Excuse the Newie question: what is the difference between a double hook and a single hook Tapco G2 FCG?

Look Here?

They're identical except for, well, the extra hook. It all depends on what you're particular receiver is cut for. If you want a double hook in a single hook receiver (although I don't know why) you can easily cut the extra slot in the receiver. Just remember DO NOT cut both slots equally in length as you see in the pic. If you're receiver is slightly out of spec (which I've run into a ton of them) you may end up with a trigger that rotates too far forward and causes problems.












 

Personally, I'd modify the less expensive and much more easily replaced trigger. It's not hard to remove enough metal from the bottom of the hook to allow it to clear the receiver, and if you do screw up the trigger, it's $30 (or less) and 15 minutes to replace it.
Replacing the receiver will take a lot more time and $$$$.

I agree, but I would simply just stick with a single hook trigger. I have a bunch of guns with both single and double and it doesn't make a difference to me. Well excluding my China Dolls, they have a trigger that can't be matched.





 

My thanks to all I now know the difference between a single and double hook. I'll check my MAK 90 before I order the new Tapco trigger (if its a single I'll simply order a single hook trigger, I'm not about to grind on a milled receiver).

I see on the TAPCO the rear of the trigger has a lot more material on the trigger does anyone really grind it off the extra material?

The only downside which others like about the G2 is the 4lb trigger personally I like triggers which are 6-8 lb but that's me.

MAKs use double hook triggers.

It's not the rear that is removed, it is the front where left hook is.  The rear portion is what engages the safety tab on the selector.

Replaced my Mak 90 with the Tapco Double Hook, got the plate to replace the shepard's hook along with it.

Easy install and a much nicer trigger than stock.  Took me a bit to figure out that you can't rotate the safety up to remove it on the Maks, so all the instructions I was reading were of no help.

Nope, on the MAKs you must remove the trigger group before the safety can be rotated up and removed.  I actually like that feature better since it doesn't rely on the top cover to secure the selector lever.  When you install the Tapco group this changes and the only thing that keeps the lever from rotating up is the cover.

One other thing that the instructions are wrong about is how you should deal with the retaining wire.  To properly use the retaining wire as designed it doesn't have to be removed.  I wrote some instructions on another thread a little while back, that greatly simplifies the task of removing the FCG pins.  Most instructions you read online or in print make it out to be a nightmare, but that is because they simply do it wrong.  Oh well.

I'm surprised that you found the Tapco to be a great improvement over the original Chinese FCG.  The Chicoms are generally regarded as one of the best AK triggers available.  I didn't find the Tapco to be bad but I would still rank the Chicoms as better, plus they are milled forged steel as opposed to the cast Tapcos.

MUCH nicer? I got six Chinese AK's and 1 WASR and the trigger pull is about the same.

Do you have a link to the instructions you wrote on which greatly simplifies the task of removing the FCG pins?

Sure, & I got a 4 cyl Chevette that's just as nice as a Z06 Corvette, & just as fast too. LOL.  GARY  N4KVE

Here ya go.

Read through that thread and it should explain how all of the other "instructions" you're apt to read are WRONG.  I gave instructions for two different types of retaining wires commonly found on Chinese AKs.

If by chance you have a Bulgarian style wire (not likely in a Chicom but never say never when dealing with AKs) I gave my ideas about dealing with them HERE.

I thought about writing a thread worthy of a sticky on this subject but it doesn't seem that the mods here are too keen on creating stickies and I don't feel it would be worth the time just for it to get buried two days later as a regular thread.  Plus, I don't have a Bulgarian wire to play with and test my ideas on.  If I did I might right a sticky for some other fourms that are more receptive to things of that nature.  After reading countless posts and threads about how difficult the wires are to use, and finding countless examples of bad instructions for them I really think it could be useful to have a sticky to point newcomers to.  Oh well, unless someone wants to spend the 42 cents to mail me an old unused Bulgarian style retaining wire I don't guess I'll ever know.

Thank you Imaposer2 :-)

Nada problem.  I hope you find it useful.  If you just do it the way they were designed, and like I tried to explain it really shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to have the FCG out and a couple more to put it back in.  The hardest part for me is getting the hammer spring up behind the hammer's "ears" and secured so it won't slip off and puncture a finger.  The retaining wire and pins are cake.