Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Site Notices
Posted: 2/20/2007 2:39:58 PM EST
Im about ready to spotweld on the rails of an AK-builder econo flat, and I have a couple of questions.

Do I need to dremel/file the ejector on the AK-builder rails? Or any part of the rails for that matter?

Any advice/how-to's on spotwelding? I got the lower tong from AK-builder as well. How long should I clamp it down for?

Im gonna go grind down my top rails to fit and get my front trunnion in now.
Link Posted: 2/20/2007 2:59:02 PM EST
height=8
Originally Posted By 1BMF:
Im about ready to spotweld on the rails of an AK-builder econo flat, and I have a couple of questions.

Do I need to dremel/file the ejector on the AK-builder rails? Or any part of the rails for that matter?

Any advice/how-to's on spotwelding? I got the lower tong from AK-builder as well. How long should I clamp it down for?

Im gonna go grind down my top rails to fit and get my front trunnion in now.


I had to file my ejector just a tad for clearence. I waited to do that untill I had the rails welded in, to see how much I needed.

How long to clam it down? I had read every tutorial I could find. I think they all said count to three. Well, then it depends how fast you count doesn't it? My "three count" was a tad too fast. I had best results counting to four. Idealy, I suppose one could find a piece of scrap reciever, and practice. But if not, try counting like if you were trying to count out seconds, like one onethousand, two onethousand three onethousand. You'll get the feel of it. And watch close at the contact points, youll get an eye for it too. It's not rocket science, though I was worried like it was, the first time I tried it. Also I think it makes a difference as to the contour of the tips of the tongs. I'm still new at this, so have no idea whats correct. But I flattened mine out just a hair to try to make a larger bonding area.

The hardest part for me was getting the darn things inside the reciever where I wanted them. (I made my own lower tong, so it hit and miss, trial by experement.) Presumably it will go easier for you as you bought the tongs ready altered for the job.

Good luck, and hope this helps. Oh, and if I were you, I wouldn't take any of my advice untill you hear from the more experienced guys, and find out how wrong I might be. I've only done this twice!

PCM
Link Posted: 2/20/2007 4:11:25 PM EST
I'd like to suggest being really carefull when spot welding near the ejector, I was in a hurry and let one of the electrodes on my welder make contact with the ejector and blew the tip off, I built it back up with a TIG so it wasn't that big of a deal just a waste of time
Link Posted: 2/20/2007 7:02:51 PM EST

Originally Posted By pyroclayman:

Originally Posted By 1BMF:
Im about ready to spotweld on the rails of an AK-builder econo flat, and I have a couple of questions.

Do I need to dremel/file the ejector on the AK-builder rails? Or any part of the rails for that matter?

Any advice/how-to's on spotwelding? I got the lower tong from AK-builder as well. How long should I clamp it down for?

Im gonna go grind down my top rails to fit and get my front trunnion in now.


I had to file my ejector just a tad for clearence. I waited to do that untill I had the rails welded in, to see how much I needed.

How long to clam it down? I had read every tutorial I could find. I think they all said count to three. Well, then it depends how fast you count doesn't it? My "three count" was a tad too fast. I had best results counting to four. Idealy, I suppose one could find a piece of scrap reciever, and practice. But if not, try counting like if you were trying to count out seconds, like one onethousand, two onethousand three onethousand. You'll get the feel of it. And watch close at the contact points, youll get an eye for it too. It's not rocket science, though I was worried like it was, the first time I tried it. Also I think it makes a difference as to the contour of the tips of the tongs. I'm still new at this, so have no idea whats correct. But I flattened mine out just a hair to try to make a larger bonding area.

The hardest part for me was getting the darn things inside the reciever where I wanted them. (I made my own lower tong, so it hit and miss, trial by experement.) Presumably it will go easier for you as you bought the tongs ready altered for the job.

Good luck, and hope this helps. Oh, and if I were you, I wouldn't take any of my advice untill you hear from the more experienced guys, and find out how wrong I might be. I've only done this twice!

PCM



Thanks, ive seen some good builders do it in person, but that was a year or two ago.

I got alot done today, and WOW these flats are awesome! Exponentially better than tapco flats.

The only more demill I need to do is get the rivets out of the rear trunnion.

Tommorrow im going to enlarge the holes for the center support, FCG and drill the holes for the trunnions. Heat treat the holes and rails, and hopefully get them welded in.

Then thursday or friday rivet it together and pop the barrel back in.



LOL, my roommates must wonder WTF I do all day in my room with all this noise.
Link Posted: 2/23/2007 11:39:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/23/2007 11:40:15 PM EST by twistedneck]

Originally Posted By Crash76:
I'd like to suggest being really carefull when spot welding near the ejector, I was in a hurry and let one of the electrodes on my welder make contact with the ejector and blew the tip off, I built it back up with a TIG so it wasn't that big of a deal just a waste of time


NO way! i've never even thought of that.. thanks for tellin us.

Biggest lessons for spot welding for me, clean part, no oils.. lightly sand the weld tips clean after every weld (yes every one), tips aligned with 2mm of sheet metal thickness, and make sure the tongs are metal to metal without any sheet metal at all, that way you get good compression on the spot weld.
Top Top