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Page AK-47 » SKS
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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 11/14/2003 9:10:43 AM EDT
Hello,
I just did one of the biggest crainial flatuations of recent years. I had a regular norinco sks and a sported. I cleaned them both at the same time. I swapped bolts without paying attention, and it seems that they are indeed diferent. I had never known that and the numerous times I cleaned them before I guess I never swapped them out. But now my sporter wont cycle through the clip. The bolt looks too big to fit an ak mag. Here is the problem, I sold the other sks this past weekend, lol.
Does anyone know for sure the differences in the 2 bolts? Does anyone own 1 of each that they would be willing to take pics of and email to me? Or would anyone send me close-up pics of a sporter bolt so I could compare?
Thanks for the time

Don
Centurion@clanbaa.com or
bjarnklo@hotmail.com
Link Posted: 11/14/2003 12:59:49 PM EDT
This may not be possible, but the simple answer would be to contact the buyer, explain what happened, and tell him you want to return the correct parts for his rifle. I would think he would be most appreciative. A far better solution than creative reengineering.
Link Posted: 11/14/2003 7:00:38 PM EDT
I tried but it seems he gave me a bogus phone number.
Link Posted: 11/15/2003 2:19:56 AM EDT
Sounds like your screwed, the bottom of the bolt on the D model is machined down to work with the AK mags. I would guess that the buyer of your sold rifle will have some problems too and may try to contact you if he has any information. I would think he would be getting bolt over rides on his rifle. You could probably have a standard rifle bolt machined down to work if you could find a sample or specs to go by.
Link Posted: 11/16/2003 8:00:30 AM EDT
The SKS-M bolt is machined in three places.

1. On the right side of the bolt (looking at it from the back), the "lip" on the bottom of the bolt is milled even with the depth of the groove right above it.

2. On the left side of the bolt, the lip is also ground off -- but take care NOT to grind it too much. The left side also has a channel for the "ejector" -- the pice of the receiver that kicks the empty out during recoil. You don't want to take that much material off. Basically, looking at the bolt from the bottom, the two sides whould be even.

3. On the bottom of the bolt, some material is removed near the rear. This is difficult to describe, but its right where the "back" of an AK mag sits, and its to allow the bolt to "tilt down" into battery whithout impacting the back of the AK mag or having problems with the shells in a fully loaded mag. This last machining operation will be the most difficult for you to duplicate.

With any luck, there's a gunsmith in your area who could do it. Best bet would be to get ahold of another "sporter" bolt and bring that, and your "regular" bolt to a machinist and ask him to duplicate.



Link Posted: 11/17/2003 2:42:07 PM EDT
Check sksman.com He stocks what you are looking for. He is a bit pricey though.
Link Posted: 11/18/2003 10:26:22 AM EDT
All I can say is you guys are awesome! Thanks for the help.
The only part I am having trouble visulising is "
3. On the bottom of the bolt, some material is removed near the rear. This is difficult to describe, but its right where the "back" of an AK mag sits, and its to allow the bolt to "tilt down" into battery whithout impacting the back of the AK mag or having problems with the shells in a fully loaded mag. This last machining operation will be the most difficult for you to duplicate.
"
Before I spend $70.00 Ill try and ruin the one I have with my dremel tool..lol
Thanks again everyone.


Don

Never forget the ones who paid the ulimate sacrifice for You and Me. My heart goes out to their families.
retired SGT from the 3rd of the 75th.

http://www.militarycity.com/valor/honor.html


Link Posted: 11/18/2003 6:25:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/18/2003 6:28:28 PM EDT by GonzoAR15-1]
I pulled out my sporter and I think I can give you some additional info here.

I mispoke in my original post. Basically there's about a milemeter removed from the entire lower surface of the bolt from under the bolt face all the way back to a point that lines up with where the little groves on the side "flare" out even with the bolt.

I hope that makes sense.

DO NOT REMOVE ANY MATERIAL FROM THE BOLT FACE ITSELF, or FROM THE SLIGHTLY ANGLED "BEVEL" ON THE BACK OF THE BOLT UNDER THE FIRING PIN OR YOU'LL RUIN THE HEADSPACING ON THE RIFLE AND PROBABLY KILL YOURSELF NEXT TIME YOU FIRE IT.

I still would suggest having a smith do the mods to your bolt.

EDITED TO ADD:

You may want to try and do just the sides, and not do anything to the bottom and see if it works/cycles with a mag in the rifle.

You may have to "short load" your mags by one round, but at least you won't mess up the bolt.
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