ever done anything with bearings on cars or bikes, this stuff is easy.

The pennies are to protect the chamber when pressing the barrel out (after the barrel pin is out). A brass punch further protects everything. Anything you can use to grab onto the trunnion and press out the barrel will work. Gear/pulley puller, hydraulic press, I-bar, hammer.... It's just like working on a car and pressing things in and out.
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 11:27:03 AM EDT
Squeeky, thanks for the barrel pin info. I thought I may be able to grind the rivet heads off and punch them out, but that hasn't worked. So I wasn't sure if the barrel pin was easier to remover or not.

I got a bit confused on the bolt/pennies. I thought you were using them to remove the barrel pin. I knew how to use them to remove the barrel.
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 12:14:41 PM EDT

Originally Posted By JoeMerchant24:
Squeeky, thanks for the barrel pin info. I thought I may be able to grind the rivet heads off and punch them out, but that hasn't worked. So I wasn't sure if the barrel pin was easier to remover or not.

I got a bit confused on the bolt/pennies. I thought you were using them to remove the barrel pin. I knew how to use them to remove the barrel.



No problem. A lot of people have been having a time with the barrel pins on the Romys, but I've pressed out 4 or 5 without a problem with a BFH. IMO, the BFH is faster and easier than the other methods and much more effective than a vice. Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 3:25:10 PM EDT
Is there one direction thats better than the other?
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 6:43:14 PM EDT

Originally Posted By MGMan:
Is there one direction thats better than the other?



I don't think so, but I always drive from the non-charging handle side.
Link Posted: 8/16/2005 6:04:40 AM EDT

Originally Posted By squeky:

Originally Posted By MGMan:
Is there one direction thats better than the other?



I don't think so, but I always drive from the non-charging handle side.



Although the pin is not tapered, and will press out in either direction, the preferred method is to press them out left to right, which is the opposite from the way they were pressed in.
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