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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 3/18/2006 8:27:24 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/20/2006 4:50:40 AM EST by killerone]
First things first, thanks to Dale for giving us a new way to make building a little easier

These are the basic tools that are needed to build (hammer, grinders), a drill press makes things a little bit easier 'but is not necessary a hand drill will do.

this is the set I will be using . These are #8 u drives. stanless stell or zinc plated both are fine
the stanless steel has a 80,000 psi rating and the zink steel has a 75,000 psi rating
drill bit I'm using is #27, this drill bit can be had at any hardwware store for about $2or$3 if using a #10 udrive kit you dont need a drill bit
the holes .the holes that are there should be just fine . some peoplle use loctite be is not needed if you perfer us it cant wont hurt

first we start by grinding down the old rivets ad removing the receiver stubs

next grind the old rivets flush with trunion, this counts for the front trunnion as well. the rivet next to the magwell will be riveted

next insert the rear trunion

now drill the holes a little more than 3/8 inch deep

now place the 3/8 odrive in the holes you just drill into the old rivets. If no rivets are present the kit you need will be #10 Udrives

next start hammering in the udrives til they are nice and even with the receiver

insert the front trunnion into the receiver

I use the original receiver stub as a template for the front trunnion

receive all marked and ready for drilling

drill the marks using # 27 drill bit, same goes for the rear trunnion. If there is no rivet there is no need to drill the, # 10 should be just the right sire for the drive

now that are hole are drilled time to put the udrive in place to be hammered ,when your happy with position of the udrives hammer them in

be careful when hammering not to hit the receiver when hammering the udrives

all done now ready for paint

rear trunnion

the trunnion area next the magwell area was riveted

this intire process from start to finish took about 3 hours I if this is your first time using udrives take your time

Link Posted: 3/18/2006 9:13:04 PM EST

Link Posted: 3/19/2006 1:31:57 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/20/2006 1:05:05 AM EST by me223]
Please keep negative comments to yourself. Thanks,

Link Posted: 3/19/2006 4:03:37 AM EST
PLEASE NO GREIF . this just to show people how to do the udrives the rest everybody should know by now . if nothing positive to say please keep comments to yourself
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 4:21:07 AM EST
Thanks killerone!

Did you use loc-tite or some other substance with the screws? I notce a "ring" around them in a couple pics.

No Expert
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 4:36:21 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/20/2006 1:06:43 AM EST by me223]

Then why did you waste your energy replying to this thread? I figured all the naysaying would have been taken care of in my thead on this subject.

Edited to remove quote from patm41's post.
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 6:25:09 AM EST
I couldn't wait to get home from work to reply to this.

Looks great and an Excellent tutorial!

But what happened with the hammer in this pic?!

Link Posted: 3/19/2006 7:09:37 AM EST
So what are those wet rings around the u-drive???Oil or locktite.
I have been putting on red locktite on the drive threads before pressing in....
Anyone else doing the same???
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 4:49:09 PM EST
do you think this can be put in the BIY instead of the old one
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 5:49:08 PM EST

Thank you so much for your help on my build, it was a good time and fun at that. I did not know that there was so much to make 80% AKs come to life.

Ill be hitting you up when I find the ammo, and when I post pics.

Link Posted: 3/19/2006 6:17:56 PM EST
tag for later
Link Posted: 3/19/2006 7:44:17 PM EST
tagged also.....
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 1:14:39 AM EST
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 6:10:34 AM EST
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 8:16:34 AM EST
nice step by step thank you for posting
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 9:51:00 AM EST
Hey Killerone,

Nice thread. Always helps me to see pics when someone is giving instructions on how to do something. I plan on using the U-Drive method at my next build party in Apr. How hard was it to hammer in the #8's?

Thanks again
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 2:20:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 3:11:10 AM EST by me223]


Link Posted: 3/20/2006 2:42:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/20/2006 2:51:34 PM EST by dalesimpson]
Edited because I was violating the number one rule in my signature.
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 3:05:12 PM EST

Originally Posted By patm41:
then you and your forum take responsibility if some one gets hurt by posting a unsafe tutorial

drive screws are meant to hold serial number plates on.. IE light duty industrial applications

as long as they are secure and very snug they will be fine .....no risk of life involved

P.S .....how many people have been killed by these builds??
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 4:12:55 PM EST

Originally Posted By WillysWagon:
Hey Killerone,

Nice thread. Always helps me to see pics when someone is giving instructions on how to do something. I plan on using the U-Drive method at my next build party in Apr. How hard was it to hammer in the #8's?

Thanks again

kinda hard got to wack them suckas good , as you can see if your not to good with a hammer like me and slip this is what happens

if your not to talented with a hammer then , start them in with a hammer then just press them in the rest of the way. use a plate with a divet in it for the head so you dont crush the hell out of it and keeps the heads perfect looking
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 6:26:55 PM EST
Thanks for the info Killerone. Still looks great!!

I've buggered some of my recievers too, just part of the process. My first builds were on non-matching number kits. I'm saving the better kits for when I have a few under my belt.

Link Posted: 3/20/2006 8:08:02 PM EST
Maybe a "DUMB" question, but.....Here goes....

Instead of wacking the U-Drives with a hammer, could you put the whole receiver in a vice, and use that to drive the U-Drive into the receiver/trunion???

Why, or Why not???

Follow up question......

I have both # 8 and # 10 Drive screws....

SHOULD I drill the old rivits completely out, to rule out the small chance that the old rivit will "break free" and rotate???

And, last, but not least, what size screws are people using for the trigger guard???

Thanks for a GREAT Idea.....
Link Posted: 3/20/2006 10:09:09 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/20/2006 10:14:11 PM EST by MrJayJay]
im using #6 machine screws for the trigger guard. i used a vise and two washers with divets to install them. i shot 100 rounds today without any problems (none of the u-drives were wiggling out). tbh i think this style of build might actualy hold up well if done properly. i did 3 u-drives with locktyte and one without (accident but a good way to see how they will react) and none of the 4 moved at all. i might have a neudered ca rifle atm but i did shoot it pritty excessivly before it got to damn cold. also as i understand it the u-drives are only holding aginst the forward movment of the bolt to the front truion so as long as the tensile strength of the u-drives is stronger or equivelent to rivets i dont see exactly whats going to fail in the rifle other then not installing the drive screws properly. also i riveted the rear truion instead of using u-drives (just so in the unlikly event of failure its only going to be the front truion after it sheared off the lower front truion rivets.)

if someone gets a rifle built this way over 10000 rounds please post for all to know :)
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 3:12:42 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 3:12:42 AM EST by me223]
Getting ugly real quick.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 3:14:53 AM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 3:14:53 AM EST by me223]
Getting ugly real quick.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:45:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: 3/21/2006 1:45:33 PM EST by me223]
Problem has been solve.
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