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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/17/2005 8:19:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/17/2005 8:20:12 PM EDT by robpiat]
Wood has never been my friend. Metal and I have always gotten along ok, despite some minor disagreements.

I have a romy kit and some polish kits and would like to make the wood nice.

The romy kits needed to be stripped sanded?? stained?? poly'ed

The polish kits almost seem like they are bare or very light finish laminate.

Could I inconvenience one of you to kind of walk me through the process, and tell me what products to use

Do you use a stripper, solvent,sandpaper etc to remove the finsh. What types of stains, oils, polys etc.

Thanks alot.
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 11:31:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/23/2005 4:36:28 PM EDT by Zaplatus]
Hey Man,
Well I refinished my Romy wood using Chemical stripper. It strippes it down to bare wood. Once it is dry i sanded it. I then used Tung Oil to stain/finish the wood.

Process is as follows.

1 Strip with chemical Stripper.
2 Sand
3 Use lint free cloth to remove dust and such
4 Apply tung oil thin even coats.
5 Alow to dry for 12 - 24 hours
6 scrub with #0000 steel wool
7 repeat process Item # 3 - 7 untill you reach desired finish and depth.

Hope that helps man. I promise follow those direction. It will looks sharp. Takes alot of time but you can build the rifle while you are doing layer... layer.. layer of the tongue oil. This picture was done after only 4 coats of tung oil. Imagin if you did like 10-15 layers :)

Link Posted: 9/18/2005 1:31:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/18/2005 1:32:57 PM EDT by ozzy_the_nuke]
Polish are easy. Sand off any imperfections. Heat the grip with whatever is convenient; heat gun, hair dryer or the sun on a hot day. Wipe off the oil as it oozes out. When you get tired of doing this, wipe it down with denatured alcohol. Now rub it down with Kiwi Cordovan (dark maroon color) shoe polish (the stuff in a round tin). Then buff it a little. The basic idea is to get enough oil out to allow some of the shoe wax to soak in. The shoe wax seals the surface, darkens the wood a little and gives it a soft luster. You wont believe how good it looks and feels. Original, only better. I would post a picture, but it wouldnt do it justice. You have to see and feel it for yourself. Takes 30 minutes, tops.

It is also very forgiving. Handling marks dont show. If you get a surface scratch it is no big thing. Just sand it lightly and put on some new wax.

And hey, if you dont like it when you are done, you can still go through all the BS with strippers, dyes and polyurethane etc.
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 1:43:53 PM EDT
This is a 4 coat tung oil finish.
Link Posted: 9/18/2005 9:25:50 PM EDT
Tagged so I can try both methods-when I get the courage!
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 4:39:59 AM EDT
Could somebody post a pic of their polish laminated complete?
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 12:52:19 PM EDT
I'm going to do my Romy PG forearm as soon as I order an Ironwood laminated PG. I've worked with wood for years so this is really no big deal. The only question I have is, is regular Zip-Strip good for stripping the Romy laminated wood or will it dissolve the glue and delaminate the laminate? If Zip-Strip is too harsh, what works well?

Robpiat
It's hard to screw up refinishing the wood. Just strip it, LIGHTLY sand or steel-wool to smooth the wood, then stain/seal/finish with whatever you choose. Myself, I like tung oil for firearms wood. Gives the wood a low-lustre finish that still preserves the wood pretty good. Just watch the forearm. Took my SAR-1 to Bulletfest a couple years ago and got it so hot that the tung oil started, literally, boiling out of the wood forearm. Boiling tung oil hurts like HELL!!!!! Just take your time and, if you're not sure about something, ask. Someone will be glad to help you out.

Bub
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 4:59:01 PM EDT
Who knew tung oil came from a tree. Can anybody reccommend a home depot or lowes available variety. I have looked around on the net and it seems most of them are mixtures to some degree.
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 5:41:38 PM EDT
This was my SAR1. I stripped the finish off the stock then applied numerous hand rubbed coats of boiled linseed oil. I never cared for the glossy finishes.

Link Posted: 9/19/2005 6:13:44 PM EDT
whats the difference between tung oil and linseed oil?
Link Posted: 9/19/2005 7:58:02 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 3:19:52 PM EDT
I use Formsby's Tongue Oil. Works great! Good luck guys.
Link Posted: 9/22/2005 3:26:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/22/2005 3:29:23 PM EDT by ozzy_the_nuke]

Originally Posted By Zaplatus:
I use Formsby's Tongue Oil. Works great! Good luck guys.



Tongue oil. Uh, nevermind, I better not say it. Anyway. Blehk, blehk, blehk.
Link Posted: 9/23/2005 4:34:47 PM EDT
Oops Tung oil not tongue oil.

Step One - Sand
Step two - Lick again and again and again
Step three - remove splinters from tongue
repeat until you realize you should have used Tung oil instead of tonuge oil

Thanks for my spelling correction - Zap (lol)
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 10:53:24 AM EDT
Ok...got some of the formsbys from lowes...Stripped my romy furniture and dried out the polish. Put the first coat of tung oil on and so far so good. is it normal for it to haze over a bit. Do i have to buff it or something?
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 12:43:20 PM EDT
What do you mean by haze? Cloudy? How did you strip it? with a chemical stripper, or sanded it off?
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 1:50:50 PM EDT
I used a chemical stripper. Its starting to dry out and look good. I guess I need more patience!
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 7:34:52 PM EDT

Originally Posted By robpiat:
Ok...got some of the formsbys from lowes...Stripped my romy furniture and dried out the polish. Put the first coat of tung oil on and so far so good. is it normal for it to haze over a bit. Do i have to buff it or something?



You need to go over with 000 steel wool after every coat has dried. This is pretty standard for any wood finish. Make sure the finish coat is completely dry before buffing each coat, wait like 24 hours. Try 4 or more coats.
Link Posted: 9/24/2005 8:59:17 PM EDT
I stripped my Romy with Citri Strip I got at WalMart, sanded it, put a coat of medium oak stain and then applied Formby's Tung Oil finish, went up to 6 coats but it didn't need that many, actually looked pretty good after the 2nd coat, every coat made it look better, looked great at 4 coats but I went up to 6. I probably should have left the stain off, it's a bit dark.

This photo doesn't even begin to show how good this stock looks, but it does show the nice looking laminations.

Link Posted: 9/25/2005 4:15:09 PM EDT
After the prep work was done I used Minwax Red Mahogany followed by 4 coats of Tung-Oil.
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 6:40:15 PM EDT
TimDawg,
Your rifle looks great! I have two Romy kits that I've been meaning to build. Your pics are the nudge I need to get off my duff and unbury them from storage.
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 9:22:20 PM EDT
Here's the method I used with good results...

Rommy Wood Refinish
Link Posted: 9/25/2005 9:40:12 PM EDT
I happen to like shiny finishes. My process was easy and I think the results speak for themselves.
1- Use a poly remover to get all that nasty poly off.
2- Sand the living crap out of it. I used a dremel but you need to be carefull with that.
3- Soak wood in bleach water (don't know exact measurements, I just dumped the bleach in) for 3 hrs.
4- Apply desired wood stain (I used Minwax Honey Pine and red Mahogony).
5- 4 coats of Formbys Tung Oil.

There ya have it
Link Posted: 9/26/2005 9:56:45 AM EDT
Ok so heres a trick question. I have decided that the upper handguards are too dark after a couple of coats of Tung oil.

1. How do I get the gas tube out without cracking it? I see some retainers but they don't seem to budge?

2. If I soak them in bleach water do you think it will lighten them up with the tung oil in there?

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