Ok folks, I have installed RSA adjustable trigger in my SAR 3 5.56 AK. This is an adjustable trigger. I have not live fired it yet. This is the first time that I've installed a new trigger and/or FCG.

I'm not sure what to look for in the trigger pull that would cause me to adjust it. If I can avoid it, I'd rather not adjust it and mess with the Loctite. The manual looked somewhat complicated, or maybe I'm just being lazy.

Thanks for your help!

Here's the PDF of the instructions.


http://www.redstararms.com/uploads/RSA_trigger.pdf

Just as a FYI, the RSA trigger I received had no Loctite on the screws, the threads were bone dry.  Might want to check them even if you decide not to mess with the settings.  The screws need Loctite or they will walk on you.

 

First of all check your hammer contact on the bolt, and ensure that it's somewhat flat. I seem to remember something about SAR-3's having funky hammers, and the lack of the right ones were causing people trouble a while back. The RSA hammer may be fine though, especially if it said it'll work with a SAR-3. Otherwise adjusting everything isn't too hard. Do the best to follow the instructions, and if it doesn't feel right, just look inside to see what set screw is holding you back and adjust it. The instructions make it look alot harder than it is.

Seriously, take the time to read and understand the instructions.





I've done it, you need to do it.



The directions are complicated, but for safety's sake go through the motions.





 

Thanks for your help guys. I was messing with the trigger last night and I see that the screws do not have any Loctite applied. I'm going to adjust it and then set it. I hope to take it out this weekend to live fire it on some pumpkins!

Ok, so I've read the manual/instructions and I believe that I'd like to set the trigger as a single stage action/pull.

This would seem to be better for rapid fire.  I know that everyone's unique as to their tastes, but what do you guys like in your triggers?  Single vs. Two stage?


Thanks.  

Mine is set for 2-stage, much like my Geiselle 2-stage in my AR.  I learned where the dangerous setting was, and backed off the other way  toward "unreasonable" (the other end of the spectrum) then found a setting in between that was comfortable.  You have to go through that process at the range, when few others are shooting.



The RSA triggers come with that statement that they are not set at all - and that is why you must go through the process of setting it up the way you want it - because you can't assume its set for anything.  You must assume its set for "dangerous" out of the box.



As I mentioned at the top, to do this correctly you pretty much need to establish the top and bottom limits of the settings - then work safely within the range.  You can't really set it at home for what you think is a sweet trigger pull, then go off to the range without a set of allens and a tube of loctite.



The above is just my opinion on how to find the sweet spot when setting up your new RSA triggger.  I stress you must find the unsafe zone to understand where the safe zone is.  Others may have differing opinions.  I am pleased with the settings of my RSA trigger, its stable and safe.

Thanks.  That does help.  Once the right settings are found, I apply the Loctite.  Can I shoot right away after applying it, or does it need time to set?

You'll actually need to apply the loctite while you're going through the process so its set in the threads - you can't just dab some on the screw top when done.  It stays pliable for a long time, and ultimately just stickies up the threads so the screw doesn't rotate out from vibration.
So, start the process by backing out the screws and loctiting them - doesn't take much.
You can shoot right away, I tend to scratch a mark across
things like this when set to show where the final setting was made.
That can visually help if things seem like they're creeping.



IIRC - my RSA came w/loctite already in place.
 

Thanks again.  I hope to try it out this weekend.

Ok, I know this may be taxing by now, but I have need of your assistance yet again.

I was reading the instructions and trying the method for setting a single stage trigger.  The directions are as follows:

Single Stage Trigger Pull:
Adjust set screw (C) so area (F) and area (K) have only 0.030 inch engagement. Then adjust set screw (D) so the face of disconnector (H) clears the
rear edge of the hammer at area (1) when the trigger is pulled. By adjusting the disconnector angle such that it does not contact the hammer when the
trigger is pulled, the second stage is lost. The weight of the single action pull is dependent of the existing hammer-trigger main spring.

Pardon my ignorance, but how would I measure the amount of engagement between these two parts?  Thanks again!

Set the screws up, dry fire until you find one limit - set screws down and dry fire until you find the other limit.  Set somewhere in between - go to range, make 1/4 turn adjustments until you zero in and find a happy place.  Keep track of number of turns from all the way down to all the way up.
Re-verify the settings at the range after you get a feel at home dry firing.
ETA - few have gauges as suggested to use.  Once you start working the set screws, you'll get an understanding what each one does - it'll be fun and rewarding.  Once you get it set, forget about re-adjusting - trust your initial judgment unless it really feels wrong. Score a reference line across the top of the set screws and another on the trigger frame to show where it was finally set - to make sure you know if the screw has moved in the future.
 

Thank you for all your help!

I hope its helpful, kinda hard to describe - and I've been where you are.  You just have to figure out what each screw does and to do that requires testing.



If I can do it, you can too.  I put one in my SGL31, and have been very pleased - the instructions are almost burdensome but you have to tough your way through it.



It will make sense when you get into it, just don't lose a set screw!

Yeah, I was messing with the setting for about 2.5 hours last night.  But, I think that I'm getting the gist of it.

That doesn't sound like an unreasonable time to manipulate those 2 set screws, trying various settings, recording the results, and coming to a zone where you understand how that gizmo works - then coming up with an approximate area where you can consider taking to the range. At the range you'll want to make some minor adjustments back and fourth until you're happy. Just keep track of where you're working from, like 1/2 turn right, another 1/2 turn right, back 1/4 and so on.  Don't make wild adjustments forgetting where you started from.  As long as you're keeping away from the unsafe areas that hopefully you've now come to understand you're good to go.  Unsafe meaning hair trigger dangerous stuff.



It gets faster the second time around.





 

Thanks.  I'll give you a range report once I've set the trigger.

After I set the screw with the Loctite, can I continue to fire the rifle or should I let the Loctite set?

Thanks!

Fire away!  I would.  It takes a week for that stuff to stiffen, its job is to goober up the threads so movement is limited to tool use only.
But just in case - scribe a mark across the set screws and frame if possible and double check.  I'd expect turning those set screws wasn't easy - therefore they aren't going to move easily except under extreme heat and shock, or over a long period of time of continous heat/shock/vibration.
 

I made annotations on paper as to how many half turns I made from the point the screws first (took) seated.  The trigger is great, but then when I attempted to re-install the safety.....


....well, apparently I need to file that down in order for it to fit.  So, the project continues.  :P

Don't file anything yet...  avoid that dremil.



IIRC I had issues too with the safety, and ultimately ended up just going with a retainer plate.  The likelihood is that one of the spings legs of the Shepards hook is not seated in the notch of the pin correctly.  You may have to lift that piece of wire while pushing in the pin, then dropping it in the notch on the pin.  Or not - I don't know exactly, but now you're bringing back some memories here.
Anyone else?  Feel free to chime in here...






 

OK, so after quite a bit of tinkering, and a bit of file work, I got the safety in place!  Yay!  I checked its function for safety and it's all set!  This has been quite the learning experience.  Now I just need to get back to the range and SHOOT IT!!!

p.s.

Thanks Hedonist!

I didn't get any footage of the trial run of my new RSA trigger because the battery in my camera died. I wasn't sure of what to expect after I installed and adjusted it, but I have to say that this trigger is NICE! And by nice, I mean the best trigger on of any AK that I've fired. I really like it and recomend it, especially if you have a SAR 3 that needs to have the correct FCG (hammer in particular).  I'll post a video the as soon as I can make one.  


P.S.

Thanks for your help Hedonist!