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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/6/2006 9:39:07 AM EST
Gonna try some cheap finishing methods (Just wanna find out for myself how good I can make cold blue or cheap paint look). So how about some feedback on the following plan:

Brownells "Steel White" to remove blueing.

Go over whole gun with 320ish grit sandpaper. (The guy at Brownells recommended a surface no finer than 400 grit for Oxpho blue to "take"). Use steel wool and/or light buffing if surface is to rough after sanding.

Clean with break cleaner (anyone ever use carb cleaner?)

Use steel wool to rub in Oxpho. Clean, then rub in more Oxpho...and again and again.

If finish is so awfull I can't stand it. Then:

Back to the blue remover.

If necessary, Buff the whole thing with coarse buffing compound.

Spray paint using one of these methods...

So wadaya think? Comments, suggestions?
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 11:26:13 AM EST
I've never used cold blue, but it couldn't hurt. I'd give it a try, it might turn out better than you think. If not, you're not out much. Just strip it down and spray it as you say. Make sure to post pics if you decide to try it.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 11:32:01 AM EST
Oxpho is one of the best cold blues available. However all cold blues suck. They offer little if any rust protection and rub off easily. If you're poor use something else you can't afford to waste money on cold blue.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 1:44:15 PM EST
Not poor, just cheap

I'm just a guy who has to see for himself. Maybe some would say learn the hard way. More often than not, I do find out the hard way. But by going against the grain and testing the general wisdom of the masses, I sometimes bump into a gem. I fully expect the cold blueing to be unsatisfactory, but I've gotta know for myself Plus I'll have fun doin it.

I've heard similar opinions about the rust protection of parkerizing, but I've got several parked rifles which to my amazement, haven't turned into a pile of rust at the bottom of my safe

Again, I'm just messin around here and gonna see what happens. No dis intended. Your probably right as I've heard the same opinion on cold blueing from many experts.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 2:20:16 PM EST
Dont use carb cleaner as most have a lubricant included.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 3:15:39 PM EST

Link Posted: 1/6/2006 6:09:59 PM EST
To be real cheap, clean with Dawn dish detergent in hot water, dry with hair dryer, spray on BBQ black. Works great.
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 6:13:07 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/6/2006 6:13:28 PM EST by TheRedHorseman]
honestly, a poor mans GunKote rig isnt very expensive. I use a $30 badger internal mix/feed airbrush and a toaster oven for small parts
Link Posted: 1/6/2006 7:59:30 PM EST
You can get aresol cans of GunKote from Brownells and cure it in the oven. I did my Rommy that way and it turned out great, pluss the finish will last.
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 6:06:25 AM EST
Did you guys all sandblast?
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 6:37:41 AM EST
no sandblast for me, I just use brake cleaner and naval jelly prior to applying gunkote
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 8:08:00 AM EST
How long do you leave the naval Jelly on?
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 8:11:47 AM EST
about 10-15 minutes.
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 8:45:28 AM EST
There is no jelly in my naval - may I borrow some of yours?
Link Posted: 1/7/2006 1:46:06 PM EST
degrease- use "greased lightning". also bake all metal parts in an oven for a few hours at around 300 degrees, gets all the oil/grease from the nooks and crannies.

paint with duplicolor 1200 degree ceramic according to dirtections on can.

that is the best, good "cheap" finish there is...
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