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Posted: 6/14/2009 7:32:24 AM EST
im looking into getting one, is there anything i need to know: flaws, pros, cons, alternitives, ect...............
thanks in advance
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 7:51:40 AM EST
I have one that I've never bothered trying to adjust. I suppose if I took the time to figure it out it might make a difference, but personally in an AK I would not spend the extra money. Just get a G2 and call it good.

Now in a scoped AR, on the other hand, the Jewel trigger was the best money I ever spent.

Link Posted: 6/14/2009 12:43:32 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/14/2009 12:45:04 PM EST by Clandestine]
Originally Posted By kalashnikopy47:
im looking into getting one, is there anything i need to know: flaws, pros, cons, alternitives, ect...............
thanks in advance


I'm glad to help. I'm a full time gunsmith that specializes in AK's, so I have much experience installing all kinds of AK Triggers, especially the RSA triggers.

There are 4 popular trigger systems:
Tapco (Nice but not great unless polished properly, better with a 25% reduced spring kit. Tapcos have a light, but LOOOOONG pull)
K-Var/Arsenal (Crap, dont even consider them. They break and have VERY ROUGH surfaces)
RSA (Easiest Adjustable system to Install, Light pull, Strong materials, Reliable if installed properly, short pull)
Jard (lightest of all but most need LOTS of stoning to not cause the action to hang up, I don't recomend them)

I recomend getting the RSA trigger or Tapco, AND a RSA retainer plate as well. You'll know how valuable these are if you try to reuse the factory wire pin retainer (shepherds crook)

If you decide on the RSA:

My recommendations are where RSA has stoned take some jewelers rouge and a felt disk on a dremel and polish the parts they stoned. Don't round anything just polish where the parts are stoned.

Second tip is to completely disassemble the trigger kit, and take out all of the adjustment screws (Remember where they go). You want to degrease all of the parts and adjustment screws with acetone, gun scrubber or brake cleaner.

Third tip is to use red loctite on the adjustment screws. Don't use the green sleeve retaining liquid they supply. The red is stronger.

Fourth Tip is do not oil or grease anything until 3 days after you have adjusted the trigger. You want to give the loctite time to setup. You want to adjust the trigger for minimal creep, takeup, and overtravel. You want to have a little hammer/sear engagement as allowable so there is no creep. The instructions included with the trigger do a great job of explaining how to adjust things.

Last, the safety shouldn't be fit until you have a chance to test fire the weapon. If you fit the safety to the trigger kit and have hammer follow or need to make adjustments to the set screws your safety engagement will be sloppy and wont hold. Run 100 rounds thru the gun before fitting the safety. When fitting the safety the instructions tell you to cut the engagement tab. Do this slow with a file. removing too much requires you to weld re-weld the tab or replace the safety.

If you have any questions once getting the kit feel free to message me and Ill be glad to help further.

Take Care.

Chad
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 1:37:34 PM EST
Originally Posted By Clandestine:
Originally Posted By kalashnikopy47:
im looking into getting one, is there anything i need to know: flaws, pros, cons, alternitives, ect...............
thanks in advance


I'm glad to help. I'm a full time gunsmith that specializes in AK's, so I have much experience installing all kinds of AK Triggers, especially the RSA triggers.

There are 4 popular trigger systems:
Tapco (Nice but not great unless polished properly, better with a 25% reduced spring kit. Tapcos have a light, but LOOOOONG pull)
K-Var/Arsenal (Crap, dont even consider them. They break and have VERY ROUGH surfaces)
RSA (Easiest Adjustable system to Install, Light pull, Strong materials, Reliable if installed properly, short pull)
Jard (lightest of all but most need LOTS of stoning to not cause the action to hang up, I don't recomend them)

I recomend getting the RSA trigger or Tapco, AND a RSA retainer plate as well. You'll know how valuable these are if you try to reuse the factory wire pin retainer (shepherds crook)

If you decide on the RSA:

My recommendations are where RSA has stoned take some jewelers rouge and a felt disk on a dremel and polish the parts they stoned. Don't round anything just polish where the parts are stoned.

Second tip is to completely disassemble the trigger kit, and take out all of the adjustment screws (Remember where they go). You want to degrease all of the parts and adjustment screws with acetone, gun scrubber or brake cleaner.

Third tip is to use red loctite on the adjustment screws. Don't use the green sleeve retaining liquid they supply. The red is stronger.

Fourth Tip is do not oil or grease anything until 3 days after you have adjusted the trigger. You want to give the loctite time to setup. You want to adjust the trigger for minimal creep, takeup, and overtravel. You want to have a little hammer/sear engagement as allowable so there is no creep. The instructions included with the trigger do a great job of explaining how to adjust things.

Last, the safety shouldn't be fit until you have a chance to test fire the weapon. If you fit the safety to the trigger kit and have hammer follow or need to make adjustments to the set screws your safety engagement will be sloppy and wont hold. Run 100 rounds thru the gun before fitting the safety. When fitting the safety the instructions tell you to cut the engagement tab. Do this slow with a file. removing too much requires you to weld re-weld the tab or replace the safety.

If you have any questions once getting the kit feel free to message me and Ill be glad to help further.

Take Care.

Chad


THANKS a lot. i will definitely consult this once i get it.
good shooting,
JWH
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 4:40:50 PM EST
Originally Posted By kalashnikopy47:
Originally Posted By Clandestine:
Originally Posted By kalashnikopy47:
im looking into getting one, is there anything i need to know: flaws, pros, cons, alternitives, ect...............
thanks in advance


I'm glad to help. I'm a full time gunsmith that specializes in AK's, so I have much experience installing all kinds of AK Triggers, especially the RSA triggers.

There are 4 popular trigger systems:
Tapco (Nice but not great unless polished properly, better with a 25% reduced spring kit. Tapcos have a light, but LOOOOONG pull)
K-Var/Arsenal (Crap, dont even consider them. They break and have VERY ROUGH surfaces)
RSA (Easiest Adjustable system to Install, Light pull, Strong materials, Reliable if installed properly, short pull)
Jard (lightest of all but most need LOTS of stoning to not cause the action to hang up, I don't recomend them)

I recomend getting the RSA trigger or Tapco, AND a RSA retainer plate as well. You'll know how valuable these are if you try to reuse the factory wire pin retainer (shepherds crook)

If you decide on the RSA:

My recommendations are where RSA has stoned take some jewelers rouge and a felt disk on a dremel and polish the parts they stoned. Don't round anything just polish where the parts are stoned.

Second tip is to completely disassemble the trigger kit, and take out all of the adjustment screws (Remember where they go). You want to degrease all of the parts and adjustment screws with acetone, gun scrubber or brake cleaner.

Third tip is to use red loctite on the adjustment screws. Don't use the green sleeve retaining liquid they supply. The red is stronger.

Fourth Tip is do not oil or grease anything until 3 days after you have adjusted the trigger. You want to give the loctite time to setup. You want to adjust the trigger for minimal creep, takeup, and overtravel. You want to have a little hammer/sear engagement as allowable so there is no creep. The instructions included with the trigger do a great job of explaining how to adjust things.

Last, the safety shouldn't be fit until you have a chance to test fire the weapon. If you fit the safety to the trigger kit and have hammer follow or need to make adjustments to the set screws your safety engagement will be sloppy and wont hold. Run 100 rounds thru the gun before fitting the safety. When fitting the safety the instructions tell you to cut the engagement tab. Do this slow with a file. removing too much requires you to weld re-weld the tab or replace the safety.

If you have any questions once getting the kit feel free to message me and Ill be glad to help further.

Take Care.

Chad


THANKS a lot. i will definitely consult this once i get it.
good shooting,
JWH




Glad to help. Take care friend.

Chad
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 6:54:28 PM EST
Hey thanks Chad I just got one of these for my M95 project and look forward to using your advice on this trigger.
Link Posted: 6/14/2009 7:20:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/14/2009 7:22:27 PM EST by Clandestine]
Originally Posted By BB:
Hey thanks Chad I just got one of these for my M95 project and look forward to using your advice on this trigger.


Anytime

When I get more time im going to do a full Tapco and RSA tweaking tutorial with illustrations.

Link Posted: 6/15/2009 2:25:07 PM EST
When I get more time im going to do a full Tapco and RSA tweaking tutorial with illustrations.


That would be nice.
And thank you for posted what you did above.
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 2:49:36 PM EST
Originally Posted By coils:
When I get more time im going to do a full Tapco and RSA tweaking tutorial with illustrations.


That would be nice.
And thank you for posted what you did above.


+1
Link Posted: 6/15/2009 10:47:27 PM EST
Originally Posted By Clandestine:
Originally Posted By BB:
Hey thanks Chad I just got one of these for my M95 project and look forward to using your advice on this trigger.


Anytime

When I get more time im going to do a full Tapco and RSA tweaking tutorial with illustrations.



Please do the RSA tutorial. I have the RSA set. But, I have been procrastinating installing it. It seems a bit intimidating for a non-gunsmith. I would install it tonight if I had your tutorial. Thanks in advance.
Link Posted: 6/16/2009 2:51:00 AM EST
I put an RSA in a Romanian. It's infinetly adjustable. Mine was set just short of a single stage. Very nice.
Link Posted: 6/16/2009 3:03:50 AM EST
I have an RSA in my PSL and in my converted Saiga-12

Why put such a light, short reset low overtravel trigger in a shotgun?
Vid
Link Posted: 6/16/2009 10:39:44 AM EST
Originally Posted By Clandestine:
Originally Posted By kalashnikopy47:
im looking into getting one, is there anything i need to know: flaws, pros, cons, alternitives, ect...............
thanks in advance


-snip-


Thank you for that! Lots of info that I'll save for later use.
Link Posted: 6/16/2009 2:41:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/16/2009 2:42:13 PM EST by Speedy]
Does anyone know if there is a difference in RSA trigger groups between 7.62 and 5.45 stamped rifles? I've been considering ordering one from Cope's dist to save $20 off of RSA's price. When I checked RSA's website I saw that they want you to specify which caliber the trigger group is for but Cope's does not...
Link Posted: 6/16/2009 4:38:27 PM EST
Originally Posted By Speedy:
Does anyone know if there is a difference in RSA trigger groups between 7.62 and 5.45 stamped rifles? I've been considering ordering one from Cope's dist to save $20 off of RSA's price. When I checked RSA's website I saw that they want you to specify which caliber the trigger group is for but Cope's does not...


For 7.62x39 , 5.45x39, 7.62x54r, and Saiga 12 Gauge they use the std 7.62x39 trigger system

You need a special Hammer for .223/5.56 guns, and another type of hammer for the .308/7.62 Nato guns.

Link Posted: 6/16/2009 9:47:35 PM EST
Originally Posted By Clandestine:
Originally Posted By Speedy:
Does anyone know if there is a difference in RSA trigger groups between 7.62 and 5.45 stamped rifles? I've been considering ordering one from Cope's dist to save $20 off of RSA's price. When I checked RSA's website I saw that they want you to specify which caliber the trigger group is for but Cope's does not...


For 7.62x39 , 5.45x39, 7.62x54r, and Saiga 12 Gauge they use the std 7.62x39 trigger system

You need a special Hammer for .223/5.56 guns, and another type of hammer for the .308/7.62 Nato guns.



Thanks Clandestine... Sounds like I'm good to go then ordering the standard trigger group from Cope's for my SLR105...

Link Posted: 6/16/2009 10:05:46 PM EST
Originally Posted By Speedy:
Originally Posted By Clandestine:
Originally Posted By Speedy:
Does anyone know if there is a difference in RSA trigger groups between 7.62 and 5.45 stamped rifles? I've been considering ordering one from Cope's dist to save $20 off of RSA's price. When I checked RSA's website I saw that they want you to specify which caliber the trigger group is for but Cope's does not...


For 7.62x39 , 5.45x39, 7.62x54r, and Saiga 12 Gauge they use the std 7.62x39 trigger system

You need a special Hammer for .223/5.56 guns, and another type of hammer for the .308/7.62 Nato guns.



Thanks Clandestine... Sounds like I'm good to go then ordering the standard trigger group from Cope's for my SLR105...



My pleasure. Let me know if you have any trouble, ill be around.
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