My standard Russian cleaning kit consists of a can of brake cleaner and a can of white lithium grease (total cost, $6).  I'm wondering if the moly finish i plan to use on my build is compatable with that.

The bake on finish such as KG Industries Gun Kote and Brownells baking laquer are two I have used and once baked I haven't found anything that removed them short of blasting.

Another item I bought but never got to use as the can did not work was from Brownells:

Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethelyene. Today’s new family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents.

I had an AK-74 kit built and moly over park finish applied, not sure if it was Norrell's moly coat but it hasn't come off.

cool, i was thinking of picking up a can of brownells teflon/moly bake on finish for my build.  I just wanted to make sure my CCCP (comunist country cleaning package) wouldn't fuck it up.

Keep in mind that the baking laquers can chip if you drop them or hit them against something hard.  Over a parked finish they are more durable.  You also have to make sure every bit of oil and grease is out of the weapon before coating and you should not touch the metal with bare hands after degreasing and before coating.  Pick up some lint free cotton medical gloves from a drugstore to wear if touching the rifle before spraying.

yeah, i have plenty of gloves and brake cleaner for degreasing.

Interesting, the alumahyde is significantly cheaper than the moly finish...what are the advantages and disadvantages of either?

Break cleaner does not remove it......norrells moly resin

I have used both Norrells and Aluma Hyde II and the Norrells is head and shoulders above Aluma Hyde II.
Norrells is a little harder to apply but the finish looks much better. Aluma Hyde looks like paint. Norrelsl just makes the part look Black.  If you can sandblast then go with Norrells. If you cant go with Aluma Hyde. Keep one thing in mind Aluma Hyde is very think. Thick paint = chipping.

Hear is a great thread about refinishing. www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=118&t=255393

To answer the original question. Here is what I have found with finishes. I have only use 3. And all 3 were sand blasted to bare metal before the finish was applied.

Dupli Color header paint: Break cleaner kills it.
Aluma Hyde: Break cleaner softens it but does not remove it. When the break cleaner dries the Aluma Hyde seams to harden again.
Norrells Moly resin: Nothing hurts it. The only way to remove it is to sand blast it off.

I think some people get Brownell's Moly Telflon finish confused with Norrell's Moly Resin finish. They are not the same product.  Norrell's Moly Resin is a far superior finish and requires an airbrush to apply.  As has been mentioned, it pretty much takes a sandblaster to remove Moly Resin.  While I have never used GunKote, I have seen it on other people's rifles and it too is a very nice and durable finish.

I don't think Alumahyde II was ever intended to be used as a true over-all gun finish.  It was intended to be used over aluminum gun parts such as trigger guards on bolt action rifles and
over plastic/synthetic parts such as stocks.
It works but the baked on finishes are much better for overall refinishing.

I'm not going to do the norells stuff.  Between the moly resin and the airbrush that will double the expense of my build.  I think i'm just going to use alumahyde.  It's an AK, it doesn't need to be pretty, it just need to work

<----obviously a glock owner.

It is not that expensive....or diffilcult..
my experiance with norrell's