Hi all, Im about to silver solder my muzzle brake to an slr105a1 for the upcoming move to ny. My question is, by permanently attaching it this way ruin the barrel from becoming to hot? how hot should I heat the barrel, till it is slightly dull red? Lastly should I remove the handguards beforehand. If anyone has any experience with this please tune in. thanks

Moving from here to NY

If you use silver solder paste along with MAPP gas you won't overheat your barrel.  Though it's not required I normally wrap a wet towel around the barrel a few inches back to help localize the area I am heating.  I would definitely remove both of the handguards.

I can't remember what shade of red it should be heated to technically, but dull red should be fine.

Thanks for the replies. Im moving because of a career move. I love vegas but love dollars even more! Also thanks for great advice Seth. I just hope I don't screw this up as im not the most mechanically inclined person.

dont forget to lop off the bayo lugs

About cutting off the bayo lugs. If you solder a 74 style brake on a regular akm, you can not put a bayo on. Would you still have to cut off lugs. Thanks

You do not need to heat the barrel to a dull red.  Get a low temp silver solder. Use the right flux.  Calgon makes a heat sink paste that you can get at a welding or plumbing supply store.  what you are doing is sweating the brake on.  Apply flux to the barrel and heat.  Generally when the flux bubbles you are hot enough. Touch the end of the solder wire to the object being heated . Don't melt it with the torch.  The metal should be hot enough to melt the solder. If not, apply some more heat.  Take an acid brush and wipe off the excess solder. If done properly, you should have a silver coating to the barrel.
Now do the same with the brake if you can reach inside the threaded portion.  Next, install the brake.  Apply flux and then heat.  You can sometimes see the parts setting into place as the solder melts.  If needed apply more solder.  If you do it right the solder will be wicked up into the joint between the barrel and the brake by capillary action.  Wipe off any excess solder with the brush.
BTW, apply graphite to anything you don't want the solder to adhere to. A soft lead pencil works good for this.
What you have done is called tinning.  After solder is applied to both parts and the excess wiped off, you clamp them together and apply heat and flux.  This will make a very strong joint.  As a matter of fact, I silver soldered a reinforcement plate on my Tantal.  At the time I didn't have a spot welder so I used solder.  Worked great.  Oh, and make sure you rinse the joint with cold water after the barrel cools.  This will rinse off any remaining flux. Flux can be corrosive.
Hope this helps.  Oh, I would never heat a barrel red-hot.  That's a good way to ruin it.  Also, a propane torch will work for applying heat.

Quoted: About cutting off the bayo lugs. If you solder a 74 style brake on a regular akm, you can not put a bayo on. Would you still have to cut off lugs. Thanks

Yes, you will need to trim the ears off with a dremel, not the whole lug. So you can keep a cleaning rod in. It should take about 5 minutes, its no that much metal, just enough so it wont lock into places.

Quoted: Also, a propane torch will work for applying heat.

I am not up on NY law, but if it follows the old AWB, then I believe the above partial quote is not entirely correct.

The old AWB law required 1100 degree silver solder to be compliant with the law.  A propane torch will not be to task for this purpose.  I had to use MAAP gas when I "permanantly" attached my muzzle device during the Federal ban, and even MAAP was barely up to task.

Quoted: Quoted: About cutting off the bayo lugs. If you solder a 74 style brake on a regular akm, you can not put a bayo on. Would you still have to cut off lugs. Thanks Yes, you will need to trim the ears off with a dremel, not the whole lug. So you can keep a cleaning rod in. It should take about 5 minutes, its no that much metal, just enough so it wont lock into places.

I'm not sure about NY law, but the old Federal law said "Ability to accept a detachable bayonet". So if you can't attach a bayo to a regular AKM with a perm 74 style break, you would'nt need to remove the lug..

Just my opinion... I never thought silver solder  is a good way for a permanently attached muzzle-brake.  Drill-n-tap is the way to go if worry about the muzzle-brake coming off.  Any local smith can do it for couple bucks... and you'll never worry about it popping off.


~rc

The muzzle is threaded, so it shouldn't come off with silver solder. But after doing more research I might just use the blind pin technique and silver solder over the hole. Less hassle this way.

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: About cutting off the bayo lugs. If you solder a 74 style brake on a regular akm, you can not put a bayo on. Would you still have to cut off lugs. Thanks Yes, you will need to trim the ears off with a dremel, not the whole lug. So you can keep a cleaning rod in. It should take about 5 minutes, its no that much metal, just enough so it wont lock into places. I'm not sure about NY law, but the old Federal law said "Ability to accept a detachable bayonet". So if you can't attach a bayo to a regular AKM with a perm 74 style break, you would'nt need to remove the lug..

hey now..this is a good idea...