Now that I’m walking on the dark side, I am experiencing a few problems with my MAK-90 922(r) conversion.

I managed to screw things up (I have a real talent for that) with the shepherds crook; a hammer spring coil got between the crook and the receiver side.  The result (?) was a trigger that failed to reset without help.  So, I says to myself, “Self, what’s all this about a retaining plate?”

The problem with a retaining plate, as I see it, lies with my particular style of safety lever:  there is a bump on the bottom portion of the safety lever pin that is so large that it will not clear the disconnector.  I assume this is made to prevent the safety lever from removal by accident because the trigger group must be removed prior to removing the safety, then the hammer..  Reversing the process, I must install the hammer, then the safety (with L crook), then the trigger group.

But, with a retaining plate, I must install the hammer group, then the trigger group, then the safety.  Should I:

-Machine part of the safety lever to allow removal of the safety before removing the trigger group (not preferred)?
-Buy a new safety?
-Or, is it something I overlooked?

Sometimes you have to force them a little bit but it should clear. The bump is the safety , you take any off it
may not work if it's the part that stops the rear of the trigger from coming up. At least that is what I am picturing
you have said. Put the crook back in, it keeps the pins from rattling and spinning, the plate may not.

I dremeled off half of the safety lever that was engaging the disconnector in my MAK-90 to work around that issue.  Just be sure to leave enough there (and at full length) to engage the trigger.

You could upgrade to a set of retainer clip pins that fit your Fire Control Pins.

They look like cotter pins.  Just take your fire control pins in and they can match a set to your grooves in the fire control pins.

Cost you about .20 cents each at a hardware store.

Makes it easy to strip down if you use hemostats or needle nose pliers.

Works on any AK & cheap to keep several spares (just in case).

BIGGER_HAMMER

um WHY did u not post this before i took mine apart? lol WARNING  SLR 95 CROOKS ARE AN EXTRA SPECIAL PAIN IN THE ASS

I had to file the safety a little, but no problem.

Why dont you just install the shepherd crook correctly and call it good?

Good question.  I have done so, but the only way I have found to do that effectively is to pull out the trigger group, the safety, and the hammer,  then install (in order) the crook, the hammer, the safety, and the trigger group.

The problem is, once a hammer spring coil gets over the crook (i.e., between the crook and the receiver wall), the dimensions do not allow for the hammer spring to be pushed over the crook and back into position; believe me, I have tried using, with the MAK in a vise, individually and in combination, small screwdrivers, pliers, hemostats, and small chopsticks.  This may be one of those three-hand jobs.  I don't think this is a very good setup and would like to avoid having to completely pull out these parts and reinstall them every time I remove a part.

NOTE:  It seems that if I pull out the "L" crook to disassemble the trigger, a hammer coil slips over the crook every time.