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Posted: 1/6/2003 2:08:30 PM EST
This is the Bulgy that Troy assembled for me. I had a slight interference fit problem due to the mounting location of Tantal's scope rail. It is a minor problem that is easily overcome,due to the location of the rear trunions rivet pattern. The scope mounted, but was rubbing ever so slighlty on the top cover.

I milled .010-.015" off the bottom cap on the scope.

You could also make a shim for installing between the scope mounting bracket that would do the same thing. I may do that to give it an additional clearance. The only other problem was the center rivet on the mount needed to be relieved to enable the locking lever to clear.

Other than these two work arounds, it is a very solid hookup and I will be doing the same thing again on my next build. Here is another view of the installed scope.

One last thing, Centerfire Systems has this scope onsale for $179.
Link Posted: 1/6/2003 6:10:18 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/6/2003 6:15:46 PM EST by Tracker]
Hbarski, Great pics! RotDorn mentioned to me in an earlier post about some of the newer scopes having problems clearing the top cover.

This is great information and I like your idea about adding a shim between the scope bracket.

I plan on installing the same scope rail from Tantal and believe it is a must.

BTW, UPS tried to deliver my K-VAR package today, but nobody was home to receive it. I will have my 74 kit tomorrow with extra mags to boot. Ya baby!

I never did hear a range report from the "Flying Kalashnikov brothers". Well some of us are waiting to see how your new 74's performed.



Link Posted: 1/7/2003 1:39:29 AM EST
Nice camera! Great detail!!

Okay, gimme the part number, cost, and source for the scope. I gotta get one of those.

KF
Link Posted: 1/7/2003 2:37:38 AM EST
Link Posted: 1/7/2003 3:23:28 AM EST
They have come down $20 since I ordered....my luck......but the difference will pay for the mount.
Link Posted: 1/7/2003 1:49:51 PM EST
Thanks, hbarski. It looks like I may have to do some revamping on my PO before it goes on my Bulgarian build. It fits fine on my SAR-2. Does anyone even know what is under the cap that needs milled off?
Link Posted: 1/7/2003 4:41:02 PM EST
Well of course, I just had to remove it in order to mill it.....you know how we toolmen work......it is a cap that covers a brass adjustment screw. It is packed with a tar/grease substance and is easy to remove, file and reinstall. The screw is probably used to adjust the recticle. Just unscrew the cap.
Link Posted: 1/8/2003 4:58:10 PM EST
Hbarski, I got my SAR-2 out of the safe this evening and lo and behold, my scope IS hitting after all. I removed the offending cap and took a Q-tip and cleaned out the inside of it so I could get a better look. The threads inside the cap go all the way to the bottom, so I am going to mill mine on the open THREADED end of the cap. I can remove a lot more material that way, as I will not be hindered by the cap's bottom thickness. I measured the height of the exposed brass screw and added a little more for clearance so that the cap will not bottom-out after it is milled. I can take off about 3/32"-1/8" of the cap's threads and still not bottom-out the cap. I shouldn't have any problems putting the scope on my new rifle when it is completed. Thanks again for the "heads up".
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