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Posted: 1/16/2006 8:20:22 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/16/2006 8:22:25 PM EST by sgtstinger]
I really don't want to go through the expense of getting my build parkerized when I'm finished, but I want something that's going to prevent rust, hold up to solvents, and look/last better than a $3 can of Krylon spray paint.

Any suggestions?
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 9:19:43 PM EST
Man, get some Aluma-Hyde II from Brownells. It's the best shit I've ever tried. No blasting, no baking, nothing. And it looks like it's parkerized. You just have to have patience and not touch your parts for a few days or you will get fingerprints on them. It takes forever to cure, but it's damn well worth the result!!!
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 9:35:30 PM EST
gunkote, 1 hour at 325 in the oven and its coated for ever
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 10:50:22 PM EST

Originally Posted By pieceofstink:
Man, get some Aluma-Hyde II from Brownells. It's the best shit I've ever tried. No blasting, no baking, nothing. And it looks like it's parkerized. You just have to have patience and not touch your parts for a few days or you will get fingerprints on them. It takes forever to cure, but it's damn well worth the result!!!



Ditto. Let it set for two weeks and it is good to go. I have cleaned my AK multiple times after refinishing it and have had no problems with the finish. I use klean bore 3in1 and foam bore cleaner. You can get it for about $10 in about any color you want.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 4:33:53 AM EST
I've used Aluma Hyde II and its a weak finish. But its very easy to apply!
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 6:42:00 AM EST
I just ordered the Semi-Gloss black.

I have some real beat up mis-matching C&R's that I'd like to try this on. Guess I'll try on some mags or something first.

-mark
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 12:18:21 PM EST

Originally Posted By TheRedHorseman:
gunkote, 1 hour at 325 in the oven and its coated for ever



+1. Gunkote is the shit.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 1:16:32 PM EST
GunKote after blasting.

Great stuff and so far has proven quite durable on my rifles.

You can even gett fancy and use a cheap airbrush to do a multi-color camo job.

Have fun.

TheOtherChris
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 2:06:28 PM EST
Yup - GunKote - and if you prespray with KPHOS, you don't even need to blast. That stuff actually WORKS, and very well... KPHOS also comes from KG Coatings, and it's dirt cheap.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 2:10:28 PM EST

Originally Posted By Trotsky:
Yup - GunKote - and if you prespray with KPHOS, you don't even need to blast. That stuff actually WORKS, and very well... KPHOS also comes from KG Coatings, and it's dirt cheap.



$115/Gallon is pretty pricy for me....I am working on an alternative :)
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 2:13:24 PM EST
tag
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 2:21:48 PM EST
Say you go over park, it doesn't need to be blasted does it.
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 2:23:11 PM EST
Oh Lord... unless you are in production? You don't need a GALLON of KPHOS... I used 1/2 pint to work on about six rifles :) It's surface prep - not paint :)
Link Posted: 1/18/2006 7:37:40 PM EST
My Dad is in the metal finishing business...Most of these products are so ridiculously overpriced.

K-phos and similar products are referred to as conversion coatings....Its a huge business....average price is about 8-15$ a gallon for the concentrates.

I am cheap though....

BTW you can buy enough manganese and phophoric acid to make 150 gals of park solution for about $15 too.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:34:41 AM EST
I just tried cold bluing on mine. I coarse buffed it then used Brownell's Oxpho. The finish came out wayyy better than I thought it would. Unfortunately, I can't recommend it because the Oxpho refused to take to the top cover or selector at all
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:55:51 AM EST
MolyResin and Jasco Prep & Primer for park.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 9:05:05 AM EST

Originally Posted By Trotsky:
Oh Lord... unless you are in production? You don't need a GALLON of KPHOS... I used 1/2 pint to work on about six rifles :) It's surface prep - not paint :)



true, but naval jelly works extremely well for a fraction of the price
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 9:05:12 AM EST
has anyone tried powdercoating? I have a powdercoating rig and have been thinking about giving it a go. It holds up well to solvents I use brake clean etc on other powdercoated parts without a problem and it holds up to heat pretty well up to 200-300 degrees F so i dont see why it would be a problem.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 9:07:23 AM EST

Originally Posted By awilliams:
has anyone tried powdercoating? I have a powdercoating rig and have been thinking about giving it a go. It holds up well to solvents I use brake clean etc on other powdercoated parts without a problem and it holds up to heat pretty well up to 200-300 degrees F so i dont see why it would be a problem.



the problem with powder coating is that it is awfully thick and cant be used inside the receiver
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 9:10:22 AM EST
yea i could see that being a problem
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 9:43:20 AM EST
i park all my builds and then duracoat them.


i think i've spent a grand total of *MAYBE* $200 on airbrush/compressor, duracoat, and parkerizing solution. so far i've finished 15 different firearms, and will have to spend another 40 bucks or so on duracoat.


given the price, i'd say i'm doing well.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 12:13:09 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/19/2006 12:15:05 PM EST by echap]
Here's a vote for Moly Resin. I did 2 AK's a few years ago and they are holding up great.


Echap
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 1:47:47 PM EST

Originally Posted By awilliams:
has anyone tried powdercoating? I have a powdercoating rig and have been thinking about giving it a go. It holds up well to solvents I use brake clean etc on other powdercoated parts without a problem and it holds up to heat pretty well up to 200-300 degrees F so i dont see why it would be a problem.



my barrel gets way hotter than 300 degrees when I shoot.

I use gunkote over park.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 2:00:23 PM EST

Originally Posted By mutt148:

Originally Posted By awilliams:
has anyone tried powdercoating? I have a powdercoating rig and have been thinking about giving it a go. It holds up well to solvents I use brake clean etc on other powdercoated parts without a problem and it holds up to heat pretty well up to 200-300 degrees F so i dont see why it would be a problem.



my barrel gets way hotter than 300 degrees when I shoot.

I use gunkote over park.



Yep, I think I've seen our Barrels glow and smoke...

Link Posted: 3/18/2006 8:47:01 PM EST
bump...
Link Posted: 3/18/2006 9:43:29 PM EST
which finish most closely matches Bulgarian/Russian black paint (think SLR-105)?
Link Posted: 4/14/2006 1:08:04 AM EST
bump...again...

19 days and counting...
Link Posted: 4/14/2006 2:52:30 AM EST
How about some pics? Would like to see Alumihyde semi-gloss black!
Link Posted: 4/14/2006 4:47:34 PM EST
Duplicolor High Heat 500 or 1200 degree, with ceramic. Pretty durable and oil resistant.
$4.99 a can.
Link Posted: 4/14/2006 6:43:20 PM EST
GunKote! I used the arosol can from Brownells and didn't blast before. Tough stuff and looks great.
Link Posted: 4/14/2006 6:46:16 PM EST
I powder coated an AK, and it was the worst thing I ever did. I made the mistake of getting it inside the receiver. I still need to keep cycling the action to get it all out. I now use duracoat exclusively. Easy to apply, and you don't have to bake it. I have thought about trying gunkoat though.

Kris
Link Posted: 4/15/2006 3:06:59 AM EST
DuraCoat's "combat black" over park. Needless to say, I've been very pleased with their products.

Link Posted: 4/15/2006 11:18:05 AM EST
Guncoat! Just refinished my PSL today and it looks awesome.
Link Posted: 4/16/2006 4:29:43 AM EST
can someone give me a link for the guncoat stuff?
Link Posted: 4/16/2006 5:18:02 AM EST
Gunkote

--Otter
Link Posted: 4/16/2006 12:50:01 PM EST
GunKoat for me - and I am a big fan of the Teflon 1600 formula.
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